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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The dealer installed the 2 new lifters for me but it did not fix the problem. They called Ford and Ford told them to replace the motor! I have some question for you guys:

1. I asked the service rep there about the vin's not matching with a new motor and she said it doesnt work like that. She said all parts are registered with ford and that the new motor wouldnt make any difference to the collectibility of the car. Is this the truth or is there a way to track if the motor has been replaced?
2. Does the new motor come with all the parts already on it, i.e. intake, pullies etc or is it just a block with internals that then needs to have all the parts from the old engine installed on it? I do not want the mechanics at the dealer installing all these old parts onto a new engine.
3. What should i check for before and after the work to make sure they didnt screw anything up? I want to be 100% sure they didnt pull a fast one and give me a GT engine with GT parts. I know to look for the Bullitt intake but the dual throttle bodies, pullies and anything else specific to the Bullitt would escape my notice.
4. Doesnt installing a new motor for a ticking sound that they arent even sure where is coming from sound drastic? I had another dealer look at the noise about 2 months ago and they said it was an exhaust leak! Who do i believe and how do i get them to show me why they think the problem is in the motor and that replacing it will fix the problem.

I will not be happy to fire it up after a new motor and all the scratches you know they will make just to have the ticking sound still be there....any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I can't believe the dealer wants to replace the engine. I also occsionally hear the ticking sound. just heard it this am. I'm in Central FL and the temp was about 63 degrees. i drove it for about 15 miles and returned to it 90 minutes later, temp about 70 degrees. Haven't heard it for the rest of the day, just put it to bed for the evening.

I'm wondering if the ticking has something to do with engine/outside temp warming and maybe a computer that is sticking? OI know it sounds dumb, but I've worked with computers too long and they are at times "highly illogical" (pardon the pun) :-B
 

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I for one would not have them replace the engine. Take it to another dealer. Call Ford and let them know you do not want a new engine, but your ORIGINAL engine repaired properly. I never heard of them replacing engines so freely. Are these engine that bad? From all of the problems I have read about on this forum, DOESN'T SAY MUCH for Ford. :oops:

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Bullitt4995 on 2003-12-04 21:05 ]</font>
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2002-01-12 15:02, Escrotumus wrote:
The dealer installed the 2 new lifters for me but it did not fix the problem. They called Ford and Ford told them to replace the motor! </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

No Kidding? What a surprise! Welcome to the new engine club!

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>

1. I asked the service rep there about the vin's not matching with a new motor and she said it doesnt work like that. She said all parts are registered with ford and that the new motor wouldnt make any difference to the collectibility of the car. Is this the truth or is there a way to track if the motor has been replaced?</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Apparently this is the truth.

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>

2. Does the new motor come with all the parts already on it, i.e. intake, pullies etc or is it just a block with internals that then needs to have all the parts from the old engine installed on it? I do not want the mechanics at the dealer installing all these old parts onto a new engine.</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it comes complete. totally complete. All they do is plug in sensors and swap old accesories and then fire it up.

But make sure its a new engine. Ask the service advisor at least 4 times if they are sure its NEW and not reman. They DO NOT KNOW THE DIFFERENCE!

Go out to your car and make some marks on it with white crayon or chalk. This way you'll know that it was actually worked on.

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
3. What should i check for before and after the work to make sure they didnt screw anything up? I want to be 100% sure they didnt pull a fast one and give me a GT engine with GT parts. I know to look for the Bullitt intake but the dual throttle bodies, pullies and anything else specific to the Bullitt would escape my notice.</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

its called bolt patrol: check for loose bolts, rounded bolts, broken bolts, missing bolts, incorrect bolts.

Then check for broken sensor connectors.

check hoses. check exhaust system including the pipes and muffler bolts.

Crawl underneath and check for oil leaks near the trans. check for oil leaks period.

make sure all under carriage bolts are tight and actually there.

If messed up any of the sensors or injector instalation then you'd have an engine light on in seconds. The eecv system is really, ultra, super-duper sensitive.

Turn on your ac and make sure it cycles and is cold.


Make sure ther are no wires or wire harnesses or cables touching exhaust stuff.

make sure all accesories are on tight.

Check motor mount bolts. Check trans mount bolts.

Also, the engine in Gt's and Bullitts are nearly identical aside from the intake.

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
4. Doesnt installing a new motor for a ticking sound that they arent even sure where is coming from sound drastic? </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it does sound drastic. Thats what happened to me.

Do youself a favor and before this goes down, take a service manager or a tech or both on a test drive wiotha Gt or a bullitt off the lot and let them listen to the noise. I think they'll have a different opinion on a new motor after hearing a few cars on their lot make the same noise.

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
I will not be happy to fire it up after a new motor and all the scratches you know they will make just to have the ticking sound still be there...
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

And that is exaclty what will happen. The dealer i dealt with ended up replacing the front and rear bumper covers and buffing out the hood. all in all this dealer and the hotline cost ford 6000$ which vitrually wiped out the profit on the car.

That hotline is a joke and i don't think Ford has any measureable control over it.

I got an extended warranty out of the deal for free.

Also: Take pictures before you take it in. Give them to your service writer, have them initial and date them.

Side note: When i called the service writer back and gave him the unfortunate news that the new engine makes the same noise--he was absolutely floored. Acted and sounded like i just told him his mom was killed. He said he may end up getting back charged 6000$ for the "repair." I then told him that i went to another dealer and drove a couple of new ones right off the lot (auto and manual) and that all of them did it he became even more dumbfounded.

The running theories as to what the noise are either brief detonation or piston noise.

Take your pick; both are not serious and don't pose long term problems.

I even wen to an engine builder with my problem and he said 4.6 have always made piston noise (due to really short skirts). In this guys experience he also claimed that Ford makes rod and main bearings that make a little noise when cold--and that this is done to add horsepower. His other explanation was that the cold oil makes noise in the 4.6.

Bottomline is that if you take one simple test drive you'll save yourself a bunch of time and hassle.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: fixer on 2002-01-13 00:06 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: fixer on 2002-01-13 00:22 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks fixer, thats great advice! My problem however is not the 3500 rmp death rattle, but it is a ticking noise that never goes away. I can drive the car for hours in summer or winter and it still makes this ticking noise. The death rattle sound always goes away after 5 minutes so its not a major issue. I am not going to let anyone replace the motor until an actual Ford Engineer comes out and talks with me about why they want to do this. If it comes down to replacing the motor then i will follow your advice above. Thanks!
 

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I hear some ticking at times, usually at freeway speeds on windy days? Is some plastic connector flinging around under the hood by chance?
 

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I've heard the same ticking noise out od #85 usually while idling after I've had it out for a ride. It reminds me of the same ticking I've heard from every fuel injected 5.0 mustang I've ever had... But maybe a little louder. My opinion is that the ticking is the injectors and I am going to leave mine alone. After all it is under warranty and if it does break I will be able to find out the actual cause of the problem instead of chasing a ghost. I say drive it and keep an eye on the oil level. By the way. I had a chance to compare #85 with a higher number Bullitt. There were some visible differences in the engine bay. But I'm not quite sure why they were made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well #4456 appears to be fixed of the ticking noise. They replaced the drivers side head and the noise is gone and the car runs like a bat out of hell. There must have been something very wrong in that head like they said because the car is very responsive and seems more powerful. Now i know what you all meant about the music of the exhaust. The car sounds and runs great now. The dealer said it was a defective head and had an oiling problem. I have the work order but im not a mechanic so it makes no sense to me :smile: A friend and I are installing a steed tri ax and a k&n this weekend and then im gonna wind her out and see how she performs. If all is still well after a week then im gonna take a case of corona to that dealer and tell them what a great job they did.
 

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I am so glad that they have finally found the root to the ticking noise for you! I wonder if this is the solution to everyone's ticking problems? Maybe they should make a copy of this post and take it to their Dealership and get new heads.... :smile:
 
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