Mustang Bullitt Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,853 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Especially centrifugal, what rpm are you guys launching at? I'm finally getting good weather this Wed (allegedly) so I plan on making a few passes. I've played around on our street at work (private road about 1/8 mile long) and cant go full throttle in first gear at all, rolling start or no. I know epping is much stickier than this road, so I'm hoping that a 1500-2000rpm lauch will get me hooked up before the boost starts to take over. Any suggestions? Am I just going to have to 3/4 throttle out of first and possibly second? Part 2 is will I have the discpline to actually do that....John R :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,000 Posts
I'm not a forced induction guy, nor has my B ever seen track duty, but I do have some experience racing with my old fox coupe, so maybe I can lend a little advice. Are you running on street tires, DRs, or slicks? If street tires, you are really going to have to baby it out of the hole. Before staging, go around the water box, not through it. Water will get trapped in your tread and all you will do is sling it all in your rear wheels wells and have it drip on your tires at the starting line, causing nothing but spin at the hit. Just do a quick burnout to knock the grime off the tires and proceed to stage. You will want to slip the clutch off the line cause those street tires will just blow off. Once you start feeling them hook, floor it. If you have to peddle it a little, that's fine. I was able to muster a 1.9 60' on Uniroyal Tiger Paws with stock heated springs, and I'm sure yo have better tires and suspension than that.
If using DRs, I still don't recommend going through the water box unless they are MTs. If they aren't MTs, just back up to where others have dragged water out of the box and do your burnout right there. Launching technique will be much the same as with street tires, except they should hook up much faster.
If using slicks, just go to the floor and make it hook!

Remember to play with tire pressures and such. They can make a pretty substantial difference. If using DRs, I would start with 18-20 psi cold and adjust from there. Be sure to post up your results! Happy racing!

On edit: I really don't recommend going directly through the water box unles you are running front runners. The water will get trapped in the front tread and drop on the line. When you accelerate from the line and your rear tires hit the water left behind, it can make for a pretty wild ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,853 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
4fit? said:
I'm not a forced induction guy, nor has my B ever seen track duty, but I do have some experience racing with my old fox coupe, so maybe I can lend a little advice. Are you running on street tires, DRs, or slicks? If street tires, you are really going to have to baby it out of the hole. Before staging, go around the water box, not through it. Water will get trapped in your tread and all you will do is sling it all in your rear wheels wells and have it drip on your tires at the starting line, causing nothing but spin at the hit. Just do a quick burnout to knock the grime off the tires and proceed to stage. You will want to slip the clutch off the line cause those street tires will just blow off. Once you start feeling them hook, floor it. If you have to peddle it a little, that's fine. I was able to muster a 1.9 60' on Uniroyal Tiger Paws with stock heated springs, and I'm sure yo have better tires and suspension than that.
If using DRs, I still don't recommend going through the water box unless they are MTs. If they aren't MTs, just back up to where others have dragged water out of the box and do your burnout right there. Launching technique will be much the same as with street tires, except they should hook up much faster.
If using slicks, just go to the floor and make it hook!

Remember to play with tire pressures and such. They can make a pretty substantial difference. If using DRs, I would start with 18-20 psi cold and adjust from there. Be sure to post up your results! Happy racing!

On edit: I really don't recommend going directly through the water box unles you are running front runners. The water will get trapped in the front tread and drop on the line. When you accelerate from the line and your rear tires hit the water left behind, it can make for a pretty wild ride.
Thanks Jeff-Good tips for sure. My last trip down was in a N02 aided small block chevy in a '71 Z-28. I couldn't do any better than 2.4 60' times on 275/60R15 Radial T/A's at 18 psi (12.84 @ 114, with that trap speed ET should have been low 12 or better...)I should have left the N02 off until 2nd gear but adrenaline got the best of me...

As for the Bullitt-running on 295/35ZR18 Firestone wide ovals. I've never been interested in running tires other than what is normally on the car. When I brag around here about times I want it to be as the car is driven normally. I've always avoided the water all-together, just dusting the tires off instead. I'm amazed at how many people drive straight through and leave a visable trail right to the tree.
I hear you on feathering out of the box-I'm just not sure if my right & left feet will listen...Time will tell. I have a friend coming with me who will film all the runs that night. I will post the interesting ones....John R
:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,853 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
kaylan1521 said:
Hey John, if you're running street tires I would walk it off the line around 1500 rpms and roll into the throttle. If on slicks, I take the revs up to 5500 rpms, dump the clutch and hold on and this is the result

Now that's a launch!!!!!!!

I think MRaburn would come repo the car if he knew I did that with #0005..:lol:

I will be on street tires for sure so I will take your advise and use 1500 rpm as my starting point. Thanks again for the advise....John R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,703 Posts
If you try and launch hard on street tires you will not go anywhere.

<--Never cut better than a 2.3 60' on street tires and blower combo.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top