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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Friends!

I installed the FMS Aluminum Driveshaft on Saturday evening. All is well and it fits like a charm!

Install pictures will be joining this thread this evening....as well as impressions, etc.

Paul G.

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DHG Bullitt # 2181
Steeda Tri-AX, Aluminum D-shaft

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-07-02 23:13 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-07-02 23:22 ]</font>
 

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As far as I know the benefits to a street car would be that it is better balanced to remove drive line vibration as well as MUCH lighter to reduce the rotating mass of the drive line and put a little more of the famous bullitt torque to the ground. I am VERY excited to hear PBGas's impressions of the piece.
 

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PBGas..Whoo hoo. Did you pull the big vibration damper off the rear end too? Any more SOP observations?

Thanks!

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok...I had some posting problems, as the BB keeps erasing my work after a certain length of time....so this is going to be a bit of a tedious process. I'll post and then edit to continue the post....sorry about the delay!

In essence, Lok explained it exactly. The lighter driveshaft reduces the weight of the rotating mass. I also found that my things are now a bit tighter. I was getting a lot of drivetrain slop and now it just isn't happening. The largest benefit was the complete reduction of the "thrumming" sound that one would experience on the highway. It is now totally gone! As well, the car seems sot spool up quicker in the RPMs. Feels like a few more horses under there according to my SOTP meter. You'll notice the "moose-balls" for lack of a popular term or the counterbalance on the axle housing. This is the object that is hanging directly in front of the axle. I think it is more of a harmonic vibration damper if anything....I am going to probably remove it. I didn't at this time due to a time factor. I will take it out in the morning though and see what happens. The shaft ended up costing me $173.00. You can get it for cheaper but when you pay shipping, it tends to come out about the same. This shaft is also stronger than the stock steel unit.

Follow along with my semi-detailed instructions and observations! Thx for being ever so patient!

Paul G.

The first step is to jack your vehicle up correctly.....make sure you use jackstands as well and put a chuck/wedge on the front wheels so the vehicle doesn't roll back on you.



Second.....align the shaft and pinion "yellow" dots. This tells you where the pinion was balanced in relation to the driveshaft and also shows where the "keyed" area of the shaft is up front near the trans.



Third.....Lock the emergency brake and put the car in gear. I then used the ol' "wrench for a wrench" method to take off the bolts with a bit of leverage. I didn't have a pipe handy. This isn't the safest method, but I have done it for years without a problem. You will need to use a 12mm 12-point wrench or socket ONLY! This is the only style that will fit these bolts. When you have them loosend, you just gently push the shaft forward and it will drop down away from the pinion flange.



Here are the 12mm 24-point cap screws that you have to remove.



Don't forget to put a bit of Locktite on them when putting them back onto the pinion flange of the axle. You don't want these coming loose!!!! I torqued them down tight!



Here are the two driveshafts side by side for comparison. They match exactly!



Here are the splines for both shafts together for comparison. Note the keyed tooth on each one.



Push the Aluminum shaft gently onto the tailhousing of the 3650 trans and then gently rotate it until the key goes into place. You will feel it as the driveshaft will slip into the yolk. Bolt everything back up and enjoy!!!!



Well....that is about it folks! All that I can say is that this was a worthwhile mod and I was happy to be the guinea pig on this one! Thanks to all that were interested! Hope it was appreciated.

Thx again!

Paul G.
DHG Bullitt #2181


P.S....corrected to 12 point wrench! That is what it should have read in the first place! My bad!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-07-02 23:22 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2002-05-29 09:42 ]</font>
 

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Paul..
Excellent job with the pics. I will go get my shaft next week and have it ready when the car goes up for the suspension mods. Let me know if removing the damper weight off the rear is better or worse. Would be nice to eliminate all that unsprung weight.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thx a bunch Gents! It was actually kind of fun to do. My next mod is putting in the FMS upper control arms and I am welding a small reinforcement on both the upper and lower arms to make them more rigid. I will post pics of that install when it is done.

I purchased the driveshaft from a friend's store in Buffalo seeing as he had 1 in stock. I live only 1 hour from the border so it made more sense to me.

One of the best places to buy it from is:
http://www.buyfordmotorsport.com This is a company called Diversified Products and they are great.

Paul G.
 

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awesome job, pics, & description Paul!!
thanks so much for all your time and effort!
pretty cool bunch of gearheads on this BB
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No Probs Buds! I was happy to do this!

I'll have my next mods posted soon as well. Just have to pick up the parts.

As I mentioned previously....this is the nicest and most...how do I put it....courteous BB that I have ever been part of and I am very glad to be here!!!!

Paul G.
 

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Thanks Paul,
I installed my alumnimum drive shaft Saturday and viewing your pics and instructions helped to make it very easy. I was not expecting anything greatly noticeable from the upgrade. I was more going for the insurance of a better balanced drive shaft and a little bit of rotational weight reduction and something to do this weekend. Well when I took the wife out for a ride we both thought that for some reason the roads felt smoother. I would have thought it was all in my mind but the wife noticed it. I took my regualr route to work so I could compare to the same roads and it sure feels like it is smoother.
Thanks again for the documentation.
 

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My aluminum driveshaft should be here in the morning. Along with a Dr. Gas X pipe and 3.73 gears. I plan on doing them all at the same time. Should be a WONDERFUL SOTP experience. Thanks for the step-by-step and the pictorial. I am sure it will help out. I have an experienced mechanic helping me with all the mods but it's still nice for me to have an idea of what's goin on before hand.
 

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Santa told me that he is bringing an aluminum driveshaft for my son's Bullitt tonight. He told thay he's also delivering several others to fellow BullittHeads and I thought this would be an excellent time to bump PBGas's excellent How-To pictorial to the top.
I Hope this helps and thanks to PBGas!
 

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I put one up under mine while changing the gears.I did notice that the clunk you get sometime going to 1st,is gone. BTW,between the alum shaft and the "monkey nuts",I saved 17 lbs.!! The nuts weigh 10 lbs.
 

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PBGAS, Just how tight were thr bolts on your driveshaft? Mine are really tight and I certainly don't want to break one off. I was using a 12 mm box end wrench.
 

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Nice Job Cant wait to see more step by step pick, Macks it easer for me :lol: Cuz I dont know a lot about this stuff, but do know a lil
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I tightened them down real well. Basically, they are a pretty strong bolt seeing that all of the that torque has to go through that area. I would give them a good turn if you can. I didn't have the correct socket to get an accurate torque reading but I bet someone out there does.

Just make sure you put the thread locker on the bolts as well.

Other than that, you shouldn't have any problems.

Paul G.
 

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Just a small friendly correction for those performing this mod that have read and followed along with the instructions posted on this thread. The bolts that attach the driveshaft to the pinion are 12 point rather than 24 point (at least on my car). I discovered this after reading the install instructions here and shopping for a 24 point socket or wrench. At several speed shops they looked at me funny and said "huh, 24 point are you sure it is 24 point, probably 12 point is what you want."

I crawled under my car and 12 point works and I counted the points on the bolts and guess what! 12 point.

My understanding is that a few of the foreign car companies are using some 24 point fasteners (BMW to name one). If you need 24 point tools you may have to get it from a Snap On dealer or MAC dealer as Sears did not have it, nor did two speed shops I visited.
 
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