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Discussion Starter #1
This is what I did today on the Bullitt. Just cleaned with water and then waxed. It's hard to believe these parts are 5-6 years old. This car has been seriously taken care of....
 

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Thanks-I've actually had the sickness a long time, it's just now been transferred to the Bullitt. All the cars I've restored have been as clean underneath as above. My wife says I have issues and I guess she's right... :cool:
 

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Your issues could be the self destructive kind. She should/probably is glad they are the constructive version. As for the suspension, it looks great. I have yet to wash or clean the underside of mine. You might look into painting those rotors so the rust isn't soooo obvious.:badgrin: I bought some hammered style Rustoleum that's a metallic grey color for 1152. I have yet to take the wheels off the car:neutral: . It's been raining here quite a good bit and I have been doing other maintenance things to the house when I'm free and there is no rain.:shock: I figure I'll get to it when there is time this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
texasbullitt said:
yeah but she married you anyway so........ :)
I was fortunate enough to find a great woman who only has 1 flaw-really low standards when it comes to choosing a husband :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DavidMidgley said:
Your issues could be the self destructive kind. She should/probably is glad they are the constructive version. As for the suspension, it looks great. I have yet to wash or clean the underside of mine. You might look into painting those rotors so the rust isn't soooo obvious.:badgrin: I bought some hammered style Rustoleum that's a metallic grey color for 1152. I have yet to take the wheels off the car:neutral: . It's been raining here quite a good bit and I have been doing other maintenance things to the house when I'm free and there is no rain.:shock: I figure I'll get to it when there is time this summer.
I thought about cleaning that area also, but decided against it since the area is completely hidden when the wheel is in place. I work in the truck tire industry and one of the problems we encounter is sets of wheels that come off due to there being paint on the mounting surface of the hub where the wheel sits against the hub. What happens is the thickness of the paint alters the clamping force that is applied when the wheel is torqued to the hub. Taking this example and using it on our Bullitt, if paint is on the machined area where the back of the wheel sits against the hub-the thickness of the paint could cause the wheel to eventually come loose. We have found it's best to just clean that area with a wire brush and give it a light coat with a penetrating oil as a rust inhibitor (I should have at least done this).....John :cool:
 

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:shock: Never crossed my mind that the paint would chaffe off from behind the wheel, and then become loose...

I think other Bullittheads have painted their disks and not suffered any problems however. Anybody here with painted disks have a problem?
 

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DavidMidgley said:
:shock: Never crossed my mind that the paint would chaffe off from behind the wheel, and then become loose...

I think other Bullittheads have painted their disks and not suffered any problems however. Anybody here with painted disks have a problem?
Honestly it's an extremely unlikely thing to have happen. It's not so much that the paint chips out, it's that it softens and or shrinks a mil or so. This can reduce the clamping force originally applied to the wheel when you tightened it. If the clamping force is reduced too much the nuts can begin to back off. It would be very unlikely in our application as we only torque our wheels to 85-100 ft/lbs. But with commercial truck wheels which are torqued to 475 ft/lbs it is a bit more common. Especially in lease & rental fleets where they may paint hubs as part of their normal maintenance when wheels are removed. Often the paint gets put on so heavily that we can chip it off with our fingernails, this is when problems can and do occur with dual assemblies coming loose and if the driver isn't too sharp the nuts can back all the way off the studs and then there are big problems.

Anyway-getting back to our cars-if someone wanted to paint the hub and really wanted to be sure they could just hit the machined mounting surface with some emery cloth to clean the paint off before installing the wheel. Really-this is probably me being a safety conscious service manager who is incorrectly applying truck tire service procedures to automotive application. In other words I'm making a mountain out of a molehill and looking for an excuse for not dressing up my hubs lol...
:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Axemanj3 said:
py would approve,

i havent taken the wheels off for cleaining yet this year, but usually do at least once a year. since lowering the car, it is a little more of a pain in the butt to lift the car up. :hrm:
It is hard to jack these cars up. I use the 2 step procedure of driving onto ramps, and then getting under the front contol arms or the outer edge of the axle tubes on the rear. I'm open to suggestions for a more efficient way....John R
 

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MaineBullitt said:
It is hard to jack these cars up. I use the 2 step procedure of driving onto ramps, and then getting under the front contol arms or the outer edge of the axle tubes on the rear. I'm open to suggestions for a more efficient way....John R
I have the Kenny Brown jacking rails and they are awesome.

Hydraulic jack slides right underneath, anywhere.

I highly recommend them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bullitt_5135 said:
I have the Kenny Brown jacking rails and they are awesome.

Hydraulic jack slides right underneath, anywhere.

I highly recommend them.
Since this thread I have had the Steeda full length sfc's installed. I think I will just get a low profile floor jack and that should do the trick. Those sfc's are nice & solid.....John R :cool:
 

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So, can you jack up the car with the SFC's? Or do I need to get jacking rails too? This winter I'm going to work on the suspension of 4415 and was looking at the kenny brown jacking rails and sfc's. If I can just jack up under the sfc's, I'll probably just get the MM sfc's from American Muscle.

Edit: Or do the jacking rails take place of the SFC's?
 

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itsabullitt said:
So, can you jack up the car with the SFC's? Or do I need to get jacking rails too? This winter I'm going to work on the suspension of 4415 and was looking at the kenny brown jacking rails and sfc's. If I can just jack up under the sfc's, I'll probably just get the MM sfc's from American Muscle.

Edit: Or do the jacking rails take place of the SFC's?
That is a good question and I should point out that I have not done this yet. Hopefully somebody will be able to answer this. The Steeda's are very beefy square tubing and look to be capable of supporting the side of the car, but given what's at stake I'd like to know for sure also.....:cool:
 

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Why not find a shop to zinc coat the rotors, or powder coating would work. Many aftermarket rotos come zinc coated and the coating lasts the life of the rotor. It is especially useful on the inner part of the front rotor that is not used by the break pad but is visable with the wheels on.

I have i-rotors on all 4 corners that have been on the car for about 5 years now. They're zinc coated and still look great!
 

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MaineBullitt said:
That is a good question and I should point out that I have not done this yet. Hopefully somebody will be able to answer this. The Steeda's are very beefy square tubing and look to be capable of supporting the side of the car, but given what's at stake I'd like to know for sure also.....:cool:
I always jack mine up via the SFCs. I have MM full lengths on my car, I'd imagine that just about any SFC would be more than strong enough to support your car though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Barnaby said:
I always jack mine up via the SFCs. I have MM full lengths on my car, I'd imagine that just about any SFC would be more than strong enough to support your car though.

Excellent!! Thanks for the info. I havent't needed to get under the car since the sfc's were installed but I'll use them next time it comes up for sure. thanks again....John R :smile:
 

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MaineBullitt said:
This is what I did today on the Bullitt. Just cleaned with water and then waxed. It's hard to believe these parts are 5-6 years old. This car has been seriously taken care of....
Looks very clean, John...Bullitt number 5 has surely been well taken care of like you stated. :)
 

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I have the KB jacking rails and would also highly recommend them. Fairly easy to install once you hammer the flange back flat and smooth. They do a bit to stiffen the chassis, add that to the MM full length subframes and I can jack 3 wheels off the ground by picking up on the front corner. Now THAT's a stiff chassis!
 
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