Clutch or Coolant. - IMBOC
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter

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Clutch or Coolant.

Hey folks...
I have been smelling what I think is coolant when I shift my Bullitt... once I am through shifting and cruising in 5 th for just a sec or two, coolant smell is gone. I have started the car and let it warm up with heat on no smell, while driving in 5th turned the heat on and no smell. Any thoughts.?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 07:49 PM
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Check under the dash, right side, coolant smell should be evident. Is coolant level going down, or is the heater by pass valve leaking or cracked. (common)
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter

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Checked under dash passenger side dry... no leaks on the shop floor...checked under hood, coolant level seemed fine, no wet spots by any of the heater hoses or their respective connections. My biggest head scratcher is why I just smell only after rowing through the gears... and not always. The car only has 27xxx miles on it as well.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 09:17 PM
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The heater core may be leaking a bit and when you accelerate the coolant may get in the HVAC air stream. I think the clutch on the 01's is cable operated, so no fluid there, but the master cylinder for the brakes could weep inside. Check your brake fluid as well.
Coolant smells quite sweet, while brake fluid is more bitter. Good luck.


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter

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Will check master cylinder next...will having a pressure check on the coolant system show where the leak is located?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 11:01 PM
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Yes, it will pin point the leak, you might even hear it. Car is 18 years old and heater valves, connections, and heater cores do fail over time regardless of mileage. You can add fluorescent die to the coolant and it will help locate the leak. See parts store for leak detector. Let us know how it turns out?
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 11:15 PM
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some of the bullitts for 01 had a "T" fitting part of the pcv system, passenger side rear you will see it. plastic, they crack and leak.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 08:07 AM Thread Starter

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I will see if I can pick up the tool to check the system today. What bullit4404 said about coolant leaking upon acceleration makes some sense but wouldn’t I then smell it continuously? Serpent I have one of those t-fittings on my Bullitt but everything I can see and touch in the engine compartment is dry. I appreciate the suggestions you guys have offered and I will certainly let you know what I find.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 09:13 AM

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Originally Posted by bullit4404 View Post
The heater core may be leaking a bit and when you accelerate the coolant may get in the HVAC air stream. I think the clutch on the 01's is cable operated, so no fluid there, but the master cylinder for the brakes could weep inside. Check your brake fluid as well.
Coolant smells quite sweet, while brake fluid is more bitter. Good luck.
01's are cable operated.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 10:08 AM Thread Starter

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My original thoughts were heater core until I started driving her a bunch this summer... was only smelling as I rowed through the gears and the smell left. Most everything I read online suggested that when a clutch wears or is on its final leg it has a burning smell. Just seems very odd...
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 10:25 AM

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Yes the clutch does create a smell when it starts slipping. In addition to a smell, you should notice that while the engine is speeding up the car is not gaining speed as fast, indicating the clutch is slipping and not transferring the power to the wheels. You can normally notice this more in a higher gear where you step on the gas and the engine speeds up but the car does not.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter

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Just got back from autozone... had to leave almost 300 dollar deposit to borrow the powerbuilt tool to pressurize my system... the twist on cap which seemed to fit best leaked at it’s base. There were a few rubber style fitting that you push in and twist to tighten, wouldn’t hold past 10 lbs before spewing antifreeze all over my engine compartment, twice. After lunch I will make the almost 40 mile round trip to return autozone’s tool and try advanced auto. If it is the heater core will this test cause it to leak so that I will know for sure? Appreciate all the responses folks.
Keith
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 02:28 PM Thread Starter

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The saga continues... just got back from advance auto parts... guess what? Borrowed the same powerbuilt tool from them. I tried the yellow #4 cap and the black #25 cap and neither one would pressure. Now, I am looking for a silver lining here... is it possible the leak is at the overflow tank and I am getting air into the cabin from under the hood? If so, how can I verify. The last thing I want to do is to start chasing my tail around throwing good money after bad. Any help would be great. Anyone used the powerbuilt system maybe could tell me if they had luck with either the yellow or black cap? Also, after I hand tightened as tight as I could, I put the channel locks on for a few more twists.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 03:43 PM
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I always use the Stant system. It has separate caps for each neck type. No fun to have to wrestle the test equipment.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter

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Both of these kits had 12-18 caps and fittings... the two that would work I couldn’t get to seat without leaking air and I even applied Teflon tape.
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