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I've heard good things about the Vorshlag parts from other mustang forums. And again from those forums brake cooling ducts would certainly help. You must be gettin-er to boil the fluid in the canyons. For almost any of those you'll probably have to do some cutting/adapting for the hoses to pull air from the factory lower grille. Another option may be this from Ford LINK

I ended up going with some bigger wheels as I plan on upgrading the 4 or 6 piston calipers. My original plan was to upgrade to the 13.2" 2011+ rotor but it looks like these days the caliper bracket to do that is around 100$ each. At that point you're most of the way to the 4 piston Brembos. The other nice thing about different wheels is being able to fit larger tires. I'm now running 265/40/19 in the front, and 275 rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I do have those Ford shield installed along with Boss 302 brake-lines, 2011+ brackets, 13" Stoptech slotted rotors and PF pads. Those shield will only protect the tie-rod boot if you are still running the OEM type, I am running the MM tie-rod which are heim joint so those shield doesn't do much, maybe little cooler.... I will try the SS braided lines and cooling ducts. I just found out Griggs racing makes one too but may have to cut the front corners of the bumper.

I just wish that someone makes "bolt-on" kit. JLT did at one point but now discontinued.

If you are interested, I have extra set of 2011+ brackets sitting on my bench, painted to match the calipers but needs to be redone due to scratches. Just let me know but in my honest opinion, I would skip the 2011+ set up and go straight to AP racing big brake kit, I believe their 4 piston calipers will fit our cars with small spacers.
 

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Not sure if this is the JLT kit you've seen before, but it looks like it might fit the bill with a bit of drilling the factory lower grille JLT Mustang Brake Cooling Kit - Silver Bezels JLTBCK-GT500-GBC (07-09 GT500)

Looking back over the Vorshlag deflectors, they seem like a great option but at the same time they don't seem sure they would work with the 2 piston caliper. I previously had a 2015 with the track pack and that had something similar, in addition to an undertray that had grooves to direct air to the brakes.

And yea I'm pretty torn on what direction to take with the brakes. I don't really have any canyons out here on the east coast, but with the power mods she gets up and goes. I would like a bit more confidence in the braking. I've gathered I can piece together the 4 piston brembo kit fairly cheaply, but then the original wheels will never fit. Thats kind of why I was thinking of going with the 2011+ bracket and rotor size.
 

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I've got Vorshlag deflector wannabees (made my own) on my '18. They seem to work quite well. I doubt the setup for the S197s works quite as well because of the lack of underbody ducting. I've got home made 3" ducting on my Bullitt. I broke my lower grill a long time ago and decided to use it for my air inlets. I cleared out the mesh in the right spots and made some transition tubes to run the lines back to the brakes. I've been pretty happy with it. Along with the ducts, I've got 11-14 GT base brakes, Goodrich SS lines, Ferodo DS2500 pads, stock replacement 13.2" rotors and Motul RBF 600 fluid. I've never experienced any brake fade with it on the track, but I'm not necessarily the most aggressive driver, either.
 

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My 08 BLLTT brake cooling set up is the JLT package along with the GT500 shields. The oem dust shields leave 3 bolt holes (upon removal), so the GT500 shields use the front and upper bolt holes, and the JLT bracket shares the upper hole, then solo on the rear hole. JLT 2.5" set up is just about plug and play, just drill a 2.5" hole in the middle of honeycomb on each side of the lower grill. Flexing the 2.5" ducts will make you happy you did not get 3" ducts. Use lots of silicon spray on bezels and brackets when pushing the ducts on with a twisting action. And more heavy duty zip ties than provided.

Looks like American Muscle still has the JLT kit in stock, as JLT no longer lists it. BUY IT NOW. If the polished inlets bug you, JLT AND AM still stocks the black inlets. BLLTT's inlets are behind a lower billet grill to prevent damage to the lower radiator. All the other kits do not have inlets and are 3".

I totally agree with Steve68Cougar on the Vorshlag deflector, having seen Steve use it at Gingerman on his S550 supercharged Roush. WOW for the S550. For the S197, I would suggest the JLT inlets and a section of 2.5" tubing to feed the Vorshlag.
Since installing the JLT cooling kit and the GT500 shields, BLLTT keeps it's brakes firm on road course 20-25 minute sessions and no longer spider cracks rotors. Front Rotor temps after no brake cool down lap run 270*f +/-.
BLLTT'S other brake mod's are DOT 4, Steeda SS lines, 14" Brembo calipers, 14"StopTech cryo slotted rotors, Shelby clutch fluid isolator (oem clutch shares the brake master cylinder and after muliple shifts and high speed braking, contributes to high brake fluid temp), GT500 rear caliper bracket and rear 13.8" rotor and no rear dust shield. EBC Yellow Stuff pads, very good for street and road course.

VERY HAPPY.
 

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Now on the UNINTENDED CONSEQUENCES OF VEHICLE MODIFICATION- BRAKES.

For our S197 08/09 4.6 NA motor, the 2011+ bracket is a great mod, keeping the same S197 front 2 piston caliper, just increasing to the 13.8" rotor, spec till end of S197 5.0 coyote of 2014.
The 13.8" rotor gives the S197 Bullitt caliper a great more brake torque, about 2", WOW, same as the early coyote. Keep the OEM Bullitt calipers, pads and just modding the front bracket to a larger 13.8 " rotor is a great braking mod, with no major consequences.

Thinking about the S197 Brembo 4 piston 14" . Lots of consequences. To run the OEM Bullitt rims- 1" or 25mm spacers, ARP bolts, open lug nuts or McGard acorn nuts (oem are not deep enough) and very low profile 5gram wheel weights mounted totally on the outside inner band to get 3mm clearance from the Brembo caliper outside edge. I CANNOT STRESS THIS SPEC ENOUGH ABOUT PUTTING THE LOW PROWFILE 5GM WEIGHTS ON THE OUTER BAND BAND OF THE OEM BULLITT INNER RIM TO CLEAR THE OUTER EDGE OEDGE OF BREMBO CALIPER with 1" spacers. The rim flexs during turns and 3mm tolerance is small. (Also do the paper sheet test to make sure the spacers and rims hubs are spec flat.)

Yes, BLLTT runs front 14 Brembo, but at the road course, switch to GT500 rims, no spacers needed and open lug nuts used. For road trips, switch to OEM Bullitt rims but with 1" spacers front and REAR (to keep tracking correct). My mechanic bans BLLTT from running spacers on the roadcourse.
There are cosequences for "simple vehicle mods".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. I accept this car as what it is which is daily/canyon car and enjoy it. Just can't give up the stock wheels which look so good. I will be keeping the stock 2011+ set up, however I will be adding brake cooling ducts and braided SS lines. I may try different pads in the future.
 

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Above photos are JLT 2.5" cooling duct kit for the GT500, along with the FRPP GT500 shields, installed on 08 BLLTT, modded with 14" rotors Stop Tech slotted, 4 piston Brembo and SS lines.

An inquery to JLT about whether the 07/09 GT500 kit brackets are compatible with 2011+ 13.2" rotors and caliper brackets would be interesting.
As AM still has these 07/09 GT5OO kits in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
tossass4370

Thanks for the photos. Just got some DOT SS braided lines to start. I will most likely try the Voshlag deflectors, modify the fender liners and bottom splash shield to direct the air.

 

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Y'all can try Dot 5.1 brake fluid Motorcraft or Wagner. I use it Vintage Racing a '67 coupe & have had great results. Also Cryo Treating the rotors when new & using a Potorfield Pad like a R4 will do the job faster and transfer less heat to the caliper piston.
 

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Above photos are JLT 2.5" cooling duct kit for the GT500, along with the FRPP GT500 shields, installed on 08 BLLTT, modded with 14" rotors Stop Tech slotted, 4 piston Brembo and SS lines.
Are the grill bezels that came with the kit long enough to clamp the hoses to, or did you have to extend them in some way?
 

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jim253, The grill bezels are long enough to clamp the hoses onto. Just use lots of slicone spray to twist the hoses onto the bezels.

short circuit, think about using the JLT bezels and a length of 2.5" ducting with zip ties to direct the air into the Vorshlag deflectors, rather than modifying (cutting into) the fender liners or splash shield.

Last weekend, I ran 3 days at Carolina Motorsports Park, about 4 to 5 sessions each day, 20 to 25 minute long on the 14 turn 2.2 mile course, as an Instructor. I check my rotor temps after each seesion. With BLLTT's setup, front 14" rotor temps were about 200*-250* after cool down lap. Rears on the GT500KR 13.8 rotors were 250*-300*, higher as I use traction control. No brake fade!

What I have found about using the GT500KR rear brake mod, which is a longer bracket to mount the standard Bullitt/GT calipers onto a 13.8" rotor is BLLTT tends to squat during hard braking, rather than nose dive, resulting in better rear control (far less over steer on turns) and far lower rear rotor temps when using traction control. The negatives are having to pull the axles off to install the brackets, remove the anti-groan u-clamps from the axle-caliper resulting in unusual noise during braking and the higher cost of 13.8"rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Took the car out to canyon again past weekend (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angeles_Crest_Highway).
Just by switching from Dot3 motorcraft to Dot4 AP fluid helped tremendously. Still on my Boss 302 rubber lines. Braided lines are ready to go in but at this time it will be on hold along with idea of brake ducting until it seem absolutely necessary.
At this point, Issue is not the brakes, Driver is. I tend to go in "too hot" into corners and over brake thinking this is a light car which is not. Recent suspension upgrades, Tires and how the car now behaves gave me too much confidence in this car which can be dangerous. However, ordered and received a wider gas pedal to make heel and toe shifting easier. :)
 

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Short circuit, been thinking about my reply. GREAT YOU DRIVE BULLITT!
With the DOT 4, better brake performance! But you must continue your quest to reduce brake temps, otherwise KRAP will happen. As a canyon carver addict, MOD before FAILURE.
Put the braided SS brake lines on front and rear. Rubber is an insulator, keeps the heat in. Devise a front brake cooling system. If using the Vorshlag, Steve68Cougar could send you photo's of what he did. The JLT GT500 kit might work with the 2011 bracket, I will do some measurements.
Have you removed your rear dust shields?
Another way the brake fluid picks up temp is long drives with multiple shifts between 2-3-4, as the brake master cylinder shares/feeds the clutch hydraulic line. Look at the Shelby clutch reservoir isolator kit.
You admit you are "too hot" driver going into turns. Picking up unnecessary brake heat.
1st, SMOOTH IS FAST.
2nd, SLOW DOWN TO LEARN. If you are holding your breath or your butt meter is worried, you are not learning, but surviving.
When braking straight line before turn in, depress clutch and then brake hard. Braking without depressing clutch puts more heat on the brakes/fluid as you are braking against the engine.
Downshift and then release cutch before turn in. Lightly touch throttle to rev match as you release clutch. Turn your head/eyes to apex. Lightly roll on throttle for track out. Use every inch between the lines. This is my mantra on every turn. Talk to and critique yourself on every turn. I do.
Then next to learn is trail braking, lightly depressing the brake after turn in, to better make apex and track out. It is LIGHTLY, otherwise OVERSTEER will occur.
Please do not engage in heel-toe braking until you have mastered the above. Heel-toe must be learned at very low speed first, not to be learned at speed. It is a racing technique. It will not decrease brake temp. And the closer distance between throttle and brake can cause a KRAP.
Last, for your fun canyon drives, get a pair of driving or race shoes with thin smooth soles and rolled heels, to better feel the pedal.
Win your trophy, drive BULLITT home.
Let me know,
Bill
 

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Short circuit, been thinking about my reply. GREAT YOU DRIVE BULLITT!
With the DOT 4, better brake performance! But you must continue your quest to reduce brake temps, otherwise KRAP will happen. As a canyon carver addict, MOD before FAILURE.
Put the braided SS brake lines on front and rear. Rubber is an insulator, keeps the heat in. Devise a front brake cooling system. If using the Vorshlag, Steve68Cougar could send you photo's of what he did. The JLT GT500 kit might work with the 2011 bracket, I will do some measurements.
Have you removed your rear dust shields?
Another way the brake fluid picks up temp is long drives with multiple shifts between 2-3-4, as the brake master cylinder shares/feeds the clutch hydraulic line. Look at the Shelby clutch reservoir isolator kit.
You admit you are "too hot" driver going into turns. Picking up unnecessary brake heat.
1st, SMOOTH IS FAST.
2nd, SLOW DOWN TO LEARN. If you are holding your breath or your butt meter is worried, you are not learning, but surviving.
When braking straight line before turn in, depress clutch and then brake hard. Braking without depressing clutch puts more heat on the brakes/fluid as you are braking against the engine.
Downshift and then release cutch before turn in. Lightly touch throttle to rev match as you release clutch. Turn your head/eyes to apex. Lightly roll on throttle for track out. Use every inch between the lines. This is my mantra on every turn. Talk to and critique yourself on every turn. I do.
Then next to learn is trail braking, lightly depressing the brake after turn in, to better make apex and track out. It is LIGHTLY, otherwise OVERSTEER will occur.
Please do not engage in heel-toe braking until you have mastered the above. Heel-toe must be learned at very low speed first, not to be learned at speed. It is a racing technique. It will not decrease brake temp. And the closer distance between throttle and brake pedals can cause a KRAP.
Last, for your fun canyon drives, get a pair of driving or race shoes with thin smooth soles and rolled heels, to better feel the pedal.
Win your trophy, drive BULLITT home.
Let me know,
Bill
PS, what tires and size are on BULLITT?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bill

I will take your recommendation and order the parts. Also have other parts that needs to be installed on this car while car is on the lift(new engine mounts, trans mount, ford shorty headers, etc). I will report back.
 
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