I broke mine in the same as my Cobra R. Drive it to the track, check all the fluids, heat up the tires, and Drop the Hammer. Currently got 19000 miles and not one problem. Fixed an intermintent clutch release bearing squeal myself by winning the burnout contest at a local Ford show. Noise hasn't returned since that day. Tire wear seems to be my only issue. Been looking at all this worry about engine noise. I don't have it. When the noise causes the slippery stuff to run out the side its time to worry.
Yeah, there is no babying these beasts. Drive it like you stole it right outta the dealer. The main thing is to vary the engine speed (rpm's) throughout the whole band...that includes up to the redline.
hmmmm, interesting, how do you seat rings when the cylinder walls have a cross hatch scored in the wall and the ring is a smooth ring? the ring cannot grove into a cross hatch pattern.
if i buy a new car and drive it off the lot, it sure better not be smoking out the tailpipe indicating rings not seating.
That's interesting. I am not a mech. Maybe
the mech I asked didn't know about the
cross hatching when I asked him about break
in period. Are all cylinders cross hatched?
So what you are saying is they are already
seated? Curious. Thanks for the info!
Another thing my mech friend told me was that
motors today have much closer tolerances as
far as parts fitting together than say 20
to 30 years ago.
BULLITT chase scene recreated on rear dash
with Revell 1/25 scale 68 GT 390 Fastback and
68 Charger R/T metal body models. Unfortunately
the hub caps don't come off the Charger.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PY on 2002-01-17 17:47 ]</font>
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