Dyno after adding headers - Page 3 - IMBOC
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by olds350 View Post
So I have a dumb question.... Where do the cats get located after you install the long tubes? From what I've seen while under the car, the cats are located in front of the firewall. Do they get located underneath the car now? How does that work w/ a lowered car? Speed bumps are not friendly around here...
LT Headers are {NOT} Friendly at all when Lowered with any sort of "Speed-Bumps".

Here are many Pictures of what they look like from the bottom.
























































Terry


Brenspeed Talks about a Long Term 1,000 at the Crank H/P Project and Dream Car.

Click on Video Link below to see it on the DYNO
with
it making a Full Blown, Wide-Open, Drive-By.


http://www.stangtv.com/news/video-brenspeed-talks-about-long-term-projects-and-dream-cars/

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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by crow magnum View Post
Nelson which headers are you using and we're u able to use your h pipe unlike black fink?
I do as much of the work on my Bullitt as possible myself. I used Pypes headers after thoroughly researching it. They I truly cannot imagine a better fitting header. I used the off road Pypes H with the Pypes hi flow metallic cats which are designed for FI applications. To use the Pypes setup you have to "cut and clamp". Well, I did that and it was perfect. When I was at Brenspeed for a custom tune in Sept, I had them welded, but in retrospect I wish I hadn't as I added MBRP resonators this fall. The cut and clamp is nothing like the old days. The process using band clamps is excellent, not like those crappy old horseshoe clamps. I would use the Pypes again in a minute. Don't know if they are China or not, but with the issues I've read about with Kooks, I am very pleased with the results. Re-use the factory Ford exhaust manifold metal gaskets, DO NOT use the header gaskets. The machining is so good that you want steel, not crappy asbestos junk like the old header days. BTW the cats are barely noticeable with a lowered car. No worries there!

Former owner of 6010.
2011 Mustang GT
Mods: JBA ss ceramic coated 1 7/8 headers with HF cats and stock axlebacks. Roush 2300 TVS supercharger with upgraded fuel delivery (47lb injectors, boost-a-pump, H0 plugs). Dyno'd 591 RWHP(w/stock exhaust). Boss oil cooler. Exedy 500 clutch w/billit steel flywheel. Whiteline rear LCAs, Tokico D-spec adjustable shocks/struts, BMR watts link and relocation brackets. Ford Racing "P" springs. DS shop carbon fiber driveshaft.
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 06:26 PM
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Thanks for the pics Terry. That makes sense. So it looks like part of the midpipe needs to be cut and the cats relocated. What about the wiring for the O2 sensors? Do the stock ones still work? What is a rough price to have the work done for the cat relocate? I'm guessing maybe $100 for that work.

So if you install a set of headers yourself, how the heck do you get it up the shop for the final fab work? Seems the mid pipe would be removed and you'd have active O2 sensors. Hummmm.....

Rodney, 5386. Mods: Brembo front brakes, Raxiom rear LED lights, Raxiom infotainment center, AM AMR wheels, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach sways, Detroit Torsen true track diff, Vogtland/Ford FRPP springs, CS front bumper, AutoMeter gauge pod, VDO gauges and some other stuff...

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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by olds350 View Post
Thanks for the pics Terry. That makes sense. So it looks like part of the midpipe needs to be cut and the cats relocated. What about the wiring for the O2 sensors? Do the stock ones still work? What is a rough price to have the work done for the cat relocate? I'm guessing maybe $100 for that work.

So if you install a set of headers yourself, how the heck do you get it up the shop for the final fab work? Seems the mid pipe would be removed and you'd have active O2 sensors. Hummmm.....
I think you are now talking with Bob as I don't work on my Bullitt Mustang.

Can't be of assistance on actual turning of wrenches.

I can tell you if a Mustang (S-197) is lowered a lot you better be extremely careful what you drive over.
(With LT headers)


Terry


Brenspeed Talks about a Long Term 1,000 at the Crank H/P Project and Dream Car.

Click on Video Link below to see it on the DYNO
with
it making a Full Blown, Wide-Open, Drive-By.


http://www.stangtv.com/news/video-brenspeed-talks-about-long-term-projects-and-dream-cars/

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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 07:06 PM
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Rodney, my opinion: don't use the stock stuff if putting headers on. When I removed my stock H pipe with the cats welded on, the drivers side was partly plugged. If that stuff breaks off (the ceramic), it can flow into the baffles of your muffler compounding the problem. Buy the H pipe and either use the high flow cats or not(never pass emissions). Do not use the stock H and try to fit it. If you are not FI, then the cats aren't that expensive, say a hundred bucks or so. The header install is time consuming. It took me 2 days taking my time after work, say 10 hours. Not difficult, just time consuming to do right. I did not have a lift, but you will not need one. Just measure carefully like Pypes tells you and cut the pipe with a sawzall. De burr it and clamp it. The wires for the cats come with the H pipe or headers, I cannot remember. You will need these as the cats are now farther from the engine compartment where they originated from. I tell you I have never seen headers designed like these. Every obstruction has 1/2-1 inch clearance. Amazing fit. The cats do tuck right up that you really don't know they are there.

Former owner of 6010.
2011 Mustang GT
Mods: JBA ss ceramic coated 1 7/8 headers with HF cats and stock axlebacks. Roush 2300 TVS supercharger with upgraded fuel delivery (47lb injectors, boost-a-pump, H0 plugs). Dyno'd 591 RWHP(w/stock exhaust). Boss oil cooler. Exedy 500 clutch w/billit steel flywheel. Whiteline rear LCAs, Tokico D-spec adjustable shocks/struts, BMR watts link and relocation brackets. Ford Racing "P" springs. DS shop carbon fiber driveshaft.
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 08:01 PM

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So what's the opinion of shorty headers I read. That brk showed similar performance results as long tube.im just sayin I read about it.


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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 09:27 PM

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Over 30K on my Kooks Longtube headers and no problems going over speed bumps (lowered on Sportlines). I would never drive over a speed bump like if was a pick up truck anyway, even if it was at stock ride height.These headers fit so well and are so easy install it worth to swap out for a quick emissions test when needed.

2008 Bullitt 0073,Eibach Sportlines, Ford Racing shocks/struts. Steeda strut mounts with Eibach camber bolts, adjustable panhard bar,SCT tune,Brenspeed NA Detroit Rocker cams,Kooks Long-tube headers with catted x-pipe, Borla Touring AB, Vortech V3 air to air intercooled. BMR Relocation brackets. Ford Racing front control arms. Whiteline rear lowers, Roush short throw, Whiteline bump-steer kit. Steeda UCA. SR Adjustable sway bar links, AM Saleen style 5 spokes. Ford Racing sway bars.
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 09:56 PM

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That's like the old days we all had h pipes with header flanges on either end so we could make a quick change emissions run.lol


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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 10:02 PM

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I've had my Kook's headers with Kook's hi-flow cats and mid pipe for over 18 months, and with Steeda Sport springs (approx 1" drop) I've had no clearance issues with the cats. Overall I am very satisfied with the results in power gains and sound, and I kept the stock Bullitt mufflers.

The only problem I have had is with the car throwing codes. The ECU just does not like the high flow cats. When I had the car tuned I added the spacers to the O2 sensors and had Brenspeed include a tune that turned off the rear sensors.
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