Lifetime Supporting Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houghton, Michigan
Rodney, my opinion: don't use the stock stuff if putting headers on. When I removed my stock H pipe with the cats welded on, the drivers side was partly plugged. If that stuff breaks off (the ceramic), it can flow into the baffles of your muffler compounding the problem. Buy the H pipe and either use the high flow cats or not(never pass emissions). Do not use the stock H and try to fit it. If you are not FI, then the cats aren't that expensive, say a hundred bucks or so. The header install is time consuming. It took me 2 days taking my time after work, say 10 hours. Not difficult, just time consuming to do right. I did not have a lift, but you will not need one. Just measure carefully like Pypes tells you and cut the pipe with a sawzall. De burr it and clamp it. The wires for the cats come with the H pipe or headers, I cannot remember. You will need these as the cats are now farther from the engine compartment where they originated from. I tell you I have never seen headers designed like these. Every obstruction has 1/2-1 inch clearance. Amazing fit. The cats do tuck right up that you really don't know they are there.
Former owner of 6010.
2011 Mustang GT
Mods: JBA ss ceramic coated 1 7/8 headers with HF cats and stock axlebacks. Roush 2300 TVS supercharger with upgraded fuel delivery (47lb injectors, boost-a-pump, H0 plugs). Dyno'd 591 RWHP(w/stock exhaust). Boss oil cooler. Exedy 500 clutch w/billit steel flywheel. Whiteline rear LCAs, Tokico D-spec adjustable shocks/struts, BMR watts link and relocation brackets. Ford Racing "P" springs. DS shop carbon fiber driveshaft.
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