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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a page in archives about flush and fill?

What is necessary to do the job and should we update to the red coolant?

Where is the thermostat?

What is the best way to do a complete flush?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah, I can see I should have looked first. That is an amazing tutorial. Nice job!

Why should we stay with the old-style green coolant?

And, where is the thermostat on a Bullitt?

Does the temperature sensor measure the temp in the radiator or the block? Based on your description, is sounds like it's the radiator.

Maybe we should start a poll here but:

TOO ALL, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU CHANGED YOUR COOLANT?
 

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Even easier, bring it to your Ford dealer and have them power flush it, to get out all the crap in the heater core as well. I think I paid about $100.00, but it sure was easy!
 

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Twice for me. Just did it again at 80K. Thermostat is on top of the intake where the upper radiator hose connects. . Don't know about the red stuff. Best to talk to Ford about that. Hey for $100 why hassle with it. If you don't catch all of the old coolant and it drains to the street, you could end up getting fined by the city etc. Also any dogs or cats the come along and drink it it will kill them. Not worth the trouble for me.
 

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Just got mine flushed and refilled 50/50 with Shell and distilled water and also got the AC serviced all for 177.00 (not at Ford)!
 

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Just had mine done last week at a local Ford Dealership. Simple drain and fill is what they suggested with 31,000. Debated on doing the flush and fill but took their advice. Hope I made the right decision. $52 with tax.
 

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droopysbullitt said:
Also any dogs or cats the come along and drink it it will kill them. Not worth the trouble for me.
So where is the problem in that?

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had my Ford dealer do the work because the tech was really into Mustangs. I paid $79 and the job was very clean. Ford coolant.

I was surprised that the tech recommended staying with the green coolant rather than going to the newer type.
 

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okay, sorry to jump in and switch subjects... but anyone got an idea how f$%^ed i am here? I did the whole drain and flush on my Bullitt tonight... but as i was screwing the drain plug into the radiator on the bottom, it broke off...

anyone know if the plug is replaceable? how to do it? how easy/hard? i only hope i don't need to just club myself with a sharp heavy tool... :sad: :cry:

any ideas?

shaun
 

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You have to stick with what it came with. Green and Gold have different compounds for lubrication depending on the coating on the cooling system components. After years of using Preston I switched to Zerex, 5 years or 150,000 miles. Prestone is claiming thiers is suitable for all types which is a stretch, FORD says NO to the universal antifreeze.

Sniperstang, I believe the drain plug will back out the entire way. The main thing now is getting the broken piece out. Depending on the break I might try glueing the piece back on, letting it set 24 hours and then trying to back it out. Other wise with the limited room you may be looking at pulling the radiator.

I would Check out Lowes they have some epoxy by Loctite for ABS plastic. The one for 7 minutes set does not have the same strength as the 20 (20 something) minute set time. IT is like 4 times the strength.

Had to go out and check, looks like if you had to you would have room to drill it and use an easy out on it. I was thinking there was not enough room to work.

Rock auto has them also Motormite makes them so most part stores should have something that will work if you can get the broken one out.
 

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PhotoRick said:
I had my Ford dealer do the work because the tech was really into Mustangs. I paid $79 and the job was very clean. Ford coolant.

I was surprised that the tech recommended staying with the green coolant rather than going to the newer type.
I don't know for sure Rick,
but I really, really, really think that you should stick with the "Dark Highland Green"! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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okay thanks for the info Mid Life, got the broken piece out and it did not damage the radiators' threads... so i was able to get a new one from CarQuest Auto Parts, and for only $6.00, the problem is solved!!

thanks again for the info, i would have been much worse off if the threads had been broken or damaged to the point of needing to remove radiator, but i came out VERY lucky!

shaun
 

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SniperStang said:
okay thanks for the info Mid Life, got the broken piece out and it did not damage the radiators' threads... so i was able to get a new one from CarQuest Auto Parts, and for only $6.00, the problem is solved!!

thanks again for the info, i would have been much worse off if the threads had been broken or damaged to the point of needing to remove radiator, but i came out VERY lucky!

shaun
Sweeeet!

Thanks for the info guy's!!
 
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