[spectreman]

About 3-4 weeks ago, I noticed that my '08 had developed a clunking noise coming from the rear end. Car rode fine, no performance issues, just the damn clunk. I figured it was an exhaust hanger issue so I brought it to my favorite, local muffler shop. He put it up on the rack, examined the exhaust system, which was fully intact, but that's when I noticed it.

I'm looking at the aftermarket support arm that attaches the sway bar to the frame and notice the bushings have split. I give it a nudge and sure enough, the sway bar is moving around. Ok, problem seen and identified, but then I notice the support arm itself, a thick piece of billet aluminum, is CRACKED. Holy moly! I thought these pieces were nigh on indestructible, certainly stronger than OE, and yet I've now been proven otherwise.

Mindya, I NEVER race my car, it never gets tracked and I don't do burnouts either. The amount of torque that it would take to literally break this piece must've been significant- just can't imagine what caused it. She's my daily driver so I keep her in pristine condition.

Anyway, I've ordered a Ford Performance Sway Bar Hardware Kit off American Muscle and will be replacing both sides next week. After the broken piece is off, I'll snap some pics and post.
Lee

 

[Shlade]

Sounds about right. Pretty common issue on these cars. I put on a set of Steeda end links on my car and already feels a lot better.

 

[spectreman]

Don't know why it would be common. I guess if I was spinning wheels or racing, perhaps, but daily driving? No. Billet aluminum? No.

 

[short circuit]

Lot of junk out there regardless of brand. Rear sway bar doesn't need billet attachment. Just stick with OEM piece

 

[spectreman]

Nope, ordered the Ford Performance pack for it, also billet aluminum. Hope these work better than the ones currently on the car.

 

[spectreman]

Ok, all fixed. All I paid was the install time and it's all good now- no more clunking!
Lee

 

[Brian09]

Lot of junk out there regardless of brand. Rear sway bar doesn't need billet attachment. Just stick with OEM piece

But they look so cool,cmon man!😂

 

[spectreman]

By the way, OE will not fit aftermarket (like STEEDA) or Ford Performance sway bars.
Lee

 

[VIC-TIM]

is the car lowered?

 

[spectreman]

Ayup, it most assuredly is.

 

[VIC-TIM]

could be what caused the break.

 

[spectreman]

Don't know why it would. Loads of cars have lowered suspensions, bigger sway bars and aftermarket links. I think it was just likely a faulty piece that was manufactured w/cracks that, over time, gave way.

 

[VIC-TIM]

could very well be. I remember reading that these cars, once lowered, need to have adjustments made to the other rear component as the geometry changes and puts stress on the stock locations of some of the attachments. possibly somone else on here that has personal experience with these suspensions can chime in.

 

[short circuit]

But they look so cool,cmon man!😂 View attachment 87926 View attachment 87926

Looks way cool yes. Thicker/stiffer rear sway bar makes the car over-steer, I can't have that in the canyon or hard cornering. I need rear to grip with some flex. Changing the worn rear bushings and putting below collars works for me. Our cars doesn't need lot of help in the rear in my opinion so I keep it simple.

20MM Double Split 2-PC Clamp Shaft Collar Steel, Black Oxide NEW 2 PK | eBay

Screws M6x16.

www.ebay.com

 

[spectreman]

I live in FLA- we don't have canyons here. But oversteer due to larger sway bars? Hardly. The car rides/handles great, much better than stock overall.

 

[B3NN3TT]

Yep - I autocross my 08 with the Ohio Valley SCCA on the regular with a big ol' Steeda rear sway bar, and haven't swapped ends yet. It DRASTICALLY reduces the push, and is, in my estimation, a much better setup for a driver who is alert and regularly seeks the limit. It's easy to counter-steer a little every now and then to maintain your line, but when you're in a dead push situation, there's nothing that will save you.

 

[Brian09]

I live in FLA- we don't have canyons here. But oversteer due to larger sway bars? Hardly. The car rides/handles great, much better than stock overall.

Works for me too, I can tight curve at 50 to 55 an it runs on rails, I don’t dare push it faster.😁

Looks way cool yes. Thicker/stiffer rear sway bar makes the car over-steer, I can't have that in the canyon or hard cornering. I need rear to grip with some flex. Changing the worn rear bushings and putting below collars works for me. Our cars doesn't need lot of help in the rear in my opinion so I keep it simple.

20MM Double Split 2-PC Clamp Shaft Collar Steel, Black Oxide NEW 2 PK | eBay

Screws M6x16.

www.ebay.com

I really don’t mash my brakes and turn hard into a curve at all, so I don’t load up my front end, I run Goodyear f1’s and kinda know how far they will go before they lose grip,
but your set up works for how hard you drive in the turn, but I never had any complaints with the steeda suspension.
best, Brian

 

[short circuit]

I am glad you got it fixed and all is well. I heard really good things about ford performance and steeds suspension package. It’s always good idea to stick with one manufacturer.