Would a Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft help reduce or eliminate the clunking and clacking some us are experiencing in our drivetrains? Are they better balanced? Or is reduced weight the only benefit of aluminum? Thanks.
Most OE applications of AL driveshafts are to increase the powertrain bending frequency (reduced weight) which is calculated based on the maximum speed the vehicle can obtain at the point the powertrain hit it's resonance frequency (not good for trans. tail shafts or housings, etc.). Although it's lower rotational inertia may provide some help with the issue, the fact that unless set up with liners the AL may transmit more noise than a steel d/s. I'm not a powertrain expert, this is based on being exposed to a few NVH issues while working 23 years in the industry. There are probably some experts out there that can provide additional details.
Ford hangs that big heavy vibration damper weight on the rear end to quell some of the driveline vibration. I removed min when I was under there installing the panhard Bar. I did not notice much increase in driveline NVH with it removed.
I know they did a recall on early current generation F bodies to replace driveshafts due to vibration problems and they went to an aluminum one. An aluminum driveshaft most likely will handle higher rotational speeds due to less weight and I would think it would contribute less noise for the same reason. Now, Bullitt4003 has a point in it may resonate more.. don't know that for sure. I plan on installing one when Uncle Sam sends me my tax sheet so I'll let you know.
I installed my aluminium driveshaft today and here's what I found. I used to start noticing driveline resonance right at 4000 rpm with the new d/s in place that seems to have disappeared. I also removed the heavy horseshoe vibration damper. The driveline seems smoother but i haven't road tested it enough to tell if it's just a "halo" effect of having the new driveshaft on or if it is really smoother. Also, I removed the subframe connectors and put on the ones from Steeda. The stock ones I'm sure improve the structural rigidity of the car but the aftermarket ones are much more sturdy.
Arthur, please keep us posted on how well you like the aluminum DS. That's probably my next mod based on what you say a week from now. I see the cost for the DS is about $150. What would be the going amount of labor to install it? A local Ford dealer quoted me $365 for the DS and labor. Seems very high to me. Thanks.
#2731 True Blue
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Superchips Premium Fuel Chip
GT Fog Lights
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TrueBlueBullitt on 2001-08-14 19:12 ]</font>
John if you don't want to do the install yourself (which is pretty easy) a dealer service shop shouldn't charge you any more than 1 hour labor. In fact the whole job could be done in 30 minutes even with a road test. $365.00 is way too much. Since my last post I took my Bullitt out on the loney and very vacant motorway over here and can report absolutely no noticeable resonance as before the aluminium D/S went on. The driveline still seems as smooth as ever certainly not worse but I will do some more short trips before I categorically say that it is "significantly" better. What is however better and worth the price was getting rid of the hum at 4000 rpm.
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