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Discussion Starter #1
After fooling around with the Kook's black fuzzy gaskets,made by Percy,I decided to go with new OEM gaskets. Any of you doing the same,hold your butt when you go to pay for them.......$144.00 for the set!!! Why I hate Ford so much, they take one gasket and cut it in half,then charge you for 2 per side!!!
The ones that came off the Bullitt were 2 piece on drivers side and 1 piece on passenger side. Well you don't want any chance of a leak on this header install,so you have to pay to play!
 

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ouch !!!!

WOW a part for my 4V was cheaper than a 2V = $38.00 for both sides from ford...........

Yup = Part # YC2Z9448A = $30 each x 4 plus taxman

PS: is the flange on the drivers side header notched for the dipstick tube?

Hang in there Larry......................
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
DaHos said:
WOW a part for my 4V was cheaper than a 2V = $38.00 for both sides from ford...........

Yup = Part # YC2Z9448A = $30 each x 4 plus taxman

PS: is the flange on the drivers side header notched for the dipstick tube?

Hang in there Larry......................
The install is going about as well as any other install I have done,just more stuff to take apart.
There was no cut in the flange for the dip stick. You have to remove it and reinstall after header is mounted.
I'm using as many of the stock studs as possible. Getting those bolts started straight is tough!
The drivers side is done. On the passenger side,I ran into trouble with one header bolt that looked and felt like it was going in correctly,then it got tight. Will have to chase it out with a tap to get the threads straight.
That was a good place to call it a day and take a break!
Removing the K-member is the only way to do it,as you can just lay there and see and get to everything easily.
One thing I did do,before removing the K-member,was to drill 2, 1/4 inch dia. locating holes thru the K-member mounting flange,into the frame rail,on opposite corners. When I reinstall the K-member,I simply line it all up with the two locating pins,plus I made some reference marks.
 

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With the Hookers, I managed to use all the factory studs. I think we ended up cutting two of them down, but there was plenty of threads to do the job. I too used OEM gaskets, as I don't think there is a better choice. That certainly is not something I want to have to go back and do again because of using an inferior gasket. They were a bit cheaper when I did mine though, $51 for all three (at the time only one side was broken into two gaskets.) It has been over three years since I bought them though. I also changed the motor mounts while I was there, with what is supposed to be an improved design.

I was ohhh so tempted to reuse those factory gaskets, even with new ones at what I thought was a high price of 51 bucks.
 

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Good luck with that. I had stock oem on my first Hooker install Then the bolts came loose and leaked. I bought the stage 8 with locking clips. Bought a set of steel gakets with replacable inserts. Change out That was a big job in the home garage. Used the locking clips and have not had a problem over 2 1/2 years. Had to retap i bolt on the drivers side. Undid the motor mount and raised the engine. Also got alot from laying on top of the motor. I now have a tubular K member and easy access.
Jim
 

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Jim, did you use the stock studs or the bolts Hooker packaged in the kit? Mine have been on for three years with OEM gaskets and studs and it's been fine...knock on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Every nut or bolt going in the header flange,is being packed up with lock washers. Then I put the torque wrench on them for a final tightness, of the factory spec. 16 ft.lbs. If you use those factory crimp nuts,I don't see how they would loosen up. You shouldn't reuse the factory gasket,as all the tension,crush, is gone. With the KOOK's,they slip joint the front tube on both sides. This way you install the headers,tighten all the bolts on the 3 tubes,then slide in the front tube,and tighten that up. Reason is, with the front tubes in place,you can't get a socket on the top row of bolts on the rear three tubes.
This evening I go for finish on the passenger side!
 

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I think I paid $52 for all my gaskets from Ford.
 

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ive done over 30 sets. we use the ford gaskets, you can get them in the motorsport head change kit $100.00 and it also comes with a new dipstick tube, use the stock studs, dont use the ford specs on torque thats just crasy loose, just get them as tight as you can, and on the drivers side dont forget to take out the sterring shaft
 
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