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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that much has been discussed about our trannies and shifters. I have noticed that unless I make a real smooth transition with the clutch during the shifts that there is a clunking sensation during the shift - like would happen with someone just learning to shift a stick. I didn't think much of it until I drove Sam Strano's 2005 Mustang GT last week with the stock GT shifter - and it did not exhibit any of this clunking. Anyone else notice this?
 

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Most likely the result of the two piece driveshaft. I feel sure that sam has a one piece in his car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
JackDW - 852 said:
Most likely the result of the two piece driveshaft. I feel sure that sam has a one piece in his car.

Sam tells me his daily driver is all stock other than the Magna Flow and the Konis. So you think that it is the two piece driveshaft that causes the clunking in the Bullitt?
 

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Dodging Bullitt said:
So you think that it is the two piece driveshaft that causes the clunking in the Bullitt?
I cannot say for sure it is the two-piece driveshaft, but that is the consensus around here.

What I have found is the easier I shift, the more prone the B is to making that clunking noise. If I shift quickly or somewhat aggressively, I rarely, if ever, hear that clunk.

Try it and see if you experience the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Big Daddy said:
I cannot say for sure it is the two-piece driveshaft, but that is the consensus around here.

What I have found is the easier I shift, the more prone the B is to making that clunking noise. If I shift quickly or somewhat aggressively, I rarely, if ever, hear that clunk.

Try it and see if you experience the same.
I would say that is my experience also. But has anyone noticed this clunking noise from the two-piece driveshaft with the regular GT?
 

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I get the clunking also with slow shifts. Seems the harder I shift 3054 the less clunking noise there is.
 

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could be the pinion bearing not set correctly from the factory, will give slop in the driveshaft.
 

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Never shift without smoke coming from the tires and you'll never hear it. :lol:
 

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Frankenstang said:
could be the pinion bearing not set correctly from the factory, will give slop in the driveshaft.
Probably not. If that were the case the grease would eventually all leak out.
 

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The more I think about this, the more I would believe this to be Driveline or Drivetrain lash. Not just the two-piece driveshaft.

This condition could be primarily associated with the driveshaft or even the U-joints, but more than likely the clunking is a combination of all the “loose” tolerances in the driveline. That is why it is more pronounced in slower shifts because the driveline components relax somewhat and then these tolerances are taken up once the shift engages. Hence, the clunk :shock:

On the contrary, during those aggressive shifts the driveline does not experience this ‘relaxing’ of the tolerances. Therefore, the lack of clunk :lol:

Not very scientific and I don’t have any data or reference to back-up this hypothesis. Just speculative thought. So take it for what it’s worth and keep in mind; anything without data is merely an opinion ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input - that all makes sense. So the regular Mustang GT must do the same with the easier shifting. Just another reason to drive the Bullitt like I stole it.
 

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I've been chasing this clunk also, and yes GT's have it also.
I dont think the D/shaft has anything to do with it.
At 1st I thought it was pinion pre-load, plus mine had a slight wine (rear axle..dif)
so no big deal my plan was 4.10 gears then I'll check it out when I do the gears.
When i pulled it apart to do my gears all seemed well, pre-load was fine along with
a nice gear pattern.
Put back together the wine was gone but still had the clunk!
So pulled it back apart and reset my back-lash to 7k from 11k, still have the clunk!
Pulled it back apart again, this time I notice the spider gears on the cross shaft
seem a bit loose, which in turn put slop in the entire diff!
I've been workin on axles and setting gears for years and this has me ticked off!
I do have a 1 piece shaft and all polly bushings.
With 1 upper control arm sitting on top of the diff noise is a issue!
Anyway my next move is to trash the stock L/S diff and replace it with a
gear driven Trutrac.
At $450 just for the Trutrac I'm not happy, not to mention I gotta pull it apart again.
Needless to say I'm determined to smooth out my rear end!
Stay tuned for my results.
Gene
 

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wabirch said:
Gene
Your painful diagnosis will help us all. Keep us posted and good luck.
Hey if I could get 450 guy's to send me a buck, I'll get right on it!:wink:
Really though, I may order one up this week and have it by the weekend?
If all else fails the Trutrac is a very nice upgrade from the clutch packs!
 

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StvMcQueen said:
Probably not. If that were the case the grease would eventually all leak out.
not true as the pinion bearing has to be pre-loaded to a certain spec and if it is not, there is slop, but the seal is still there and you don't have any leakage. I know, cause mine had this until the gears were put in and the Ford mechanic is the one that told me what was going on which according to him was common from the factory.
 

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my car has the same issues with only 3000 miles on the clock. Do i need to get ford to look at it??? Because the tires are fairly low (some one told me to break in it in like I stole it) and I dont want them to say i broke it driving hard. With all the burnout commercials who cant light them up once in a while...but anyways were do you find a light weight one peice alum drive shaft cheap. I used to buy the FRPP for foxes @ like 250 bucks but cant seem to find one under 600 @ summitt...any help???
 

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dalemllns said:
my car has the same issues with only 3000 miles on the clock. Do i need to get ford to look at it??? Because the tires are fairly low (some one told me to break in it in like I stole it) and I dont want them to say i broke it driving hard. With all the burnout commercials who cant light them up once in a while...but anyways were do you find a light weight one peice alum drive shaft cheap. I used to buy the FRPP for foxes @ like 250 bucks but cant seem to find one under 600 @ summitt...any help???
Call Chandler at BRENSPEED as they sell two different Aluminum Drive Shafts.

Phone number is in my sig.

Can't hurt to check .......

tigerhonaker
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
dalemllns said:
my car has the same issues with only 3000 miles on the clock. Do i need to get ford to look at it??? Because the tires are fairly low (some one told me to break in it in like I stole it) and I dont want them to say i broke it driving hard. With all the burnout commercials who cant light them up once in a while...but anyways were do you find a light weight one peice alum drive shaft cheap. I used to buy the FRPP for foxes @ like 250 bucks but cant seem to find one under 600 @ summitt...any help???
Dale

But from what I'm reading in the posts above, the clunking might NOT be from the 2-piece drive shaft. In particular, read the post of Genius who has a one-piece and still experiences the clunking. And from a past thread I read that Ford may have installed the 2-piece drive shaft for safety reasons at high speed. So you may want to consider doing a little research first before you spend the big bucks on a one-piece.
 

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Dodging Bullitt said:
Dale

But from what I'm reading in the posts above, the clunking might NOT be from the 2-piece drive shaft. In particular, read the post of Genius who has a one-piece and still experiences the clunking. And from a past thread I read that Ford may have installed the 2-piece drive shaft for safety reasons at high speed. So you may want to consider doing a little research first before you spend the big bucks on a one-piece.
Hi AL,

Interesting that I and I'm sure others here if they pay attention have that Clunk when

shifting as the Drive-Train locks into place after the Shift.

Mine has almost Completely went away after I had the DF (Dual Friction) Centerforce Clutch

installed.

Also mine started that CLUNK after I did (Or Tried) to do a DRY Burn-Out with Collin on a

Newly Paved Concrete interstate.

I could not get the tires to break Loose and finally took the RPM way Up and then the tires

broke loose but it was really HARD on my Stock Clutch.

After that I had this Small CLUNK as I shifted through the gears as the drive train Locked

into place.

So, I don't really think it is necessarily the 2-Piece Drive Shaft.

As I have the "Dynotech" Aluminum Drive Shaft and FRPP 4:10 Gears.

May very well be a combination of "All" the Drive Line Components working together.

Plus, honestly I think it is also caused by our driving habits.

Especially if we are doing much of the Hard Snatching in Gears from take off.


tigerhonaker
 
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