[Mus408]

The exhaust is much quieter than before. Will pull out the resonators,I had in the tailpipes.
Also the Check Engine light is staying on. Is this due to the O2 sensors being further down the system,in the collectors? How do you correct? Or could it be due to the battery being disconnected for a couple of days?

 

[VORTECD]

Did you have MIL's?

 

[theHULK]

Yes for some reason the computer does not like when the O2 are relocated. Taking the negetive battery cable off for about ten minutes and it should clear. More than likely it will come back on, so I would suggest a tune or mil eliminators. Hope that helps.

 

[Mus408]

Had MIL's for several years,with my O/R H-pipe. This is something new with the header install. Runs great. Can't believe how mellow the exhaust sound got with the headers and X-pipe. Definitely feels torquier and revs quicker!!
I will install my LM-1 unit this weekend and see how the A/F ratio looks. Was 12.6 at WOT without the headers. I may be able to check for codes and delete the Check Engine light with my X-cal unit.

 

[01GTB]

What codes are you pulling, Larry? If it is a rear O2 code, you can basically turn them off with your Xcal. If it's the fronts, well, that is a bit more problem.

When I put my Hookers on it started throwing upstream O2 codes. And I started going through sensors right and left. I would get about 1500 miles before I fouled them. I originally had my car tuned for this specific problem. The problem lies from the O2 being too far down the pipe and not being sufficiently heated before it goes into closed loop. They need to get up to a certain temperature in a certain length of time. I was told any SCT tuner could fix the problem. I am not sure what else the guy that tuned mine did, other than I know for sure that my idle is like 940rpm. I remember hearing others talk about delaying the response time, or something like that. I do not think this is something that you can do yourself with out the PRP software though :doubt:

If it turns out to be a upstream code, for now try raising the idle.

 

[Mus408]

What codes are you pulling, Larry? If it is a rear O2 code, you can basically turn them off with your Xcal. If it's the fronts, well, that is a bit more problem.

When I put my Hookers on it started throwing upstream O2 codes. And I started going through sensors right and left. I would get about 1500 miles before I fouled them. I originally had my car tuned for this specific problem. The problem lies from the O2 being too far down the pipe and not being sufficiently heated before it goes into closed loop. They need to get up to a certain temperature in a certain length of time. I was told any SCT tuner could fix the problem. I am not sure what else the guy that tuned mine did, other than I know for sure that my idle is like 940rpm. I remember hearing others talk about delaying the response time, or something like that. I do not think this is something that you can do yourself with out the PRP software though :doubt:

If it turns out to be a upstream code, for now try raising the idle.

Thanks for the info. The light came on when I cranked up the first time and everytime since then. I will check with the SCT people.

 

[01GTB]

Plug in your Xcal and scan if for codes and see what you get. It may be nothing to do with it. Post the code(s) you come up with and I'll see if it seems familiar. Being it came on right away, I think it may be something completely unrelated. It took a while for mine to start wreaking havoc on the sensors.

 

[Mus408]

I'll hook it up this weekend. I hope the O2 sensor extentions were wired correctly! However,the car runs strong.

 

[01GTB]

Mine ran great with failing o2's. It clicked off it's best ever 1/4 mile run with bad o2 sensors It just didn't want to idle Seriously, when you get time, post up your dt codes. I bet this is nothing. I think it took a month before mine ever threw a code, or had any hint of something not being quite right. I don't think you've got a problem like that, yet anyway. Hooker headers were notorious for it, but I don't recall anyone with BBK's ever talking about it. Kooks...who knows.

 

[Mus408]

Found the problem. A code P340 came up....cam sensor failure. I checked under the hood and found I had left it disconnected!! I wonder how it ran? It is located behind the power steering fluid container on the cam cover.
Cleared the code and all is fine.

 

[Mus408]

Just took the Bullitt out again. The exhaust note is different,due to the X-pipe,but the headers and the chambered pipe mufflers give it a mellow tone which turns into a sharp metallic sound when you put the foot to it. I love the better throttle response and mid range torque!! Yes, the old true Bullitt sound is missing.
Tomorrow, I will hook up the LM-1 and see what the tune looks like.

 

[Mus408]

What codes are you pulling, Larry? If it is a rear O2 code, you can basically turn them off with your Xcal. If it's the fronts, well, that is a bit more problem.

When I put my Hookers on it started throwing upstream O2 codes. And I started going through sensors right and left. I would get about 1500 miles before I fouled them. I originally had my car tuned for this specific problem. The problem lies from the O2 being too far down the pipe and not being sufficiently heated before it goes into closed loop. They need to get up to a certain temperature in a certain length of time. I was told any SCT tuner could fix the problem. I am not sure what else the guy that tuned mine did, other than I know for sure that my idle is like 940rpm. I remember hearing others talk about delaying the response time, or something like that. I do not think this is something that you can do yourself with out the PRP software though :doubt:

If it turns out to be a upstream code, for now try raising the idle.

Maybe I will raise the idle up to 940. Would this help out with the O2 sensors getting more heat at start up?

 

[01GTB]

I won't hurt. I have no idea what else my tuner did, but I do know that was at least one thing he did to fix it. He was well aware that was my primary reason for getting it tuned in the first place. The sensor problem ended immediately and has been great since.