19 Bullit trackprep Pt-3, Brakes - IMBOC
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Talking 19 Bullit trackprep Pt-3, Brakes

What's new in brakes? Before I zero in on the new Bullit, some new stuff. First, there's an additional brake fluid called Super DOT 4. It has a raised boiling point of about 40 F, bringing the dry boiling point to ~540 F. The stock Bullit Ford brake fluid is a good grade of DOT 4 with BP of 505 F.
Most racing DOT 4's are up around 600 F (Motul, Stop Tech, etc) If you are tracking your car I suggest you flush and refresh your fluid on a regular basis. The Super DOT 4 is a good choice and not a lot more expensive than regular DOT 4. If you use "racing fluid," flush it well and go back to regular DOT 4 for street use. The racing fluids tend to be quite harsh and are harder on seals in your brake system.
Brake pads: The new Bullit has big azz brakes and pads. If you are going to use the stock pads, I suggest you heat cycle the pads. Go out for a first session or a twisty road run, and run the car to moderate speed and use the brakes firmly, repeatedly, get them well heated up. Return to home base or the pits and let the brakes cool off. Don't use your parking brake, or you could warp the rear rotors. It's not uncommon for the pads to smoke a bit and smell after a heat cycling and this will stabilize the resins and give the pads more consistent stopping power.
If you are using competition style pads, follow the bedding in procedures in the instructions. For street and lapping I like the Hawk HPS, HPS 5.0 or EBC yellow stuff. Any pure racing pad is going to be sketchy on the street because they need quite a bit more heat to be effective. Any more aggressive pads will increase rotor wear.
Cooling: I suggest you remove the dust shields and replace the front shields with a tie rod end heat shield. Front cooling ducts are an option if you are serious about your track work. You can always put the shields back on later.
A couple of notes: It is not uncommon on multiple piston brake calipers for the pads to wear on a bit of an angle.
Check your rotor temperatures after each session. If the rotor temps are close to the BP of your brake fluid, you need to be careful. If the fluid starts to boil, the brake pedal will get very soft and you need to come in ASAP.
You can avoid overheating your brakes by alternating hot laps with a cool off lap. Check your rotors frequently for signs of stress cracks or overheating. Your can buy temperature paints for the edge of your rotors which will indicate what temps you are running at a glance.
When buying pads or rotors, buy at least Ford spec minimum, and don't use cheap generic products. That Bullit is 480 HP and 4000 LBs, that's a lot of energy to slow down. Be safe, have fun.
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Last edited by bullit4404; 02-02-2019 at 01:48 PM.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 01:53 PM
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Well written and thought out.

"Whoa" ability is more important to me than "go" ability on a road race course...more passing done by outbraking than by horsepower. I still feel that way even though I haven't been on a track in decades. Those with '19 Bullitts are pretty fortunate when it comes to "whoa".
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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So right Paul. I remember my first race cars with tiny brakes that were good for maybe 3 laps before they'd start fading. Ford is prudent in equipping these "race" caliber cars with decent stoppers.
Once the race is started, and all things being equal, great brakes and a brave heart will earn the checkered flag. And common sense will get you home in one piece.


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