Headers: long tubes, shorty's, none?

Long tubes are WELL worth it. PITA to install yerself unless you have access to a lift. The Ford dealer I deal with even warrantied an O2 sensor after i had the long tubes in. No problem so far with bolts coming out yet, there are studs on my heads. Mac LT's=best bang for the buck. BBK LT's=pretttier and pricier (cant see em much under the hood anyway) Sean Hyland ceramic LT's= great if you have a big pile of money that is just sitting there under the money tree in your backyard. I don't have any dyno numbers for you cuz im waiting until im done with my motor mods. I got the Mac's with the matching O/R H-pipe with Dynomax Race Magnums. A very LOUD combo, though quiet at idle. Just my 2 centz.......

Gary

oh yeah, i forgot. if you get the LT's make sure you get O2 sensor extenders cuz the stock wires won't reach.

Gary

It's gotta be impossible to replace the headers on this car!

What kind of labor is required to do a header swap? It seems to be very tight under the hood to the left and right sides of the heads. Also, are there any clearance issues with long tubes: engine compartment-shock towers, motor mounts, etc., and also ground clearance?

I have been considering longtubes also. I spoke with roushraven99 (Arthur) about his install. He said that the installer had to jack up the engine in the engine bay to get at the manifold bolts. The more I research this mod the more complicated it seems. If you have the mechanical ability, tools and time than do it yourself. The typical install cost is $600. Check out Arthur's site for more info.

http://www.roushraven99.freeservers.com/



_________________
Dark Highland Green #1790
Mods:Baer Racing EradiSpeed Rotors, Eibach springs, Tri-Ax, Densecharger 100mm, 87mm Pro-M MAF, Steeda Undrdrv/P's & T/A, FRPP Alum D/S

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Brad1790 on 2001-11-05 21:11 ]</font>

Is the labor for shorty headers along the same lines as long tubes? Practically pulling the motor? It just doesn't seem worth-while doing this.

_________________
Two Stangs:
1965 Mustang Fastback
-302-edelbrock performer rpm heads, intake, cam
-top loader 4 speed, kb pistons, etc.
2001 Mustang Bullitt GT:
-K&N
-3 Chamber Flowmaster Delta Flow 50 Series

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG#5228 on 2001-11-15 15:27 ]</font>

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-11-06 13:07, DHG#5228 wrote:
Is the labor for shorty headers along the sames lines as long tubes? Practically pulling the motor? It just doesn't seem worth-while doing this.

</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>Labor for my long tubes was 250.00. The shop was going to charge 200.00 until I told him i had long tubes. Probably the best 250.00 i spent on the car. I saw the end result and it definitely a job im glad i didn't attempt in my driveway. BTW, that was 250.00 for installing the LT's, H-pipe, and mufflers. From what i've read i got a great deal on install. But then again im sure someone else will overcharge me for something else down the road.......

Gary

$200-$250 is not nearly what the average going rate is. That mechanic is giving away his time.

I helped my bud out with a BBK long tube install on his 97 Cobra; it was a fuggin nightmare. 2-3 days to get it done. (of course, the car was on jack stands) There is VERY little room to manuever your hands or tools.

Dropped the car off at 8:00 am, it was done at 4:00 pm. Probably took a couple hours to cool. So 6 hours???? I think $40.00+/hour is fair. Let's see............2-3 days times 0.00/hour.............hmmmmmmm. Who's giving away their time?????

Hehehe...Just kidding.....

Gary

Would I be looking at the same type of labor with the installation of shorty headers? Would the install price be less? Also, what type of difference is there in gain between shorty's vs. longtubes vs. stock exhaust manifolds?

Hi Folks,

I just finished installing JBA shorty headers on #5434 and first hand I can tell you......it was a BITCH! It took about 16 hours total but would've been a lot less if I didn't use Stage8 locking bolts. The stock studs would've been much easier but I *wanted* locking bolts and when I get an idea in my head.......

Anyway, the car is still jacked up awaiting my magnaflow X-pipe w/cats and cat-back. I also installed the FRRP aluminum driveshaft and Steeda Triax at the same time. While the car is up and the engine compartment is in partial disassembly, I think I'm going to do the pullies and some type of intake mod. What do you guys think about intake? Densecharger? K&N in stock airbox?

I plan on dynoing the car once this round of mods is done and I'll post the numbers.

Mark

If you are willing to spend the money for the K&N I highly suggest that you buy the Densecharger instead. You'll get much more value for money and dyno proven performance gains.

Thanks!

Mark

Do long tubes create any ground clearance issues? Do they hang lower than the subframe connectors? I personally wouldn't care to worry about any ground clearance.