Engine Tick? - Page 3 - IMBOC
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post #31 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 10:59 AM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothy Kiely View Post
I asked about the oils possibly having some kind of addative in the oil during the initial break in. I have heard in one of the many postings on one of these sites that there may be some truth to that, but who knows.
Tim, yes the cars have a break-in oil. Break-in oil is not something that comes straight out of a bottle. When the engine is assembled, they use assembly lube on several critical parts. Once the engine runs the first time, the oil circulating through the engine picks up the assembly lube additives and that creates the break-in oil.
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post #32 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 08:03 PM
 
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Hi,
Just got my new 19 Bullitt delivered but unfortunately it will have to ”sleep” in my garage until the snow is gone in a couple of months.
This discussion about engine tick and other noises reminds me of my Porsche 911 (997) with the Messger twin turbo. This engine was originally concived for racing and is famous for beeing absolutely bullitproof (. The idle noise from this engine is terrible. At least the first time you hear it, after a while you actually come to like it as part of its ”personality”. Its hard to describe but it sounds like a can full of nuts and bolts that you rattle. And on top of this a special tick that varies with rpm.
Of course when you drive it hard the fantastic roar is all you hear but at idle its not what you would expect from a supercar.
So, as long as there are no issues connected with ticks and other noises from the Bullitt engine I will not be worried. There are a lot of things going on in modern engines and some noise may not be beautiful but still sign of a reliable piece of engineering.
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post #33 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 11:21 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Einar View Post
Hi,
Just got my new 19 Bullitt delivered but unfortunately it will have to ”sleep” in my garage until the snow is gone in a couple of months.
This discussion about engine tick and other noises reminds me of my Porsche 911 (997) with the Messger twin turbo. This engine was originally concived for racing and is famous for beeing absolutely bullitproof (<img src="https://www.imboc.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />. The idle noise from this engine is terrible. At least the first time you hear it, after a while you actually come to like it as part of its ”personality”. Its hard to describe but it sounds like a can full of nuts and bolts that you rattle. And on top of this a special tick that varies with rpm.
Of course when you drive it hard the fantastic roar is all you hear but at idle its not what you would expect from a supercar.
So, as long as there are no issues connected with ticks and other noises from the Bullitt engine I will not be worried. There are a lot of things going on in modern engines and some noise may not be beautiful but still sign of a reliable piece of engineering.
Actually that does remind me of the two 996 Boxsters I once had. One was a daily driver that was driven very hard for almost 200,000 miles. The insulation blanket was missing from the engine cover so I could hear the engine a bit more from inside. It had a fair amount of valvetrain chatter, fuel system clicks, and intake whine.
They both had little minor ticks and rattles you could hear from the outside when cold.
They also fell under the so called “dreaded IMS bearing” that supposedly had a design flaw that would kill the engine if it failed.
There was so much internet doomsaying hype over this that lots of 996-997 owners got paranoid that their car was a ticking time bomb ready to explode anytime!
Ultimately less than 3% of the engines ever failed over several model years, and my two well used Boxsters were solid as a rock and never let me down.
That’s why I’m going to try not to worry about my 5.0 until there’s an issue with it, if there ever is.
I have a 10 year 100,000 mile bumper to bumper, and free engines for life from my dealer to further ease my mind.
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post #34 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 10:17 AM
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Good campaign slogan. Vote for ........., engines for life!


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post #35 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 07:51 AM
 
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Update:
The 2019 Bullitt still sounds quiet at idle and cruising, but at nearly 1400 miles the feint diesel clatter at 2000 rpm is quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
It’s really getting me depressed.
Still, the earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car (which is a 2003 Mustang GT with 162,000 miles and NO ticks or rattles at all). Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements.
Hopefully the shop will turn up noninternal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.
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post #36 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 10:40 AM
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I hope the dealer can solve the issue to your satisfaction.


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post #37 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 03:29 PM

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Not sure if anyone has posted this video, or if this guy even knows what he is talking about, but this came up in my youtube feed (wasn't even looking for it)
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post #38 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 08:05 PM
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There's a lot of stuff "ticking." The trick is knowing what is bad.
Cut open your oil filter, especially after the first oil change. Tony sends his oil for analysis, me likey.
It wouldn't hurt to run 5W30 oil in the warm weather. As previously stated, I prefer Full synthetic oil.
He referenced piston slap. Pistons are not perfectly round when cold. As the engine warms, they swell, becoming rounder. A little piston slap when cold is not terrible since the skirts are usually coated or machined to be "slippy;" as long as it quiets down when the engine reaches operating temperature.
I had a Subaru that had cold piston slap from day one and we drove it 14 years, before the body returned to mother earth.
In summary; DI pumps, injectors, cam phasers, mechanical noises, OK. Metal in the oil, low oil pressure, high oil consumption, loud noises that don't go away; cause for concern. Remember, two engines in one!
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post #39 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 09:50 AM
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This is a more specific video that was posted on Mustang6g if you are experiencing similar to what Retroman1969 is hearing (I also have it too). The bottom line theory in this video is that manufacturing variances in the block and pistons, especially with the spray bore technology in use, are resulting in a noise, especially because of the expansion rate of an aluminum block. Those of us who were on here when the first Bullitt model came out might remember something called the "death rattle" back in the day. If memory serves, the piston material would expand when warmed up and it would go away, or in some cases, it didn't. I could be wrong about that because I didn't go back and look in the '01 sections. I actually joined this forum because I had a '00 GT at the time that had this rattle noise.


Retroman1969, don't jump ship yet!! I am going to hang in there with this car because this noise aside, it's been phenomenal. By the way, I do let my '19 warm up for a couple of minutes (never thought I'd be doing that again, and yes, I know it's not good for the environment). By the way, as compelling as this sounds, the other theory about the cam tensioners is still out there too. Again, until Ford release any formal information, take this with a grain of salt and don't let it scare you away!


Bullitt4404, thanks for your summarzation of what to really watch out for, based on your mechanic experience.



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post #40 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 12:31 PM

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My '01 Bullitt had that "Death Rattle" when cold. It went away after I retuned it with a custom tune. Go figure?
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post #41 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 11:44 PM
 
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Thank you guys very much for your input!
I may or may not have an issue, but I think I know why I’m noticing it more.
We had an unusually warm day yesterday in the 70s. All day the car didn’t make the rattle noise (or it was too faint to hear), even when taking off immediately from a cold start in the morning. No engine bay sounds. Just that miraculous exhaust note.
It was unusually warm for the first few weeks I owned the car, but in the past two or three weeks we went through a cold spell, in the 20s and 30s mostly. That’s when I started noticing the rattle.
I’ll let you know what the inspection turns up at the dealer.
I’m also going to see if using a heavier weight oil (maybe at least 5w30 instead of, what, the 0-20 they’re using now?) will have any effect on the warranty. &#x1f609;
I looked at other new pony cars, but they don’t come close for my taste. I’m not jumping ship yet. &#x1f609;
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post #42 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 06:48 AM

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I'll be very curious to hear what the dealer tells you regarding oil weight and warranty.
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post #43 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 12:25 PM
 
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I’ll definitely let you know. &#x1f609;
She’s going in first thing in the morning.

PS: This video just popped up on my YouTube page to remind me that these hi-tech high performance cars are just plain more susceptible to quirks and issues than a basic Civic or Carolla no matter the make or model.
https://youtu.be/_If_p9ApY40
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post #44 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 04:57 PM

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I had a 2005 F-150 FX-4 that I dearly loved but ticked constantly from 48,000 mile on. It drove me nuts until the day I traded it. It had the three valve engine. The only reason I traded it was because the transmission was going out in it. I was really disappointed in the truck not lasting as long as I felt it should. It was never run hard and was always driven on the highway. It only had 120,000 mile on it when I had to trade it because of the Transmission. It would have been $8500 to replace the transmission. I got $6000 on trade it for it and bought a RAM. That only last 120,000 miles as well. Maybe it's me but I have never had any good luck with trucks lasting. I have put 270,000 miles on cars. I take care of all my vehicles.
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post #45 of 78 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Maran View Post
I'll be very curious to hear what the dealer tells you regarding oil weight and warranty.
That's an interesting question Matt. I would think, if you live in southern Arizona, Texas, they might question your warranty if you didn't use 5w30 (nom. rating @18 F to 105 F.) After all, the GT 350 uses 5w50 full synthetic as factory fill. I would think, that as long as your oil meets the Ford spec., and you are operating in the temperature range for that grade?
If it's 120 F outside, 5w20 isn't going to give you max protection, since it's rated nominally @ 18 F to 85 F.


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