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A few weeks back i purchased a car hauler from C&S Trailers in Fort Worth, Texas..i was very pleased with the trailer until some things happened(pics attached)...it took almost a month to get the lic plates for it..i talked to the sales guy several times about this....while waiting for the plates..i loaded the car on the hauler..i could not open the door of the car to get out if it was placed on the trailer the way it should be...i called the sales guy again..he said that they would fix the prob...when i got the plates i call the sales guy an told him again about the prob...he said to load the car an bring it to C&S so they could get a good look at it..i told him that was not possible cause i could not open the door to get out after the car was loaded an i was not going to crawl out the window..i also sent him an email...then i got a call from the sales guy....he an his boss had a fix for the prob....the fix was a removable fender....the cost was $250.00....i hit the roof an told him to put the boss on the phone..i told him that was not a fix but that it was a bigger prob...he could not understand what i was trying to tell him..we had a lot of words...not bad words...just words....in conclusion...i would not buy another trailer from C&S(i bought two(2) trailers in the last 6 months from them)..an i would spread the word to all who might be thinking about buying a trailer from C&S...
D0 NOT BUY A TRAILER OF ANY KIND FROM C&S TRAILER IN FORT WORTH, TEXAS.

The real fix was to raise the bed of the hauler by at least 2"..so the door will clear the fender...this fix is underway...the cost to me for this fix is $500 bucks.
So......cost of hauler....$3495.00
tax an stuff...... $400.00
fix the hauler so i can use it....$500.00

The 1st pic shows where C&S told me to load the car....loading it like this puts all the load on my truck....not good!!!!
The 2nd pic shows where the car needs to be to balance the weight...
In any case...still cant open the car door.
I am hoping the hauler will be ready for Tulsa..rant...done!
 

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I have not heard a lot of good / positive things about C&S trailers..... all similar horror stories.... a friend of mine who use to trailer his 1970 shelby gt-500 got into it with them a few years back.... they tol dhim he should have brought the car in first to see how it would fit when loaded and refused to do anything..... he left it there and stopped payment on the check....never did go to court though so he lucked out
 

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Hi..Mark....yeah..i started to take the hauler back...but...i made a call to my best bud...told him the prob...now here is the irony of this story...come to find out
the guy who owns C&S(Tim)...is best friends with a guy that works for my bud...this upset him very much..he is the guy that is gonna fix my hauler...but..he told me that C&S was getting to big for their britches an needed a swift kick in the blank blank...
the word has gone out to many businesses here locally about C&S an their No customer support attitude...this will come back to bite them!

I guess i aint thru with my rant yet.....see pics...look at the over hang on the front of the hauler an the interference with the door.
I can open the door if i put the car on the rail in the front of the trailer...then the weight is all on the truck
 

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Instead of spending $500 to raise the bed of the trailer why don't you just attach a couple of wolmanized (pressure treated) 2 x 10's to the trailer so they are under the tires. You'll get the height you need to open the doors, you'll always have a reference on the trailer where the car should be parked, you'll have it done in a couple hours, and you'll spend maybe $20. Just a thought. BTW, it takes a little trial and error to determine the proper spot for your car on the trailer. Too far forward and the tongue weight on the tow vehicle can be too much. Too far back and the rear of the trailer can sway while the front of the tow vehicle loses some braking and steering. Good luck.

This is the 18' trailer I bought.

http://www.hhtrailer.com/05CarTrailer.asp
 

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Dennis,

Without a doubt I would take the trailer back and get a refund. Find a trailer that doesn't need to be modded, or have boards attached. Either way is a second class fix for poor engineering. But a trailer that the door can be used for an exit without modding the trailer... Cost is about the same, just no re-engineering. And a safer rig overall.

Only had trouble from C & S, I haven't used them in twenty years. Last trailer I bought was custom built and I got it from American something or other on 121 north of Ft. Worth. It and the one before it actually cost hundreds less! Take that Trailer back before it is too late!

David
 

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If you decide to send it back and get another one then call/pm a91cobra (the guy from Shreveport with the blue Mach). He bought his somewhere in OK, but I think that he got if for a pretty good price and he has been pretty happy with it.
 

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yeah i agree, id just get some 2 x 10s and bolt them to the trailer.


Im gonna need a trailer that has a longer ramp up since my front end sits so low, and after the LTs catted H-pipe and catback and HnR ss springs itll sit even lower.
 

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It's the car not the trailer I have seen numerous trailers (including enclosed) that are modifed with twin boards. I modifed my 2003 Ready Built car hauler with 2 12x2 beams bolted to the floor of my trailer for my Bullitt because it sets to low... But is Ok with the my older MACH1

I sure there is trailer some where that would have the taller deck and lower fender, but I don't know where...

Boards are cheaper than removable fender and make loading and unloading easier for alignment.

You can barely see them in the photo below
 
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