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Discussion Starter #1
Has any one tried this yet?

Can you get them off in one piece?

Can you tell me how to do it successfully?
 

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Ask TXBullitt. I think one of his side scoops fell off and the dealer had to put them back on.
 

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It must be nice to have side scoops.
My Bullitt #3667 does not have any scoops..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I asked about side scoop COVERS. The things behind the doors.

That's the only way I can describe them.

What do you call them in Charleston?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bullitt220 on 2001-09-06 16:00 ]</font>
 

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I would call them trim inserts. They're not really scoops, even fake ones like the GTs.

Yes, the one on my passenger side was loose. It has 2 or 3 trim locator pins along the back edge and 3M double-sided tape holding down the front edge. There's nothing behind but sheet metal, so real scoops require some metal work.

It appeared that the tape stuck before the pins were aligned and properly seated during assembly, so they just left it the way it was. In Houston heat the tape loosened a little and the rest is history It was a 5 minute job at the dealer to fix it.


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TXBullitt on 2001-09-06 21:55 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks TX.

The reason I'm asking about it is because the dealership that I bought the car from made a dent on top of my left rear fender. Needless to say I'm not letting them touch my car again.

I brought the car to a guy that I use who specializes in restoring vintage muscle cars.

He'll have wet sand the entire rear quarter Touch up the dent then blend the top of the fender and spray clear coat over the entire rear quarter without the insert on it.

He wants to remove the trim insert without damaging it and asked me to find out how to get it off.

So, do you think it would come off easier with a heat gun?
 

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Hmmm... Both my side scoops and sail pannels had to be repainted. Chips from the factory. Actually the entire front end, both sail pannels and part of the door jams.

The side scoops come right off. As far as blending, why??? Don't ever let a body shop blend if they don't need to. Even if they are clearing the entire pannel. A few years down the forad you WILL see the blend. I have painted custom cars for years and even worked on a Grand National Championship 32 Ford. What I would suggest, is remove the sail pannel and the side scoop. Back tape the dore jam and trunk jam. Then sand and paint the entire pannel. But if your dent in the quarter pannel is not very big check to see if it can be removed with a rubber dolly or some of the other methods used these days. As long as the metal is not stretched, they may be able to do this. Worth getting a quote on anyway;-)...

Take care.

Bud

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http://www.sonic.net/budacad/bullitt/bullitt.htm
 

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we could call them "closed-off" fake side scoops!

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mystang99 - (Marty)
2001 Bullitt DHG #648
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mystang99 on 2001-09-07 17:41 ]</font>
 

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First, I agree with seeing if the dent can be removed without painting. Dent removal places such as Dent Wizard can do pretty good work as long as the dent is not to big. As far as the painting goes, I disagree with Bud's opinion on not blending. If you take it to a shop that knows what they are doing, then you can get away with blending the area and clearing the whole panel. You do not want to get color on the entire panel, because you WILL see a color difference in the adjacent panels. I speak from experience. It's my job. Good luck, and again, if you can get away without painting at all, then go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've tried the Dent Wizard and he won't touch it because the dent is right on the edge where the fender rolls over into the trunk lid. (See my posting from 8/31 "Bruised Bullitt" in Bullitthead chat)

It is a raised bump on the lip. That sort of edge is impossible to massage out.

I'm faced with leaving it alone or having it tapped out, filled, sanded, blended and clear coated.

I think I agree with 4542. It is a small area and I do trust this guy but I've gotta try to get the dealership to pay for it.

I'm sure they won't and will try to make me use their shop who caused the problem in the first place.

I'm also interested in what BudACAD has to say and would like to know if he thinks I should trust these guys to do it as they are telling me the same thing.

Bud if you're out there, let me know your opinion.
 

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I don't think I'd recommend using a heat gun on a piece of plastic trim. It's pretty thick, so getting the 3M tape hot enough to let go would be iffy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
TX,

What would you recomend? They are on awfuly tight and my body guy does'nt want to crack them.

Anyone else have any suggestions on removing these things?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
TX,

What would you recomend? They are on awfuly tight and my body guy does'nt want to crack them.

Anyone else have any suggestions on removing these things?
 

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I don't know what to recommend. When mine was loose, I could have pulled it off by hand. That makes me think there's some little trick that when done makes it look absolutely simple.
 

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Hmmm... Many years of doing this my self;-)... Lots of Show cars and one Grand National winner... I started doing body work back in 1972.

I stand my ground. Blends are bad news. Blending around the dent repair and then clearing the entire quarter is an old panters trick that is used when the color does not match. Mostly top surfaces. This is the quarter on a brand new car. If you can't find a body shop that can match this, there is a serious problem with letting them paint any car. As far as blending being good, I will never believe that. I have seen to many blends go bad as well as look really seedy. They look great at first, but after about 6 months you start to see the blend. It's also not any extra work since you have to clear the entire quarter anyway.

Part of the reason my car went back was because of a bad blend before it got to the dealership.

Make them fix it right ONCE!

Take care.

Bud

http://www.sonic.net/budacad/bullitt/bullitt.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for your opinion Bud.

Was your dealer able to match the color okay?

Did you trust them to do it right?

The place I go to seems happy to make you tell them what to do, then when they screw it up they're happy to tell you that you told them to do it.

I know it's a brand new car and something tells me it should be simple to do but it's an issue of trust.

They have caused more problems than they've fixed.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bullitt220 on 2001-09-08 05:13 ]</font>
 

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Hee hee hee... They had the car 4 times with sets of repairs. The color was off and it was a bad blend that made me see it. I made them do a butt match and adjust the color. It now looks very good. At least what they painted. Both side scoops, the sail panels, and the front end. They did not repaint the door jams and hood jams so I can still see the wrong color there. Ford and I are still working that part out. I will not take the car back to the body shop except for the final rub of the paint. I'll do it my self and make Ford compensate me some how.

Take care.

Bud
 

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Bud.... I mean no disrespect, we are all fellow Bullitt owners here, and I don't doubt your experience. But if he has that quarter panel, fully panel painted - there will be a noticable color difference between the door, the deck lid, the sail panel, and the rear cover. Doesn't matter how close they can get the color. You can even ask the shop to use a factory pack and you will still see a slight discoloration. Not to mention the fact that you don't want anymore product on the car than you really have to. Oh, and one more thing, when taking the car back to the dealership for body or paint work, most don't have an in house bodyshop. If they don't.....find out what shop they take it too. Warranty work doesn't pay very well and most shops will do the job as quickly and as cheap as they can. Good luck with whatever you decide to do 220.
 

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Hmmm... You and I will just have to agree to disagree I guess;-) But I would add comments to a couple of things here.

1. As long as I have been doing this, NEW cars have not been a problem matching paint. Mixing or with factory packs when available. It was always paint that had been on for a while and in most cases the vehical sat outside most of the time. Silver is one of the toughtest colors for this.

2. Since his car was damaged by the service department, it is not warrenty work, but something to be fixed by the dealer. If they choose to argue with Carl on this, he can just turn then in to his insurance, have the shop of his choice fix the car and let the insurance company and dealership fight it out. Not a fun way to go, but they dented the car and are responsible for putting it back into the orginal shape.

Anyway, It really is up to Carl since it is his car.

Take care.

Bud

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http://www.sonic.net/budacad/bullitt.htm.
 

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Hey...if everyone shared the same opinion...then this would be a pretty boring place, wouldn't it? :smile: In the end, all that matters is that Carl gets his Bullitt fixed and fixed right. If you decide to turn it into the insurance, any major insurance company guarantees their customers satisfaction. Which means you don't take the car home until YOU are satisfied - no matter which way they choose to paint your car. Good luck Carl. And Bud, i'm sure i'll be talking to you later, plenty more things to disagree on. :smile:
 
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