Changing struts on my 97...
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The fronts are soooooooooo easy to do!! The hardest thing is pulling the tires I sware!!
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Thanks, Buck. I think I'll try it. I have one guy that'll charge me $100 to do the struts/shocks on the weekend, but with hunting season coming up, I'd have to wait till the first of the year. Another friend of Kujo362 (Kerry) will do it, but Kerry hasn't called me back to set up a time. He wants $150.steelfalcon29 said:
What would you estimate, time wise, it would take me to do it? Remember, I've never done it before (not struts, anyway.)
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Really it's going to take you TOPS 1 hour per side. I say tops because your going to have to jack up the car, take the tire off and of course re-install the wheel/tire. There are two bolts that hold the strut on on the bottom and of course the one nut under the hood.
Just remember that your probably going to have to have her alignment checked. No worries it's not going to be out enough to prevent you from driving her safely to an alignment shop!
To be honest when removing the old ones I don't have a preference as to top or bottom mount points that I start at but when re-installing them I always install the top first, leaving a little loose, then pick the spindle assy. up by hand, install the bottom bolt loosely then just swing it up till the top hole aligns.
I know it probably sounds confusing but I'm telling you, once you do one side the other will take half the time and you'll be kicking yourself for sweating it... if you get into any trouble you have my number!!!
Just remember that your probably going to have to have her alignment checked. No worries it's not going to be out enough to prevent you from driving her safely to an alignment shop!
To be honest when removing the old ones I don't have a preference as to top or bottom mount points that I start at but when re-installing them I always install the top first, leaving a little loose, then pick the spindle assy. up by hand, install the bottom bolt loosely then just swing it up till the top hole aligns.
I know it probably sounds confusing but I'm telling you, once you do one side the other will take half the time and you'll be kicking yourself for sweating it... if you get into any trouble you have my number!!!
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Back at ya. :lol: With some time on my hand I guess I could detail out the instructions on here.BigBullitt said:
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****This is how I have changed them in the past.*****
Sorry but without being in front of a strut I can not tell you for sure what the wrench sizes are so I'll not make an attempt and mislead anyone!
Changing the front struts in great detail:
1. Loosen the wheel lugs.
2. Jack up the car on the side you loosened up said wheel lugs. :lol:
3. Remove the wheel/tire assy.
4. Pop the hood, loosen but do not remove the strut nut protruding from the strut tower. (on the existing one you will need an open/box end wrench of the nut size and either a small open/box end wrench for the actual strut rod or something to hold a back up like channel locks or vise grips).
5. On the spindle side now there are two bolts with three nuts. Remove the upper nut with either open/box end wrench or socket set. This will free up the brake line. Move the brake line to the side out of the way.
6. Now loosen up the top bolt on the strut to spindle mount point and remove it.
7. Now you may need a tie strap, rope, string...etc. something to tie up the spindle if it looks like it's going to put too much strain on the brake lines. Sometimes there is no strain if the bushings and steering knuckles are in good shape. Loosen and remove the bottom bolt on the strut to spindle mount point and let the spindle drop easy.
8. Now that you have the bottom loose completely you should be able to stand back up, grab the strut with one hand thru the wheel well and with the other completely take off the nut where the strut protrudes thru the strut tower and let it drop.
9. Now that the old one is out you can pre-assemble the new one with the supplied hardware and completely reverse the removal procedures to install the new one.
10. Once you have both struts installed I would recommend an alignment check prior to doing any hard or long duration driving. You will not effect the alignment enough to make her pull hard or such but you may effect it just enough to ware out one side of the tire or the other.
I hope maybe this helps someone and if not then it was just a way for me to kill more time while here at work. :lol:
Sorry but without being in front of a strut I can not tell you for sure what the wrench sizes are so I'll not make an attempt and mislead anyone!
Changing the front struts in great detail:
1. Loosen the wheel lugs.
2. Jack up the car on the side you loosened up said wheel lugs. :lol:
3. Remove the wheel/tire assy.
4. Pop the hood, loosen but do not remove the strut nut protruding from the strut tower. (on the existing one you will need an open/box end wrench of the nut size and either a small open/box end wrench for the actual strut rod or something to hold a back up like channel locks or vise grips).
5. On the spindle side now there are two bolts with three nuts. Remove the upper nut with either open/box end wrench or socket set. This will free up the brake line. Move the brake line to the side out of the way.
6. Now loosen up the top bolt on the strut to spindle mount point and remove it.
7. Now you may need a tie strap, rope, string...etc. something to tie up the spindle if it looks like it's going to put too much strain on the brake lines. Sometimes there is no strain if the bushings and steering knuckles are in good shape. Loosen and remove the bottom bolt on the strut to spindle mount point and let the spindle drop easy.
8. Now that you have the bottom loose completely you should be able to stand back up, grab the strut with one hand thru the wheel well and with the other completely take off the nut where the strut protrudes thru the strut tower and let it drop.
9. Now that the old one is out you can pre-assemble the new one with the supplied hardware and completely reverse the removal procedures to install the new one.
10. Once you have both struts installed I would recommend an alignment check prior to doing any hard or long duration driving. You will not effect the alignment enough to make her pull hard or such but you may effect it just enough to ware out one side of the tire or the other.
I hope maybe this helps someone and if not then it was just a way for me to kill more time while here at work. :lol:
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Autozone say's to disconnect the battery. (Something I've never done)
Autozone say's to remove the caliper. (Something that is not needed) This step is only to allow for more room and is not needed to do a change out.
Autozone say's to chain the spring. (Something I've never done BUT if you don't feel comfortable then yeah that could be something you could do but you don't have the use a chain. You could use wire or anything to just insure the spring don't move out of it's spot).
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801cf39a
Autozone say's to remove the caliper. (Something that is not needed) This step is only to allow for more room and is not needed to do a change out.
Autozone say's to chain the spring. (Something I've never done BUT if you don't feel comfortable then yeah that could be something you could do but you don't have the use a chain. You could use wire or anything to just insure the spring don't move out of it's spot).
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801cf39a
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hey david,
here is a link that gives you instructions and pictures of how to change springs on your struts. if you are going to simply take out your existing struts and replace them with new strut units, then you will have no problems. i've already done the rears, and the fronts are next for me too. you can do it! here you go:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpost.php?p=5035435&postcount=2
cheers, brother.
here is a link that gives you instructions and pictures of how to change springs on your struts. if you are going to simply take out your existing struts and replace them with new strut units, then you will have no problems. i've already done the rears, and the fronts are next for me too. you can do it! here you go:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpost.php?p=5035435&postcount=2
cheers, brother.
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Mission Accomplished
No aircraft carrier to stand on to announce that, however. I did run into some issues. The top nut that holds the strut parts to the strut had a notch tapped into it to make sure it didn't back out at some point. Done at the factory, no doubt. The driver side bolt came off with a little difficulty but the passenger side wouldn't budge. I ended up having to grind it off on the bench grinder. I think without those problems, it would have taken me about 2 hours. 3 hours and 4 busted knuckles later, I had it completed.
Thanks for all your help. Would I do it again? Not till the fingers heal, at least. :wink: That and I've got to get me some larger metric sockets.
No aircraft carrier to stand on to announce that, however. I did run into some issues. The top nut that holds the strut parts to the strut had a notch tapped into it to make sure it didn't back out at some point. Done at the factory, no doubt. The driver side bolt came off with a little difficulty but the passenger side wouldn't budge. I ended up having to grind it off on the bench grinder. I think without those problems, it would have taken me about 2 hours. 3 hours and 4 busted knuckles later, I had it completed.
Thanks for all your help. Would I do it again? Not till the fingers heal, at least. :wink: That and I've got to get me some larger metric sockets.
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