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Discussion Starter #1
Both times I have jacked my car to change the oil, the only place I have felt comfortable (and had room for) placing my floor jack was under the K-member.

The first time, I was shocked to see that I had actually warped the central piece of steel just a bit around the four points of contact on my floor jack.

The next time, I tried to put a piece of wood between the floor jack and the K-member, but nothing thick enough to do anything will fit, even with the floor jack at its lowest position.

The "damage" looks purely cosmetic to my uneducated eye, and could be missed if you didn't look closely. However, I've looked around for someplace else under there to try and jack from, and there is no place else that inspires confidence.

Should I be concerned about the K-member, and can someone suggest a better front jacking point? Will our cars go up a standard set of ramps without hitting the flaps in the front? I'll invest in a pair if so.

Thanks!

Joe
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-11-17 08:52, DHG-1934 wrote:
Will our cars go up a standard set of ramps without hitting the flaps in the front? I'll invest in a pair if so.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Rhino Ramps by Blitz work great under the Bullitt!!!

These ramps are made of high impact plastic and weigh only half of what steel ramps do, plus they won't rust. They support any vehicle up to 12,000 pounds! Almost twice that of an ordinary ramp. Lifts vehicles 6" off the ground, making your oil changes easier. 9" wide tire ramp for safe, secure use. Low profile design to accommodate most any vehicle or truck.

The only complaint I have with these ramps is they have a little rubber anti skid pad but the pad is ineffective on smooth concrete. This problem was easily solved by purchasing two non-skid rubber door mats of an adequate size that I put under the Rhino Ramps. With this addition, the ramps don't slide on the driveway at all.

Around $30 at local Auto Part stores around here.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: BC on 2001-11-17 09:44 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, RTFM to me! I guess I shoulda thought of that. The topmost point is what I had previously been using. I think the others in the front will be locations where I can't actually operate the jack due to the shape of the body and angle of the handle mechanism. But I'll give them a shot or get ramps next time.

Thanks!

Joe
 

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I have not done it yet but I was thinking of putting a hockey puck in the center of the floor jack head. Those things are super hard yet should stop any marring of the metal. I have know people to drill through them and use them as body lifts on 4X4's.
 

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Mid Life Crisis

Good idea, but go to Eastwood automotive tools. http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?PGN=1&SKW=DIV_00%20soft%20lifter&!UID=2001111718264388&FNM=20
They have a great lift pad replacement of hard rubber. Not only does it give your floor jack more clearance, but does not scratch or damage your unercarriage. :smile:


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Bullitt4995 on 2001-11-17 18:24 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Bullitt4995 on 2001-11-17 18:27 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's a good one, too! Thanks. I might use the hockey puck for awhile... :smile:
 

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This may be a dumb question, but I've changed my oil once already and didn't jack up the front. Should I have? Why are you jacking up the car to change the oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'd say if you feel like you can do everything you need to without jacking it, then don't worry about it. Given the option, I'd just rather be comfy under the car than squished.

Also, I had a 4.6l Thunderbird which (due to nearby structure) forced me to flip the oil filter upside down every time I changed the oil. (Only path for removal that ever worked for me.) Obviously this dumped dirty oil all over everything. I'm ashamed to say that I never worried much about keeping it clean under there.

Even though the filter is in the same place on the Bullitt, it's a much cleaner removal, since it's easier to get it out without tipping it. The first time around I didn't expect this, and wanted to be able to wipe off the 1/2 quart of oil I expected to spill all over everything. I HAVE spilled a bit both times (not nearly as much as the T'bird), and having it jacked way up has made it easier for me to be certain I've wiped all the dirty oil away from the various pieces-parts. You might be neater than I, or somehow able to wipe it up without the car being jacked.

Joe

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Dark Highland Green #1934
Bone Stock except for a deep Zaino Shine!

1995 4.6L Thunderbird LX in Electric Red -- R.I.P.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG-1934 on 2001-11-18 01:43 ]</font>
 

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This may be a dumb question, but I've changed my oil once already and didn't jack up the front. Should I have? Why are you jacking up the car to change the oil?
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You must be EXTREMELY thin... :grin:
 

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After receiving ramps from a great old neighbor (Fletcher across the street) when I was 16, I finally put them to use after hanging on to them for TWELVE YEARS on my Bullitts first oil change. I was thinking of him while pulling them down from the rafters in my garage. Thanks Fletcher and may God rest your soul.
#797
 

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Funny how old tools bring back fond memories. I have some of my dad's old tools (he's no longer with us)...the same ones he taught me with.
It's part of the joy of working on the car.

And yes, I am skinny :grin:
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Black#5578 born Wed 8-22-01
SteedaTri-Ax,DensChrgr100mm,MGW satin & shift handle,FordRcng3.73's & Alum.Drvshft,rear mudgrds,30mm H&R spacers rear whls,AutoLogic chip


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dennis on 2001-11-18 10:56 ]</font>
 

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I swear by those Rhino Ramps. Can be bought for just under $30 at Walmart. They are light, don't slide like metal ones, and has a nice tapered ramp so not to damage front spoiler/air deflector.

Guys, these are definitely worth every cent! :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll probably get some ramps, too. But I can get a hockey puck for free!
 

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If you don't use ramps then make sure you put jack stands under the suspension points in-case the hydraulic jack decides to "let go". It would be less impressive to get killed "under" your Bullitt rather than "in" your Bullitt.
 

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I'm concerned with the jack scrathing the underside of the car so the one and only time I did jack it up I cut an old inner tube to put on the jack plate. Someone told me about this trick after the purchase of my '92 LX sedan with only 14900 miles it has not been off the ground very often either. The ramps are good but how do you rotate tires?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm a big fan of jackstands. Knocked an '87 Grand Am off the jack while doing front brakes one time as a kid. It was scary. :eek:

Joe
 
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