Ok...I had some posting problems, as the BB keeps erasing my work after a certain length of time....so this is going to be a bit of a tedious process. I'll post and then edit to continue the post....sorry about the delay!
In essence, Lok explained it exactly. The lighter driveshaft reduces the weight of the rotating mass. I also found that my things are now a bit tighter. I was getting a lot of drivetrain slop and now it just isn't happening. The largest benefit was the complete reduction of the "thrumming" sound that one would experience on the highway. It is now totally gone! As well, the car seems sot spool up quicker in the RPMs. Feels like a few more horses under there according to my SOTP meter. You'll notice the "moose-balls" for lack of a popular term or the counterbalance on the axle housing. This is the object that is hanging directly in front of the axle. I think it is more of a harmonic vibration damper if anything....I am going to probably remove it. I didn't at this time due to a time factor. I will take it out in the morning though and see what happens. The shaft ended up costing me $173.00. You can get it for cheaper but when you pay shipping, it tends to come out about the same. This shaft is also stronger than the stock steel unit.
Follow along with my semi-detailed instructions and observations! Thx for being ever so patient!
Paul G.
The first step is to jack your vehicle up correctly.....make sure you use jackstands as well and put a chuck/wedge on the front wheels so the vehicle doesn't roll back on you.
Second.....align the shaft and pinion "yellow" dots. This tells you where the pinion was balanced in relation to the driveshaft and also shows where the "keyed" area of the shaft is up front near the trans.
Third.....Lock the emergency brake and put the car in gear. I then used the ol' "wrench for a wrench" method to take off the bolts with a bit of leverage. I didn't have a pipe handy. This isn't the safest method, but I have done it for years without a problem. You will need to use a 12mm 12-point wrench or socket ONLY! This is the only style that will fit these bolts. When you have them loosend, you just gently push the shaft forward and it will drop down away from the pinion flange.
Here are the 12mm 24-point cap screws that you have to remove.
Don't forget to put a bit of Locktite on them when putting them back onto the pinion flange of the axle. You don't want these coming loose!!!! I torqued them down tight!
Here are the two driveshafts side by side for comparison. They match exactly!
Here are the splines for both shafts together for comparison. Note the keyed tooth on each one.
Push the Aluminum shaft gently onto the tailhousing of the 3650 trans and then gently rotate it until the key goes into place. You will feel it as the driveshaft will slip into the yolk. Bolt everything back up and enjoy!!!!
Well....that is about it folks! All that I can say is that this was a worthwhile mod and I was happy to be the guinea pig on this one! Thanks to all that were interested! Hope it was appreciated.
Thx again!
Paul G.
DHG Bullitt #2181
P.S....corrected to 12 point wrench! That is what it should have read in the first place! My bad!
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-07-02 23:22 ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2002-05-29 09:42 ]</font>
