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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was out messing with the car, tapping on various things to see if i could get anything to make noise for me, and guess what...

the pulley just above the tensioner pulley wiggles back and fourth like crazy and makes a noise similar to what i've been hearing.

if you tap it with your hand quick enough it sounds close to the rapping sound. at minimum it sounds like it could be the noise.

everyone go out and try this and see if you agree...

Kyle
 

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Interesting theory, and I checked it out on my car, but here's why I disagree...
My idler pully also has a little play, but the sound it makes when rattled is more plasticy than metallic. I get the "cold noise" in the extreme, in all gears in the rpm range of 2,900 - 4,000, and if it were the idler pully play making all that racket at those speeds I'm sure I'd feel a vibration as well as just hearing deisel truck noises.
Keep investigating though. The support is much appreciated (especially since Ford shows NO interest in finding a solution).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
actually you're correct. i just got done cruising around the block w/o the belt and the noise was a little worse.

i actually heard it in 1st gear, and it really sounded like piston slap.

by the way, a word of caution to those who'd try to take the belt off: you lose your brakes and steering. not fun.

and there is no routing picture for the belt so you either have to make one yourself or just make a mental note.
 

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There is a diagram available, made up by a Bullitthead here. Search for it or look on Karl's "member photo album" on the main page...the diagram is in the first album.
I copied it and taped a reduced copy of it inside my hood for easy reference.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-12-01 11:46, Dennis wrote:
There is a diagram available, made up by a Bullitthead here. Search for it or look on Karl's "member photo album" on the main page...the diagram is in the first album.
I copied it and taped a reduced copy of it inside my hood for easy reference.

</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is the routing diagram, (Courtesy of Mid-Life Crisis #388) :smile:

www.bullittarchive.com

_________________


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Mid Life Crisis #388 on 2004-11-15 10:29 ]</font>
 

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I have the noise too, but I really have to romp on a cold engine to get it to do it. Maybe that's another benefit of using a synthetic oil. I've been using Mobil 1 5W30 since 886 miles. I now have approx. 5250.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i've heard that switching to synthetic mitigates the noise but doesn't all togehter eliminate it. i was actually thining that maybe the dealers are putting the wrong weight oil in the car... its a shot in the dark.
 

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this a copy of my post on rear end problems

Fixer,

i'm not sure of what your experiencing but from my experience from mechanical/ lubrication, i'd like to suggest a couple of things about your tapping sound when cold.

1st, filter.. most people don't know this, but if say you start your engine and the engine taps but shortly goes away, this is due to the lack of oil on your top end during start up and once the oil pump produces suffient oil pressure it quites down. the reason for this, get this, most mechanics beleive lifters collapsing or oil pump is weak, but in reality, there is an antidrain back valve in your oil filter. buy changing to a different brand of filter you sometimes will resolve this. studies have shown that frams are one of the worst for this problem.

now if you engine is slightly tapping during cold start up and maintains that till it warms up, my thoughts is a different oil might be in order. here is how that works, some oils are low quality base stocks and can shear real easy. this is when an oil's base stock is squeezed out between to high pressure or shear zone thus leaving virtually no lubrication to protect your parts. one reason is once warmed up the viscosity improvers "thicken" the oil to a 20 or 30wt (which ever you have) thus damping the noise a little better. in a good quality lubricant, you also have an additive designed for this called a barrier lubricant that will keep momentary shearing down to a minimal. in some cases synth oils tend to be a little more prone to allow this to happen since synths flow easier than mineral oils. what you have to do is determin what type of oil your using and make adjustments, so if your useing a synth try a good grade mineral, and if mineral, consider higher grade or synth.

these are just some ideas on the tapping problem i am hearing you guys have. consider this also. for those of you that jackrabbit starts and stops, your shearing your oil and that causes excessive wear. case in point,
little lady from texas never hammers it, car runs forever, take same car put young guy who jackrabbits from light to light, car won't last. this is due to the shearing of the oil. i cover that on my site. look under states of lubrication to learn more on that.


bob
Member STLE
Lubricant Specialist
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
 
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