Complete Track setup, S-197, 05-14 - Page 2 - IMBOC
 40Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 02:46 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
tossass4370's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tallahassee FL
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: HG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4370
Posts: 463
On upgrading the S197 front brakes, Steve is totally correct on using the GT 11-14 front caliper bracket and rotors. Just install a new caliper bracket, larger rotors, keep your calipers and use the Bullitt OEM rims. Minimal cost. UHP summer tyres, drive Bullitt to the track, run it and drive home, all on the same wheels. Compatible with OEM anti-lock system, more brake torque, 2" GREATER heat sink (which a rotor is) and avoids the law of unintended consequences of vehicle modification. Less cost for pads and rotors. Take the front (and rear) dust shields off, they just hold heat and prevent cooler air from getting to the rotor insides. Put a set of GT500 front tie rod heat shields on instead. Save the tie rod bushings.
Perfect for HPDE Beginners and Novice Solo.

The next step is front cooling ducts. For novice solo to intermediate, look at the JLT 2.5" duct kit. It is perfect for HPDE. Nice front intake bezels. 2.5" duct is much easier to work with and JLT brake duct plate can be installed in conjunction with the GT500 tie rod shields. Others with 3"-4" ducts will claim greater air flow and closer tolerance to the rotor, but we are not racing, just gentleman enjoying speed together.

The above is perfect for a HPDE road course Beginner, Novice Solo and Intermediate.

OK, the Brembo 14" package is where the law of unintended consequences of vehicle modification takes control. It is where the track addiction takes control. Brembo, 4 piston instead of 2. Much bigger pad contact surface. Compatible with OEM antilock brake system. Beautiful black Brembo calipers. Dive deeper into turns and brake harder. But-

Cannot run Bullitt OEM rims, unless change to Ford Racing front hubs with ARP studs and 1" spacers. Only .25 ounce low profile wheel weights on outside line of Bullitt rims. For show and cruising, I run the Bullitt rims as set up above.
My mechanic will not sign off for a track event with 1" spacers, even the ARP. And every millimeter of tyre grip is critical. So, another set of rims For road course track, without spacers, Ford Racing 18/9.5 rims from the American Iron racing specs, which clear the Brembos without spacers. Still have to be picky on placing the .25 wheel weights on the rim outside line. So, another set of rims, with UHP Summer 300 UTOG or less tyres.

And another consequence of 14" Brembo with Bullitt rims on 1" spacers. Tracking at highway speed and rains sucks. Cause the rear end width is still OEM, now an inch narrower than front. This damn law of unintended consequences of vehicle modification!

How has BLLTT evolved now? Rear end upgrade. GT500 rear brake brackets using OEM calipers with 13.8" rotors. Hell of a heat sink, needed cause I run with the traction control on (computer is faster than me and BLLTT is prone to oversteer from solid rear axle). ARP studs, for 7/8" spacers for Bullitt rims for cruise and show and no spacers for track rims. Had to open differential and remove axles to install the caliper brackets. New seals, bearings. OEM L/S was slipping on turns. Boss Leguna Seca Torsen differential. Rebuild pinion, keeping OEM 3.73. The only thing old in the rear axle is the housing.

Results- 2 days last week at Charlotte Motor Speedway, running the new NASCAR roval.
Love the Torsen diff!Smooth in turns, no lurching like the OEM LS. Quieter on the interstate. LOVE the GT500 rear brakes. After cool down lap, rear rotors were 20-30 degree F hotter than front, instead of previous 50-80 F. And less nose dive in hard braking and better trail braking. Saved BLLTT when a crashed BMW came across the track line ahead of BLLTT on a blind downhill turn.
Bullitt HPDE are gentlemen learning driving skills, enjoying speed, playing nice together. Racing is when the driver is willing to drive their car off a cliff for a trophy.
bullit4404 likes this.
tossass4370 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 02:59 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
tossass4370's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tallahassee FL
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: HG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4370
Posts: 463
PS- Got 2 great runs at Charlotte Motor Speedway with a gentleman DRIVING a SN95 Cobra N/A. After we let the GT350's, Corvettes and others by, for 2 sessions we had FUN together. We were equal on the infield turns and BLLTT was just a touch faster on the straights. After each session, we congratulated each other. That is what HPDE is!
bullit4404 likes this.
tossass4370 is offline  
post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 03:20 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
tossass4370's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tallahassee FL
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: HG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4370
Posts: 463
BLLTT's interweb crew chief is Pat (bullit4404). Bullitt University is GREAT. I use EBC brake pads, currently the Yellow Stuff. Great for street and track. Quiet on street and have not yet found the cooking temp on track. Dust is easy to remove for show. Have used the Blue Stuff on track-even a better bite at speed than Yellow, but softer in terms of lasting before replacement. Yellows are a good balance for track addicts who also show and cruise. Yellows are gentler on rotors than Hawk HP+. And Hawk HP+ have a hard to remove dust, noisy on street temps and have rear rivets on the springs that fail. (Cost me rear caliper, pad and rotor the night before a track event.)

But the ceramic Red Stuff are not for road courses. Great for show and daily drivers with minimal dust and great street grip. But I cooked a set as a beginner at Sebring, outside of pad looked fine, but inside where pistons pressed were gone. EBC then sent me a free set of Yellow Pads.
bullit4404 likes this.

Last edited by tossass4370; 04-23-2018 at 03:34 AM.
tossass4370 is offline  
 
post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
Supporting Member
 
bullit4404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nobel Ontario Canada
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4404
Posts: 2,449
Nice replies Bill. Sounds like you've got your car dialed in!
Pat


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
In my defense, I was left unsupervised.
bullit4404 is online now  
post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
Supporting Member
 
bullit4404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nobel Ontario Canada
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4404
Posts: 2,449
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by tossass4370 View Post
Bullitt HPDE are gentlemen learning driving skills, enjoying speed, playing nice together. Racing is when the driver is willing to drive their car off a cliff for a trophy.
Racing is when you are driving someone else's car, and you are expected to drive it off a cliff in order to win.
"Drive it like you stole it," more like "drive it like there's another one in the trailer."
tossass4370 likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
In my defense, I was left unsupervised.
bullit4404 is online now  
post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 09:57 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manhattan, KS
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: HG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4492
Posts: 1,073
Here's my "next step":



A couple of things on what and why I did it. First of all, I managed to stuff 3" ducting in there. I'm sure 2.5" would have been sufficient, but the 3" ducting was minimally more expensive and I built it myself, so there was no "premium" for the larger ducting beyond material cost. As you can see, the rotor is actually uncovered and the air is directed toward the center of the rotor. The reason for doing this is that the air is able to cool the entire rotor rather than just one part of one side. The air is all drawn/forced through the vents in the rotor rather than directed at only the inside surfaces. There is theoretically less temperature difference across the rotor and therefore less chance of warpage than if you're directing air at only one spot on one side of the rotor. One other thing you can see (at least partially) is the ball joint shield that Bill was talking about. This prevents the ball joint rubber from getting direct heat from the rotor. I'm pulling air through the lower grille where I modified it by opening up holes toward the outside of the insert where there are conveniently openings in the front bumper cover. It's fairly crude underneath, but it's not really noticeable from the outside.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'08 Bullitt DHG #4492
'68 Cougar 289/4-speed
Steve68Cougar is offline  
post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Supporting Member
 
bullit4404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nobel Ontario Canada
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4404
Posts: 2,449
Nicely done! That should work super. That's how we did them on the race cars. The NASCAR boys use like 3 hoses with fans on road courses, two for the brakes and one to keep the rim cool. They can only use 15" wheels so they have to get rid of a lot of heat. They use wide rotors and pads that are super thick and rated to like 1700 F.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
In my defense, I was left unsupervised.
bullit4404 is online now  
post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 01:26 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
tossass4370's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tallahassee FL
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: HG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4370
Posts: 463
Steve-Excellent work there on the brake ducts and ball joint shields. We both ended up with the same result. Do your shields 360 cover the rotor vents. The JLT are about 180 on the rotor vents. The rotor brake surface is open on mine.
I used the same opening on the bumper cover for the intake, just it is covered by a billet grill (got tired of cleaning the honeycomb).
Since install, I have found less early spider cracking and longer rotor life.
bullit4404 likes this.
tossass4370 is offline  
post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 09:25 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
edtrae03130's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Casselberry, Florida
Bullitt Year: 01
Bullitt Color: Dark Highland Green
Bullitt Serialized Number: 03130
Posts: 2,970
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve68Cougar View Post
Here's my "next step":



A couple of things on what and why I did it. First of all, I managed to stuff 3" ducting in there. I'm sure 2.5" would have been sufficient, but the 3" ducting was minimally more expensive and I built it myself, so there was no "premium" for the larger ducting beyond material cost. As you can see, the rotor is actually uncovered and the air is directed toward the center of the rotor. The reason for doing this is that the air is able to cool the entire rotor rather than just one part of one side. The air is all drawn/forced through the vents in the rotor rather than directed at only the inside surfaces. There is theoretically less temperature difference across the rotor and therefore less chance of warpage than if you're directing air at only one spot on one side of the rotor. One other thing you can see (at least partially) is the ball joint shield that Bill was talking about. This prevents the ball joint rubber from getting direct heat from the rotor. I'm pulling air through the lower grille where I modified it by opening up holes toward the outside of the insert where there are conveniently openings in the front bumper cover. It's fairly crude underneath, but it's not really noticeable from the outside.
Very cool have you thought of making them for the 01s. i need to do this on mine.
bullit4404 likes this.

Bullitt 3130 has a few modifications mostly suspension and braking work for the fun twisty roads. and an teenage(15) female Mechanic who wants to track her car.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edtrae03130 is offline  
post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
Supporting Member
 
bullit4404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nobel Ontario Canada
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4404
Posts: 2,449
Ed
Sometime, if you have a minute, reply here as to what you've done to your car for the track so far?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
In my defense, I was left unsupervised.
bullit4404 is online now  
post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 04:45 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
edtrae03130's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Casselberry, Florida
Bullitt Year: 01
Bullitt Color: Dark Highland Green
Bullitt Serialized Number: 03130
Posts: 2,970
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullit4404 View Post
Ed
Sometime, if you have a minute, reply here as to what you've done to your car for the track so far?
On my 01 i have slotted rotors and EBC yellow stuff pads, Stainless steel brake lines, 18" Saleen replica wheels. Hankook tires. the suspension i have Bilsteins all around, BMR rear lower control arms. Timspeed rear upper control arms. (brackets welded in like the ford racing ones) BMR spherical rear differential bushings. Still running the stock sway bars and springs. 373 Gears and JLT cold air intake. Hurst short throw shifter, M.M. caster camber plates, Spec Clutch that i hate and will be replacing soon. Steeda g force bar rear shock bar. other than that basically stock. want to get a harness bar for the car and redo the driver seat as it is showing wear.
bullit4404 likes this.

Bullitt 3130 has a few modifications mostly suspension and braking work for the fun twisty roads. and an teenage(15) female Mechanic who wants to track her car.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edtrae03130 is offline  
post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
Supporting Member
 
bullit4404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nobel Ontario Canada
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4404
Posts: 2,449
Thanks, sounds like a good set up! Haven't heard much good about Spec clutches.
You should find out who makes the clutches for the twin disc unit in the new GT and Bullit? mcleod??


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
In my defense, I was left unsupervised.
bullit4404 is online now  
post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 05:38 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manhattan, KS
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: HG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4492
Posts: 1,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by edtrae03130 View Post
Very cool have you thought of making them for the 01s. i need to do this on mine.
I haven't really thought of doing any others. I was fortunate enough to have access to a CAD program and a laser cutter, so getting them designed and the pieces cut out wasn't too difficult. The trickiest part was getting the 3" tube crushed to the obround shape without destroying the roundness on the end the hose gets connected to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tossass4370 View Post
Steve-Excellent work there on the brake ducts and ball joint shields. We both ended up with the same result. Do your shields 360 cover the rotor vents. The JLT are about 180 on the rotor vents. The rotor brake surface is open on mine.
I used the same opening on the bumper cover for the intake, just it is covered by a billet grill (got tired of cleaning the honeycomb).
Since install, I have found less early spider cracking and longer rotor life.
Here's a picture of when it was in the prototype stage (cut out paper pieces from printouts):



The shield covers approximately the same area that the factory shield did, minus the cover directly over the braking surface. It's basically everything minus the area the brake caliper takes up. I ended up making the ball joint shield a little bit smaller than what my prototype was. I tried to get the lip as close to the rotor surface as I could without making contact when it flexes. So far I haven't noticed any rubbing.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'08 Bullitt DHG #4492
'68 Cougar 289/4-speed
Steve68Cougar is offline  
post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
Supporting Member
 
bullit4404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nobel Ontario Canada
Bullitt Year: 08
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 4404
Posts: 2,449
Nice job, you are quite the fabricator.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
In my defense, I was left unsupervised.
bullit4404 is online now  
post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 07:16 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
greenbull4439's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: houston tx
Bullitt Year: 01
Bullitt Color: DHG
Bullitt Serialized Number: 04439
Posts: 938
Complete track setup? You mean 17 year old hardware from ford right?

Yall have me thinking I need to spend my $1000 on upgrading my car instead of signing up to run Circuit of the Americas.

Better get out of here before my run it like you brung it mentality wears off LOL!

68k miles. 5.0 shifter, drop in K&N, 17x8 black bullitts, DHG pony in grille


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
greenbull4439 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the IMBOC forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome