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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
K member brace went on today. As usual with any purcharsed mod it DID NOT FIT.

Should have been a 15 minute job that I managed to spread over a couple of hours.

Now the good news.............
After farting about for ages to get it to fit, I was thinking that I had wasted my time !
I have recently fitted the rear shock brace in the trunk. I thought on first drive that this was a waste
of time. I drove the car hard and mad and thought it made no difference AT ALL.
However, next time I was cruising along with cruise set I found the front of the car NOW felt all worn and baggy!
I concluded that maybe the rear brace had done something for the rear as the front now felt disconnected.....

Wind on to today, I felt this brace was a wast of 80 bucks BUT NOT SO.
Because now I have lost that loose disconnected feel that I found in the front.
Overall I think this has done a world of good to the ride, handling and cornering.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Lower

PS This brace does sit a bit lower that the stock one and if your car is lowered then this will poss
be the lowest point on your car.
 

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You think perhaps yours was defective / bent..??

Full length subframes would help way more from what I've read ... Can't see your subframes in the pic.
 

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Bob,

My MM brace bolted right in. MM stuff I've used has been very good quality.
 

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K-member brace?

FordFan said:
Bob,

My MM brace bolted right in. MM stuff I've used has been very good quality.
Can anybody please lend some more advice on the "3 braces" ... for example, shock tower (which is pending arrival soon), rear shock brace (which I have been contemplating but haven't read much about on here), and now this K-member brace ... ???

I guess basically what I am asking is does the rear shock brace and the K-member brace justify their expense?

Who makes the MM brace and who makes the best rear brace?

I appreciate the assistance.:smile:

(Glenn at TexWebDesign.com)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
magnum347 said:
You think perhaps yours was defective / bent..??

Full length subframes would help way more from what I've read ... Can't see your subframes in the pic.
I dont have any subframe connectors, they were missing from my Bullitt. I have heard of about 6 that had these missing these from the factory.

I want welded in jacking rails next and I an thinking of cusom made full length welded in subframe connectors,
fabricated here in the UK. Partly this is for superior strength but also because I am fed up with poor fitting aftermarket stuff...............
 

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FordFan said:
Bob,

My MM brace bolted right in. MM stuff I've used has been very good quality.
Is this the one that you got?

Part #: MMKB2-5
 

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Discussion Starter #9
FordFan said:
Bob,

My MM brace bolted right in. MM stuff I've used has been very good quality.
Thanks, If I don't go for custom made then I will buy KB jacking rails
and go for MM full length weld in subs

My friend has just given me a litre of L2 True Blue paint as well to match it all in after welding........

Bob
 

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5111 said:
Is this the one that you got?

Part #: MMKB2-5
I come up with part# MMKB4-4 for 1996-2004 $99

 

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TXBLUOVAL said:
Can anybody please lend some more advice on the "3 braces" ... for example, shock tower (which is pending arrival soon), rear shock brace (which I have been contemplating but haven't read much about on here), and now this K-member brace ... ???

I guess basically what I am asking is does the rear shock brace and the K-member brace justify their expense?

Who makes the MM brace and who makes the best rear brace?

I appreciate the assistance.:smile:

(Glenn at TexWebDesign.com)
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ look under "chassis stiffening"

Opinions very, I Open Track my Bullitt a few times a year with full length sub frame connectors and a K-member brace.. My Bullitt handles like a dream and hasn't fallen a part yet..
<----- Look under "FordFan's garage" for a complete list of my suspension mods

I elect not to use a Strut Tower Brace, had one and sold it. I think the K-member brace is a better choice. I believe there is nothing to gain from the rear shock brace in most applications. But what do I know??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FordFan said:
I come up with part# MMKB4-4 for 1996-2004 $99

My K member looks the same but is obviously a poorer copy of the Maximum Motorsports item.
I might switch mine for the MM item.

PS. Now ordered MM full length subs
and KB jacking rails.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
FordFan said:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ look under "chassis stiffening"

Opinions very, I Open Track my Bullitt a few times a year with full length sub frame connectors and a K-member brace.. My Bullitt handles like a dream and hasn't fallen a part yet..
<----- Look under "FordFan's garage" for a complete list of my suspension mods

I elect not to use a Strut Tower Brace, had one and sold it. I think the K-member brace is a better choice. I believe there is nothing to gain from the rear shock brace in most applications. But what do I know??
Kerry, thanks again for your views on this which I appreciate a lot with your experience.
I fitted the rear brace because it was sitting here doing nothing but you are probably right that it is not worth much in the handling department. I can't odds the results that at slow speed my front felt loose and baggy after this instalation, as I said at the start of this thread.

I am going to fit the MM full length subs and KB jacking rails and apart from an "underside paint makeover"
That is it for mods on my car.
 

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English Bob said:
I am going to fit the MM full length subs and KB jacking rails and apart from an "underside paint makeover"
That is it for mods on my car.
I am certainly not an expert, but I thought with the new MM full lenght subs you do not need jacking rails (you can just use the subframe connetors)? Are you thinking the jacking rails would just be easier to reach?
 

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English Bob said:
Kerry, thanks again for your views on this which I appreciate a lot with your experience.
I fitted the rear brace because it was sitting here doing nothing but you are probably right that it is not worth much in the handling department. I can't odds the results that at slow speed my front felt loose and baggy after this instalation, as I said at the start of this thread.

I am going to fit the MM full length subs and KB jacking rails and apart from an "underside paint makeover"
That is it for mods on my car.

I am keeping the Bullitt, selling my Grand Cherokee and ordering a new car for me.
I am also replacing the wifes car for a more hot daily ride that we can share.
The weld on subframe connectors will be the biggest improvement you can do. They really tighten the car up from front to back.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Matt Stachler said:
I am certainly not an expert, but I thought with the new MM full lenght subs you do not need jacking rails (you can just use the subframe connetors)? Are you thinking the jacking rails would just be easier to reach?
I am aware of this I just want BOTH. I am always jacking my car up
 

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Thanx for this topic Bob! I always wondered if those 2 braces were worth the money. Want to sell me your rear bar? I'm not going full lenght subs till I get back to Houston. Don't really trust any of these Italian shops around here to do it right. who makes your Rear bar BTW?
 

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I'm thinking about ordering one now. Way to go Bob, getting me in trouble again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
ItalianDHG#0754 said:
Thanx for this topic Bob! I always wondered if those 2 braces were worth the money. Want to sell me your rear bar? I'm not going full lenght subs till I get back to Houston. Don't really trust any of these Italian shops around here to do it right. who makes your Rear bar BTW?
My trunk brace was from V8 Power but did not fit. I will find you a link to my thread when i fitted it.
Take Kerrys' advice and use MM.
Even if it costs a bit more the quality and fit will make it worth it I am sure........
 

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Bob get the stoutest weld-in sub frame connectors you can and you'll feel a huge difference in the way your car rides and handles. You'll put more power to the ground, corner flatter, and respond quicker. You may find this to be the best 'seat of the pants' mod you've made to date. It will greatly help to stiffen the chassis and will actually reduce squeaking and chassis noises.
 
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