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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know a good way to get a 4" horizontal scrach out?
I think someone ( an A-- H--- )was displeased with its looks.
Its not real deep, tryed a little
white rubbing compound, got most of it but I am afraid of going too deep.
Help in Houston
 

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Be very careful with rubbing compound! You can easily take the clearcoat off. Take it to a body shop and let them look at it. This isn't something you want to mess up. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont believe I have a clear coat on it
 

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Every car nowdays has a clearcoat finish. It's clear and sits on top of the paint. When you use rubbing compound it takes a little of the clearcoat off. That's what I meant by be careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK thanks, the only reason I this, was when I bought the car I was asked if I wanted a clear coat applied to it.
This was after I picked the car up!
At a cost of course.
 

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Usually they'll offer a "Clear Coat Protector" and that was probably what they were trying to sell you. Clear coat came into being becasue they were no longer able to make a lead based paint. The current paint formula is a very soft formula and needs the clear coat to harden and protect it. At least that's how it was explained to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, the Caddy we own has a special after market paint by PPG that does does not need waxing, yet it does not have a clear coat in it or on it.
 

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Pretty much all new cars have a clear coat over the paint. What it used to be was solid colors were not cleard. The clear in the old days actually caused problems. The binder for the color is in the pigment and clear has no pigment;-)...

But all the Bullitts have Clear on the paint. In many cases you need to use a buffer to rub out the scratch. It will still be visable, but not as much. What some of the members are trying to tell you is that if you rub to hard you can rub through the clear. This can give the paint a hazy or blotchy look. You don't want that. It's best to let someone rub the car that knows how to rub. Also factory paint is not very thick;-(...

Hope this helps.

Bud who did custom paint for many years.
#227
http://www.sonic.net/budacad/bullitt/bullitt.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Bud, I will have it looked at by a paint shop.
 

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Let a body shop do it, unless you want to learn an entirely new craft. Buffing out scratches is not amateur work.

It wouldn't take long to learn the skill, but you'll need a random orbit polisher and a host of info on polish compounds.

By the way, when the body shop is done, you'll need to reapply wax (which you should be thinking about before winter, anyway.)So.... Think about having the body shop do an overall clear coat buffing and clean up your finish completely before your polishing and waxing. This is an excellent time to think about Zaino-ing!

You will be VERY pleased with what a body shop can do to prep your finish before you wax (or polymer) it. It will be MUCH BETTER THAN NEW, scratch or no scratch. Have fun!
 

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Let a body shop do it, unless you want to learn an entirely new craft. Buffing out scratches is not amateur work.

It wouldn't take long to learn the skill, but you'll need a random orbit polisher and a host of info on polish compounds.

By the way, when the body shop is done, you'll need to reapply wax (which you should be thinking about before winter, anyway.)So.... Think about having the body shop do an overall clear coat buffing and clean up your finish completely before your polishing and waxing. This is an excellent time to think about Zaino-ing!

You will be VERY pleased with what a body shop can do to prep your finish before you wax (or polymer) it. It will be MUCH BETTER THAN NEW, scratch or no scratch. Have fun!
 
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