[LesnTea]

OK, my DrGas X pipe arrived today and it was for a '85 - '95 5.0. And it was incomplete on top of that, no bent outlet tubes. Anyway I give them a call and they are sending the right outlet tubes and say it will fit. I won't know until I get my heads back and everything installed.

What I need is to know how far apart the long tubes are where your x or h pipes connect. This pipe I have puts the inlet tubes 14" apart.

Thanks guys.

 

[roushraven99]

Sounds about right from memory. See if you can guesstimate from the picture below.

 

[LesnTea]

All right, the width looks like it would work. BUT, what about the O2 sensors front and back??? This pipe doesn't have bungs for the O2 sensors. Can I wire the mil eliminaters into the O2 circuit and just eliminate the sensors????

I have a feeling that DrGas is going to just have to take this stuff back and send me the right stuff instead of trying to make something for a '95 fit on an '01.

Let me know about the mil wiring, there may be hope after all.

 

[roushraven99]

Hmmm that may be a problem. My BBK h-pipes came with the screw in points in place. In any case if you don't want to go through the trouble of sending your Dr. Gas pipes back to Utah, I'm sure that any good muffler shop can weld the bungs in for you so that you can wire in your MIL's. Oh the front sensors will go into the headers. You did get the O2 extensions right?

_________________
2001 Bullitt - 258.6hp 294.9tq
1999 Roush Stage 2 S/C Vert - 382hp/389tq

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: roushraven99 on 2002-03-11 21:49 ]</font>

 

[LesnTea]

I thought of that too but I already paid $215 deleivered and don't intend to spend more for something I should have gat in the first place. They have really been pleasent to deal with so far and may just opt to send the right pipes. Fact is I sure don't have $200 worth of materials, it's probably cheaper just to send the right pipes and forgo the added charge of having these wrong pipes returned.

Extenders...OK I admit it, I made an assumption. I thought the extenders were for the rear O2 sensors and I can see from the pics that wasn't right. I thought I would get the length when I wired in the mil's. So I will go ahead and order the extenders as well.

 

[roushraven99]

Let me know how it goes with the Dr Gas x-pipes because I'm going to be adding them to my Roush (that is if they get here in time)

 

[LesnTea]

I gave Neal a call at DrGas this morning and he has already sent out outlet pipes. We talked alittle about the inlet pipes not having any O2 bungs installed and turns out that even if I had recieved the '01 kit it wouldn't have had them. So part of this mix up is my falt for making assumptions. Anyway it's not a big deal to have them installed. Neal said they are simply 18mm nuts with a 1.5 pitch. I am going to do a little asking around to see if it is feasable to simply cut the O2 sensors out of the circuit and wire in the mil's or maybe retain them and not put them in the pipes.

Any thoughts on that one?? Here's a couple of pics showing the pipes I have.

 

[Learo2000GT]

I dont know why you could not just put the MIL's on the rear O'2 sensors and then just zip stip them up..... but you will need the front O2's installed.....

 

[LesnTea]

I asked that question when I called Dallas Mustang to order the O2 extenders. He said they had to be installed in order for the car to run right. I wish I knew how they worked and how the computer uses the data. I'm sure it compares the upstream reading with the downstream reading to ensure the cats are doing what they are suposed to do. Question is, does the computer simply turn on the check engine light if the data is out of spec or is there some engine mangiment implimented? Beats me. :???:

 

[retromuscle]

LesNTea,

Don't worry about the second O2's. You can definately install the MIL's and zip tie them up out of the way. The ONLY purpose of the second O2's is to verify that they cats are in place and operational. If you install MIL's, the computer is fooled into thinking the second O2's are saying that the cats are there and working.

Another option (which is what I'm going to try when I do my longtubes in a few years) is to not install MIL's and simply tie the second O2's up out of the way. The O2's would then function by sampling the outside air rather than the exhaust. The result? The first O2's measures the (I think it's the CO) content of the exhaust. The second O2's remeasure the content to see if it's lower. The job of the cats is to make the exhaust burn clean and expel H20 and CO2. By sampling the outside air with the second O2's, the computer will think the cats are 100% efficient.

Keep in mind that's just a theory (if you use MIL's, it REALLY doesn't matter where the second O2's are located because they don't do anything at that point), but it won't cost you anything to try it. Even if it doesn't work, the only thing that will happen is a check engine light with come on and a code will be set in the computer. The computer only uses data from the first O2's to adjust A/F.

Hope this helps!

 

[LesnTea]

That's dam-dandy retro!! Thank you so much for the input. My Dad has an old arc welder that he's going to teach me to use. We plan to practice on scrap. Point is, I would really like to weld up all my seams myself. What I planned to do was just clamp everything in place on installation then drop it and have the seams welded. installeing the bungs had me worried though. But not anymore!!! :smile: :smile: :smile:

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: LesnTea on 2002-03-13 15:02 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: LesnTea on 2002-03-13 15:03 ]</font>