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Bad Ass Bullitt 03-13-2019 08:57 PM

Mods?
 
After owning the Bullitt since '09 I'm ready to do some up grades. Got the KR mufflers today, looking at the 62mm TB and FR Hot Rod Cams. Which is the better Brenspeed SCT Tuner or the FR Pro Cal? Any suggestion's/advice suspension is next but not now.

bullit4404 03-13-2019 09:41 PM

Don't know about tuners, but highly recommend the Ford Performance adjustable suspension package. Nice matching set up with about 1" drop. See American Muscle.
I used the FP tuner from their performance pack, worked great.

mrt2you 03-14-2019 07:21 AM

i don't know what your goals are.
but in my OPINION the best way to start modding a car is with the brakes first, you have to stop first before you go fast. then suspension mods to make it handle, more fun per $$$ spent. you might enjoy driving the car this way and stop modding. if not then start modding the motor to go faster.

sganow 03-14-2019 12:47 PM

I think the SCT would be the better option because you can just get an updated tune as you add mods. I believe the ProCal is not as flexible.

Steve68Cougar 03-14-2019 06:29 PM

Before you do any power upgrades (or pretty much anything else), I'd highly recommend getting a set of lower control arms from your favorite supplier. If you don't already have wheel hop you'll get it after any power upgrades. LCA's were my first mod. I've also done the '11-'14 GT brake upgrade on the front (the one where it just takes a different bracket and a slightly larger rotor), a one-piece driveshaft, and the Ford Racing adjustable suspension. I still haven't done any power upgrades - yet.

Iceman62 03-17-2019 07:04 AM

^^^YES^^^

LCA's are a MUST & recommend Brenspeed for your tuning support. They're awesome to work with and know their stuff.

pwd72s 03-17-2019 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrt2you (Post 3725883)
i don't know what your goals are.
but in my OPINION the best way to start modding a car is with the brakes first, you have to stop first before you go fast. then suspension mods to make it handle, more fun per $$$ spent. you might enjoy driving the car this way and stop modding. if not then start modding the motor to go faster.

My opinion is the same. Says the guy remaining stock. I did suspension & brake upgrades on other cars, but since the '09 is "just a driver" to me, no mods.

tossass4370 03-18-2019 01:35 AM

Put the KR's on and enjoy Bullitt's new music! It will turn heads!
But beware the temptation of modding the motor next. Unintended consequences of vehicle modification will occur! (This is an absolute law!) As mrt2you states, set your goals.
Plan your performance mods from the bottom up, and then around the engine before entering the motor or computer. That 62mm TB is pretty and the FR Hot Rod Cams sound nice but they have a lot of unintended negative consequences.
What do you want? Smooth cruiser, canyon carver, drag racer, road course driver or a money pit?
First tires, going from OEM 235/50/18 to 255/45/18, which is actually the correct size for the Bullitt 8.5" wide rim, giving a .75"+/- wider footprint, more grip, and keeping the speedometer accurate.
Next brakes. Steve68Cougar has the best idea for using the '11-'14 GT brake upgrade on the front (the one where it just takes a different bracket and a slightly larger rotor using the Bullitt OEM calipers). The larger rotor is a better heat sink, brought on by the Coyote 5.0 motor. Then brake pads for your driving style. Stainless steel brake lines at this point. Change over to DOT 4 brake fluid.
Rear LCA with brackets. The wheel hop sucks in the OEM suspension, especially on turns.
Next do the 1 piece aluminum driveshaft, eliminating shift clunk, and freeing up torque. Then a better shifter, as the OEM is junk.
These are lower cost upgrades you will feel and enjoy them.
Then get into the suspension, for your needs. The Bullitt OEM suspension is a step above a GT. But get a total package, not piecemeal, for your needs.
08 Bullitt is over 10 years. New performance radiator, FRPP fan, silicone radiator hoses, spark plugs, coils, battery, performance water pump, rebuild the diff clutch pack, finned diff cover, etc. Then think about opening the motor.
PS- To fully enjoy the 62mm TB and FR Hot Rod Cams involves the FRPP intake manifold($) and long tube headers($). Then a professional tune($), not a canned tune...
Save modding the motor and tune for last.

bullit4404 03-18-2019 09:49 AM

What Bill said. Ditto

Match223 03-18-2019 04:14 PM

I agree with tossass4370, I always went by the KISS rules, keep it simple s----d.
I was going to put short tube headers on 5414 but it looks to be a pain in the butt to do for very little gain, I already have the one piece aluminum driveshaft, BMR LCA's, finned differential cover, Hurst shifter and SR Performance lowering springs.
I just picked up a set of Ford Racing sway bars and am budgeting for shocks and struts along with front Ford Racing front lower control arms.
Car currently has drilled and slotted rotors so when I get the suspension finished, brakes are next on the list, I'm going to use the 2014 Coyote brakes.

Gary

Bad Ass Bullitt 03-20-2019 07:35 PM

LOVE the KR's...LCA's here and going on this weekend. Looking at the FR-3A-MGTAA adjustable shocks 1' lower pac...Summit $1780. Here's the question FR adjustable shocks and are the adjustables worth the extra $ or Bilstein B6's? A little more $ but can do the pac separately using the Bilstein's. Car is mainly for road use some track time just for fun, not serious. THANK YOU for your advice and comments they have helped a great deal. Keep e'm coming!!!

bullit4404 03-20-2019 08:05 PM

The adjustable shocks are awesome. You can run them soft for the street or dial them in for track use. They are matched to the springs and sway bars. IMHO, well worth the extra dough.
Bilstein shocks are fine and a good non adjustable.

Steve68Cougar 03-21-2019 05:49 PM

I've been happy with the Tokico adjustables that came with my FR3A kit. The kit as a whole rides a little rougher than the stock suspension, but if you run with the struts/shocks on a soft setting then it's not too bad. I typically go full soft on the fronts and at least 1 1/2 rounds from soft on the rears. If you go too soft on the rears then it will wheel hop. When autocrossing I usually go full firm on the fronts and around 2 1/2 rounds from soft on the rear. You basically want the back soft enough so that the axle will rotate and prevent the inside wheel from spinning as much as possible. On a road course I end up going full firm both front and rear. On a drag strip I go full soft on the front and start out about 3 rounds from soft on the rear. I try to go just firm enough to keep it from wheel hopping. I've done some other suspension mods to mine (lower relocation kit, rod ends on axle joints, adjustable upper control arm, etc), so others may adjust them differently. After all of that - I wouldn't switch out for anything that isn't adjustable.


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