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Here's my "next step":



A couple of things on what and why I did it. First of all, I managed to stuff 3" ducting in there. I'm sure 2.5" would have been sufficient, but the 3" ducting was minimally more expensive and I built it myself, so there was no "premium" for the larger ducting beyond material cost. As you can see, the rotor is actually uncovered and the air is directed toward the center of the rotor. The reason for doing this is that the air is able to cool the entire rotor rather than just one part of one side. The air is all drawn/forced through the vents in the rotor rather than directed at only the inside surfaces. There is theoretically less temperature difference across the rotor and therefore less chance of warpage than if you're directing air at only one spot on one side of the rotor. One other thing you can see (at least partially) is the ball joint shield that Bill was talking about. This prevents the ball joint rubber from getting direct heat from the rotor. I'm pulling air through the lower grille where I modified it by opening up holes toward the outside of the insert where there are conveniently openings in the front bumper cover. It's fairly crude underneath, but it's not really noticeable from the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Nicely done! That should work super. That's how we did them on the race cars. The NASCAR boys use like 3 hoses with fans on road courses, two for the brakes and one to keep the rim cool. They can only use 15" wheels so they have to get rid of a lot of heat. They use wide rotors and pads that are super thick and rated to like 1700 F.
 

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Steve-Excellent work there on the brake ducts and ball joint shields. We both ended up with the same result. Do your shields 360 cover the rotor vents. The JLT are about 180 on the rotor vents. The rotor brake surface is open on mine.
I used the same opening on the bumper cover for the intake, just it is covered by a billet grill (got tired of cleaning the honeycomb).
Since install, I have found less early spider cracking and longer rotor life.
 

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Here's my "next step":



A couple of things on what and why I did it. First of all, I managed to stuff 3" ducting in there. I'm sure 2.5" would have been sufficient, but the 3" ducting was minimally more expensive and I built it myself, so there was no "premium" for the larger ducting beyond material cost. As you can see, the rotor is actually uncovered and the air is directed toward the center of the rotor. The reason for doing this is that the air is able to cool the entire rotor rather than just one part of one side. The air is all drawn/forced through the vents in the rotor rather than directed at only the inside surfaces. There is theoretically less temperature difference across the rotor and therefore less chance of warpage than if you're directing air at only one spot on one side of the rotor. One other thing you can see (at least partially) is the ball joint shield that Bill was talking about. This prevents the ball joint rubber from getting direct heat from the rotor. I'm pulling air through the lower grille where I modified it by opening up holes toward the outside of the insert where there are conveniently openings in the front bumper cover. It's fairly crude underneath, but it's not really noticeable from the outside.
Very cool have you thought of making them for the 01s. i need to do this on mine.
 
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Discussion Starter #25
Ed
Sometime, if you have a minute, reply here as to what you've done to your car for the track so far?
 

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Ed
Sometime, if you have a minute, reply here as to what you've done to your car for the track so far?
On my 01 i have slotted rotors and EBC yellow stuff pads, Stainless steel brake lines, 18" Saleen replica wheels. Hankook tires. the suspension i have Bilsteins all around, BMR rear lower control arms. Timspeed rear upper control arms. (brackets welded in like the ford racing ones) BMR spherical rear differential bushings. Still running the stock sway bars and springs. 373 Gears and JLT cold air intake. Hurst short throw shifter, M.M. caster camber plates, Spec Clutch that i hate and will be replacing soon. Steeda g force bar rear shock bar. other than that basically stock. want to get a harness bar for the car and redo the driver seat as it is showing wear.
 
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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks, sounds like a good set up! Haven't heard much good about Spec clutches.
You should find out who makes the clutches for the twin disc unit in the new GT and Bullit? mcleod??
 

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Very cool have you thought of making them for the 01s. i need to do this on mine.
I haven't really thought of doing any others. I was fortunate enough to have access to a CAD program and a laser cutter, so getting them designed and the pieces cut out wasn't too difficult. The trickiest part was getting the 3" tube crushed to the obround shape without destroying the roundness on the end the hose gets connected to.

Steve-Excellent work there on the brake ducts and ball joint shields. We both ended up with the same result. Do your shields 360 cover the rotor vents. The JLT are about 180 on the rotor vents. The rotor brake surface is open on mine.
I used the same opening on the bumper cover for the intake, just it is covered by a billet grill (got tired of cleaning the honeycomb).
Since install, I have found less early spider cracking and longer rotor life.
Here's a picture of when it was in the prototype stage (cut out paper pieces from printouts):



The shield covers approximately the same area that the factory shield did, minus the cover directly over the braking surface. It's basically everything minus the area the brake caliper takes up. I ended up making the ball joint shield a little bit smaller than what my prototype was. I tried to get the lip as close to the rotor surface as I could without making contact when it flexes. So far I haven't noticed any rubbing.
 

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Complete track setup? You mean 17 year old hardware from ford right? ;)

Yall have me thinking I need to spend my $1000 on upgrading my car instead of signing up to run Circuit of the Americas.

Better get out of here before my run it like you brung it mentality wears off LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Kurtis
Springs, torsional sway bars, and geometry have been around a lot longer than 17 years. If what you've got works for you then run COA as is. Just make sure you've got reliable brakes and tires, and can pass tech.
 

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Thanks to Bill, I’ve taken up the track addiction as well. Sadly, I don’t get out there as much as I’d like to due to work and family commitments. I’ve run my 01’ mostly stock, except for upgraded brake pads, a MRT CAI intake, and 93 tune. After running at Carolina Motorsports Park with Ed and Bill last fall, I decided to upgrade the suspension components. I upgraded to Steeda upper and lower rear control arms, Steeda front and rear sway bars, along with their Sport Springs (250lb progressive rate rear, 650 lb linear rate front), offset front steering rack bushings, Steeda X2 ball joints, Steeda’s upgraded front sway bar mounts, along with their bumpsteer kit, CC plates, and k-member brace. I upgraded to Koni Sport adjustable shocks and had all bushings replaced with poly units. I upgraded to braided brake lines, EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads, and slotted rotors. I added a 3” Kenny Brown brake duct cooling kit. I finished it off with an MGW shifter. I haven’t had an opportunity to take it to the track since the upgrades. I can’t wait. Overall, the ride quality is still good. This is important since 3213 is a daily driver as well as a weekend cruiser.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Wow, you went all in when you decided to upgrade! Hope you can really notice the improvements when you get to the track.
 

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I was originally thinking of only upgrading a few things, but then I decided to upgrade several items at once so that the parts would compliment each other better. I tried to keep with the same manufacturer for the same reason. It seems to handle a lot better with the new components, but I won’t be able to fully evaluate it until I make it to the track again. I’m still on the fence about 200 vs 300 utqg tires. I know 200 will be better on track, but since I daily drive the car I’m concerned about the trade offs (primarily wet handling for Florida summer rains). I’d love to hear thoughts from others who have driven on both extensively.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Because the 200 are softer, you will get better grip all around, depending on the tread pattern. I like the Michelins, I think Bill uses them as well. Mine are Pilot Sport AS-3, I think the newer one is AS-4? Mine are 500's but I think there is Pilot Sport Cup and they are 300 or 200. Check Tire Rack, they have all the specs and choices. I've never driven the car in the rain, so I'm not much help there.
Here's 3 well known in the 200-300 wear range: Pirelli P Zero, Continental Conti Sport, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. They are all $200+ a piece.
 

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Thanks for the recommendations! I’ve been running Michelin Pilot Super Sports for awhile and love them. Great grip, nice ride, and fairly quiet. Also very good in rain. They handle very predictably on track but give up a bit of grip when pushed hard for 20 min, as expected. They also last for a very long time for how well they handle (~30k). The newer Pilot Sport 4s is the tire I am thinking of eventually replacing them with. Options for extreme performance 245/45/17 have become limited due to lowered popularity in that size. I would like to keep the stock 17x8 on the car due to 1) clearance is already tight with the Steeda components (a steering rack limiter was necessary on one side to prevent the tire from contacting the sway bar), and 2) I trust the strength of the OEM wheels over many of the potentially poorly cast aftermarket options. The Dunlop Direza Star Spec 2 is being phased out and the RE-71R has too short life a life for a DD tire for their high cost (despite supposedly being an awesome gripping but noisy tire). I was considering the Falken Azenna RT615k+. The newer “+” is supposed to be an excellent gripping tire that is liveable for DD. Plus, they’re pretty cheap so I don’t mind replacing them more often if they wear poorly.
 

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Hi, I will chime in about hollow_point and his daily driver/HPDE 01 Bullitt. But first I plead guilty about being his track crack dealer.
Brian is a scientist by trade, researching all. He totally balances the razor's edge in mods between daily driver and road course racer. The recent mod's are excellent, with the advice of Steeda and me, maintaining the balance of daily driver and track machine, especially since his wife rides shotgun locally. (Wife got Brian a pair of track driving shoes... and a new life insurance policy.)

UTOG is a measure of wear within the maker's tyre models. UTOG does not translate exactly between other maker's models.

I agree on quality rims. Especially with just 1 set for daily driver and road course. And as one goes wider rims, the law of unintended consequences of vehicle modifications kicks in.

If you like the Michelins, stick with them. Looks like the Sport 4S are the successor to the Super Sports. 300 UTOG is a good overall rating for the balance of daily driver/road course.

BLLTT runs 3 wheel sets.
Michelin Sport A/S3 on the OEM Bullitt rims for local and road trips. (UTOG 500). Good in rain and all conditions. Comfortable. Yes, it gets cold in N FL and BLLTT does run north to VA during the winter. Good overall tyre.
BFG Sport Comp 2 (UTOG 340) to go to the track, wet or cool weather on the track. Chew them up at the price point.
BFG R-1 for the track, dry and warm weather. But have to get pressure dialed in for the day.
 

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Thanks for the feedback, Bill. And also, thank you for admitting to your track-crack dealing ways. You're a very effective dealer. Too effective if I'm honest.

You're right in that I analyze and overthink pretty much everything. I guess that's why I enjoy being a scientist--I get my fix that way. You're also probably spot on regarding the Michelin Pilot 4s tires. For the 1-2 times I get to the track during the year, they offer better DD compliance. I can't say I've ever really been disappointed at the track with the Pilot Super Sports, which probably has a lot to due with my lack of driving skills to push them hard enough. They've always been very predictable. They're also a pleasure to daily with as they're exceptionally quiet and have a nice ride quality to boot. I guess that's why they've become the industry standard on most OEM sport models. The reason for considering the rt615k+ was knowing that I might be able to pick up a bit more grip on track. Reviews seem to suggest they're pretty decent at DD as well. The Falkens run $553 a set to Michelins $847, so the price is right. Although I don't have a problem with higher cost tires if it means higher quality. I've never driven a car with Falkens in the past, but the new(ish) "+" intrigue me. Perhaps TireRack will conduct a test with the tires soon so I have some idea on how they compare to the 4s, despite being in a difference performance category.
 
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