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Don't recommend oil additives.
Engine Tick?
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When I bought my 2008 Bullitt it had a bad tic, I opened the trunk and there was a bottle of oil additive that they had been using, was thick like Karo syrup, I changed the oil immediately and threw that crap in the trash.
It ended up being a frozen lash adjuster that eventually took out the rocker arm, it was a $20.00 fix and they probably spent that much on the oil additive.
I even took it to a highly recommended mechanic that told me that I had a cracked piston, it just sounded like a bad rocker arm to me, once the valve cover was off the problem was clearly obvious, so I just fixed myself.
There is no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle.
Gary
It ended up being a frozen lash adjuster that eventually took out the rocker arm, it was a $20.00 fix and they probably spent that much on the oil additive.
I even took it to a highly recommended mechanic that told me that I had a cracked piston, it just sounded like a bad rocker arm to me, once the valve cover was off the problem was clearly obvious, so I just fixed myself.
There is no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle.
Gary
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Brother-in-law who worked with a major oil company once told me, "If you think your motor oil needs an additive, get another motor oil, not an additive".
Sure sounded like wisdom to me.
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Our gas is questionable, so a fuel additive is not ridiculous, but the motor oils are pretty much excellent from all major refiners.
I had a good friend who was a mechanic and drag raced cars. He knew engines better than anyone I ever knew. He solely believe that the only thing you should put in your engine was oil and the best maintenance was an oil change. I was at his shop before he passed away and he had an engine torn down that someone put Slick 50 in and it was like they tossed a grenade into the engine. My belief is run the right oil, a good filter, and change it every 3000 miles.
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I’m very upset, car only has 500 miles and now has the piston rattle, this is completely unacceptable, when you are just driving around normally you have to listen to this annoying rattle instead of the exhaust which is why I bought the car, pure bs Ford, my Boss 302 never made this noise, wish I had it back, love the Bullitt otherwise, don’t know what to do, ugh
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Might want to check this out
https://www.imboc.com/forums/457-19...here%92s-physical-evidence-engine-rattle.html
https://www.imboc.com/forums/457-19...here%92s-physical-evidence-engine-rattle.html
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The noise will be most noticeable during light acceleration in the 1500-3000 RPM range and may also be noticeable in the 800-1200 RPM range with neutral throttle blips.
This sound is caused by the piston motion in the cylinder bore.
This is an inherent characteristic of the forged aluminum pistons utilized in this high performance engine. Ford has issued this owner memo, whatever that is, for the Shelby GT 350 anyways, probably for all coyote based engines
This sound is caused by the piston motion in the cylinder bore.
This is an inherent characteristic of the forged aluminum pistons utilized in this high performance engine. Ford has issued this owner memo, whatever that is, for the Shelby GT 350 anyways, probably for all coyote based engines
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Voodoo, whoo hooo. Now it's Voodoo boo hoo.
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That is specific only to the GT350 since the 5.2L has the forged pistons, while the 5.0L does not. You might be hearing a noise that is thought to be from a different source. There is a TSB that was released for the 5.0L in the F150 that was supposed to reduce the noise from cam phasers. There is nothing released yet for the Mustang's 5.0L.
I have what sounds like rattling at part throttle condition between 2000-3000RPM, especially in the lower gears. If you accelerate normally, I don't get the noise. Is that what you are experiencing?
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Just curious about the rattle. What Octane gas are you using? Could this be pre-ignition (pinging)? Maybe the Knock-Sensor are not doing their job. Do you have the same problem with high octane as well as regular gas? Maybe try a bottle of "Octane Booster" just to see if it has any impact.
Just thinking a little "outside the box" here. I don't really think that is the issue but something that can be eliminated fairly easy.
Just thinking a little "outside the box" here. I don't really think that is the issue but something that can be eliminated fairly easy.
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26 Posts
I used "Octane Booster" myself when I had my 2007 Shelby GT500 and I started have problems the Computer found code P0171 – System too lean. Ford analyze engine and found it had to replace the two oxygen sensors they were both completely orange rust color. NEVER use octane boosters!
Joe
Joe
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Here are two pictures of the Oxygen Sensors that I found in computer
Joe
Joe
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Thanks Joe.
The last time I used Octane Booster was on an older car that didn't have Oxygen Sensors. Heck, in that car, I also had to use a "lead" replacement additive.
The last time I used Octane Booster was on an older car that didn't have Oxygen Sensors. Heck, in that car, I also had to use a "lead" replacement additive.
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Most octane boosters are ethanol and MMT which was banned from gasoline a while back. It's the MMT that causes the build up on O2 sensors and can foul spark plugs. At $7 a bottle, just put the premium fuel in.
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I only put premium fuel in my Bullitt and while I did hear a tick when I first got the car, I haven't heard it after 1k miles. Already got my first oil change and that didn't seem to make a difference either, since some people have mentioned noises getting worse after an oil change. No idea if fuel quality is a possible reason, but I agree with 4404, just get premium fuel instead of finding additives.
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Hi All
New to the forum.
Sorry to hijack this thread
I have my 2020 Bullitt ( Europe less powerful edition ) and really happy with it. Only has 5300km and still hasn’t had its first service yet.
no ticking noise so to speak when the car is idling.
but when the engine is warm and I pull away, whether it be 1st or Reverse I can hear this terrible rattle or ticking noise until the car gets up to speed.
I can hear it rebounding off walls.
it almost sounds like...
Imagine you are releasing the clutch and your close to stalling and you get that ticking noise with a wobble it’s just like that.
does anyone have the same symptoms as me.
thanks for your help.
New to the forum.
Sorry to hijack this thread
I have my 2020 Bullitt ( Europe less powerful edition ) and really happy with it. Only has 5300km and still hasn’t had its first service yet.
no ticking noise so to speak when the car is idling.
but when the engine is warm and I pull away, whether it be 1st or Reverse I can hear this terrible rattle or ticking noise until the car gets up to speed.
I can hear it rebounding off walls.
it almost sounds like...
Imagine you are releasing the clutch and your close to stalling and you get that ticking noise with a wobble it’s just like that.
does anyone have the same symptoms as me.
thanks for your help.
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6,392 Posts
Hello! Do you hear it in any other gears?
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