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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a set of 6000K Stangmods HID's on 3206 for awhile and could never get them to focus correctly or align. I ended up destroying my windshield and hood by screwing around with them (another story) - http://www.imboc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144840.

Today, I ripped them out of the car (not exaggerating) and threw the whole crap away in the trash!

I put my SilverStar 9007ST's in and they are aligned perfectly. I am assuming that these ST SilverStars are the brightest Halogen Bulbs available. According to Sylvania they are rated at 4000K. I just wanted to ask if anyone knows of any others that are brighter or whiter?

I don't want to have to buy all the ones that claim they are brighter/whiter, only to find out they are not.
 

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Two things you can do.

Don't buy into the color temp hype on replacement bulbs. Ask yourself "how can more light possibly get through a bulb with a blue tint than one with no tint at all?" It can't. Blue tends to play tricks on the eyes, making you think you can see more clearly. A tinted bulb must be over-volted to produce an acceptable lumen number. A Silverstar is probably really equivalent to a 10.5V bulb. So if you've got 12V to it, it's over-volted, and will produce more lumens...at the expense of bulb life. They would probably last forever at 10V, but would be about as bright as a 1970's sealed beam. GE sells a bulb called a Nighthawk. It's clear, charged with Xenon gas and does put out a slightly whiter light, but nowhere near 4000k. Philips has one called the Vision Plus that is similar.

Next thing. Get more voltage to the bulbs. Increasing the voltage will increase the lumens and give you a cleaner, slightly "whiter" light. Basically, you are over-driving the bulb. The Silverstar accomplishes this with the filament, but you are going to do it with a real voltage increase. Bulb life will go down on any bulb at that is overvolted, but it should not be as bad as a Silverstar at normal voltage. A Silverstar at 13.5V probably wouldn't last 50 hours.

So how do you get more voltage? You need to either build a harness or buy one that is already made. It's really simple to install. The hardest thing is trying to hide the wire. You are basically connecting the lights directly to the battery. Your factory harness stays in place, no wire cutting or anything. You connect one of your factory harness sockets into the new harness. The light switch inside the car will turn on relays instead of the lights. The relays now turn on the lights. Instead of having yards of thin wire trying to carry the load, and losing voltage along the way, a big fat 10 gauge wire connected directly to the battery is doing the job. I did not measure the voltage before and after when I did mine, but it is not uncommon to lose a volt or more through thin wire. As small as that sounds, the difference between 12V and 13.5V in a standard automotive bulb will be about 400 lumens! And a side benefit to the harness is that it takes the load off the factory wiring. I don't know how many older Fox bodies I saw with burned light switches. A burned switch sucks, but a burned harness is worse. I had that happen in my 95 F150. The switch went and the harness caught on fire and burned 6" of wiring beyond it.

And when you get done, and you really want some light, you can make it so your low and high beams stay on together. 220W of blinding light! I haven't tried this yet, it may melt the lenses :lol:


Left to right:

1)Before I did anything to the lights. 2)After the harness with the factory bulbs. 3)After the harness with the Night Hawk bulbs. All low beam.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great info, thanks.......

I was looking at the Nighthawks online last night.

My SilverStars ST's are not blue tinted, they are slightly yellow tinted.

Anyway, what harness did you use and where did you get it?
 

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I bought the harness from here http://www.gosperformance.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=1983

It's good enough, but if I had to do it over again, I might build my own. The only real problems I had with it is that it's a little too long. It really is big enough for a Super Duty truck that uses the same 9007 bulb. It's pretty easy to hide the extra wire though. Better too much wire than not enough. The only other thing, it's bulb sockets were a little brittle and I actually broke one while pulling it off to put the Night Hawks in. I had really pushed it on the factory bulb too much and I just could not get it lose without breaking it. No problem though. You can get a replacement socket from Napa, pull the pigtail out, and install it without having to splice anything. Maybe a 5 minute job.

Or you could just build your own http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/harness.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info. I will order one and be careful with the plugs!
 
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