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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't think anyone here knows me. I've been registered on this forum for awhile now but haven't ever posted anything before. I bought my true blue Bullitt in September last year. I love the car and has given me a years worth of fun daily driving duty. Last night I was coming home from Hollywood after a night out with the girl and didn't quite make it home.

I'm the type of person that keeps my eyes glued to the gauges, constantly checking temperature and oil pressure. About 5 miles from home I noticed the engine was pinging bad while accelerating on the freeway. I found that extremely odd. I looked at my girlfriend, temp looks good, I have oil pressure, the car is accelerating just fine otherwise. So, I took it easy and continued to drive the car.

As I was getting off the freeway about 5 minutes later, the car stalls on the off ramp. I thought to myself W-T-F??!!???!? Dropped into third gear, popped the clutch and she fired right up again. 400 feet later the car died again. I came to a stop, turned on the emergency flashers and attempted to start the car. No go, car wouldn't crank over. It felt like a dead battery except only all my accessories and lighting still worked. Then I saw all the smoke pouring out of the hood. Oh **** I'm overheating. Seriously? The gauge never registered that I was running hot.

I got the car towed home and took a look at everything this morning. There is a hose coming off the firewall that goes to a T-Fitting with another hose going to the lower intake a small hose going somewhere near the upper intake. The plastic T-Fitting that the heater hose connects to broke. I have 66k miles on the clock. I have coolant splattered all over the rear bumper. I just bought a 65 Mustang that I was hoping to begin working on. Instead I'm sitting on a computer typing out this painful post, scratching my head, wondering what I'm going to do.

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I feel ya. I just blew out the motor of 1510. But now that I'm past the grieving stage and into the dreaming stage, I can't even begin to explain how excited I am about the upcoming mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
droopysbullitt said:
Sorry to hear. Are you sure the motor is gone? Sounds like it just overheaded due to lack of coolant. Several others have had that T go bad on theirs.
Oh really? So this T is known to be a problem on these cars for some people then?

Well I'm certain that the head gaskets are shot. I have coolant all over my rear bumper. Since these cars have aluminum heads, who knows what kind of damage was done to the heads. Headgasket jobs are a pain in the rear on modular motors. Also, the engine shut off most likely from overheating. Who knows what kind of damage was done to the bottom end too. I'm thinking it's probably a lot easier just to swap in a new engine.

At this point I'm considering all options, including those I haven't listed below. I may
1) Swap in a new 2v and trade the car in for something else
2) Swap in a new 2v and keep driving the car or
3) Swap in a Mach 1 engine if I can find one cheap enough.

Can anyone point me to some mach 1 swap info on these Bullitts?
 

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Charles
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Sorry for the problems. The '01 Mechanical Section has been alive with the "T" problems lately. Do some searches for threads by Steelfalcon.

To me Option 1 is not a good option.

There have been a couple of members here that have performed the 4V swap but I don't recall who at the moment.

This guy can put a 4V in blindfolded. Here is a great write-up.
http://www.modularrevolution.com/4V%20Swap.htm

I would still have the engine checked before I bought a new motor but it doesn't sound good.
 

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droopysbullitt said:
Sorry to hear. Are you sure the motor is gone? Sounds like it just overheaded due to lack of coolant. Several others have had that T go bad on theirs.
What is the solution for this T problem?
 

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if the motor is gone and u are considering a upgrade buy a 03 04 cobra motor best bang for the buck.....:smile:
 

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Your car might have gone into safemode to save itself. Put another T on it and some more fluid and try to see if it works. These motors are pretty tough, when I chipped my piston fragments went all through the upper intake and heads. I cleaned the parts out and drove it for about another 2 months or so with about a 2 inch piece missing from the piston until I was able to replace it. Keep an eye on the oil and you should be fine.
 

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T part no.

The coolant on the rear bumper is likely from the antifreeze running back along the bottom of the car and being drawn back up by the vacuum created at the rear of the car at speed. It was likely escaping as you were still at hwy speed. As Roland said, replace the fitting and refill the system and fire it up, after, of course wiping away as much spattered coolant as possible. The T is a part used on several Ford products and is available at many auto parts stores. It is a HELP product on a red card with the white letters HELP on the top. The part number is 47112. Your Bullitt, like mine, has a heated PCV valve on it. Some Bullitts have it, others not. I thought mine had it because my car was built for the Canadian market, but you don't live in a cold climate, so who knows. I purchased a spare just in case. My T is still original, but my car only has 13,000 miles. Many seem to be failing in the past year or so, most likely a combo of age and mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
rblack4405 said:
how does your oil look?
Oil looks great. It has less then 2k miles on it and doesn't show any signs of water or coolant being mixed in with it.

JB said:
What is the solution for this T problem?
My father builds F-18 Super Hornets for Northrop-Grumman. For a long term solution, he and a buddy of his are going to make me a stainless steel replica/replacement of the oem part. In the mean time, I will buy a replacement from the parts store.

vanislebullitt said:
The coolant on the rear bumper is likely from the antifreeze running back along the bottom of the car and being drawn back up by the vacuum created at the rear of the car at speed. It was likely escaping as you were still at hwy speed. As Roland said, replace the fitting and refill the system and fire it up, after, of course wiping away as much spattered coolant as possible. The T is a part used on several Ford products and is available at many auto parts stores. It is a HELP product on a red card with the white letters HELP on the top. The part number is 47112. Your Bullitt, like mine, has a heated PCV valve on it. Some Bullitts have it, others not. I thought mine had it because my car was built for the Canadian market, but you don't live in a cold climate, so who knows. I purchased a spare just in case. My T is still original, but my car only has 13,000 miles. Many seem to be failing in the past year or so, most likely a combo of age and mileage.
Thank you for the part number. I'll stop by the auto parts store and pick one up. A couple other people were suggesting to me this very same thing about the coolant being drawn to the back of the car along the bottom of the car. It makes sense. I'm thinking when I was pulling off the freeway, slowing down caused less cool air to enter the engine compartment causing the engine to finally heat up. Once this happened, the computer probably shut the engine off and prevented me from being able to start it back up.

I suspect that my engine is fine. I really hope it is. I'm going to run a compression test either tomorrow or thursday and see how things look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
vanislebullitt said:
Keep us posted on how things turn out. Hope it turns out to be a fairly minor inconvenience.
Thanks, I definitely will do.

stripnzinc said:
if the motor is gone and u are considering a upgrade buy a 03 04 cobra motor best bang for the buck.....:smile:
I want a terminator swap for my Bullitt BAD. So bad that my girlfriend knows what Terminators are now and knows how bad I want one. I don't want the terminator as much as I want a Bullitt with a Terminator engine. Problem is, I just bought a '65 Mustang and need to save my money to get an engine into it before dropping serious coin on a terminator setup. Now if only I could find a cheap and wrecked terminator to serve as a donor car :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good call, I'll be sure to be very careful with how I move the hoses around.

The napa down the street from me has a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/8 heater hose t-fitting in stock. I'm going to pick the t-fitting up today after work and hopefully get a compression tester on her tonight or tomorrow.

Can I use any green coolant from the parts store that isn't orange and isn't dexcool? Or should I swing by the Fraud dealership and pick up some motorcraft coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I got the whole cooling system buttoned back up yesterday. I pulled the spark plugs out and they all looked good so I didn't bother with the compression test. I idled it for a good 45 minutes trying to burp the cooling system, then I drove her around for about 20 minutes and so far so good. I'm at home with a 101 fever right now so unfortunately I can't drive it around until I can stop shivering so much.
 
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