K-N Air Filter and Synthetic oil question
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yes to both.....
I am waiting till 10k till I go to synthetic
hopefully by then 5w-20 will be available...
valvoline has told me syntec will be available by 2002 in that weight.till then conventional 5w-20 will do. I have noticed a slight difference in performance and mileage with the K& N... very slight but still worth it in my opinion
I am waiting till 10k till I go to synthetic
hopefully by then 5w-20 will be available...
valvoline has told me syntec will be available by 2002 in that weight.till then conventional 5w-20 will do. I have noticed a slight difference in performance and mileage with the K& N... very slight but still worth it in my opinion
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5,360 Posts
"noticable" is a relative term! i believe your engine performs 1 to 3 HP better with a K & N, BUT if nothing else, you're doing your engine a favor by allowing it to breath better and you're using a better filter that traps particulate matter better!!
This is for all the folks in the southeast and the warmer areas, 5w20 is a cold weather oil I'm told and is almost impossible to fine in the warmer areas. I changed my oil yesterday for the second time(5k miles) and went with the 10w30 synthetic by Castoil. It has been good to me in the past so I'll stay with it until I see where it has let me down.
Ohhh.....I don't want to get into the K/N air filter being a superior trapper of dust/dirt. I tell ya...I have tested them in the past and they are not that at all.
If more air is getting in, then more dirt is getting in as well. Back when they started, they initially designed those filters for race only engines that were torn down on a weekly or daily basis and rebuilt from there. The air flow was great but the filtering wasn't. The current consumer model of course is much better but still, from my simple tests that I conducted a few years back, they didn't pass.
Don't want to hash anything out over it....just make the choice for yourself. I'll keep the stock paper-style for now.
Paul G.
If more air is getting in, then more dirt is getting in as well. Back when they started, they initially designed those filters for race only engines that were torn down on a weekly or daily basis and rebuilt from there. The air flow was great but the filtering wasn't. The current consumer model of course is much better but still, from my simple tests that I conducted a few years back, they didn't pass.
Don't want to hash anything out over it....just make the choice for yourself. I'll keep the stock paper-style for now.
Paul G.
The Motorcraft 5w20 oil,that Ford uses,is a synthetic blend,and seems to be a good high quality oil,that meets all their extreme tests. These engines are built fairly tight,so the 5w20 should be fine. Maybe an oil cooler wouldn't be a bad idea. Don't the '01 Cobras come with one?
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I have always used Mobil 1, great oil, and you can get it cheap in 5qt jugs at Wal-Mart! fully synthetic is the way to go because it does not have the organic matrial in it that conventional or blended oil has, that organic material is the reason you have to change your oil, it is carbon, with Mobil 1, I change every 10,000-12,000 and don't even have to at that point, just comforting I guess. Unless you are in cold climate all the time, I would use 10w-50. because it is HOT in FL I use 20w-50 in the 98 Vette (even though they say to use 5w-20) and the Impala in the summer, and 10w-50 in winter. I have had a K & N in the Impala for 5 years, this is what I see as the benifit of the K&N, longevity, just clean it, soak it, and you are off, as for air flow, I may have seen a 1 to 2 mpg jump from the stock.
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783 Posts
I'm a Castrol Syntec user too. I put in 6 quarts, along wiht a Fram oil filter, at 1000 miles. Next change will be at 5K and then every 5K after that. 5, 10, 15...now that's easy to remember! Using 5W30 for now until they come out with a 5W20.
I've still got my paper filter in and will probably leave it until it actually needs changed. How important is filtering the air anyway?? Of course big gooy bugs and sand would be bad but anything smaller is just sucked in, blown up, and blasted out right? I suppose over time the valves and valve seats might suffer but anything a K & N might let in would take forever to do any serious damage.
Oh, but what about vacume? Hows that created in an engine? Where's that air coming from? Geez, there is so much I don't have a clue about!!
OK, starting to ramble and deffenetly not helping DHG 2766. Sorry. Bye.
I've still got my paper filter in and will probably leave it until it actually needs changed. How important is filtering the air anyway?? Of course big gooy bugs and sand would be bad but anything smaller is just sucked in, blown up, and blasted out right? I suppose over time the valves and valve seats might suffer but anything a K & N might let in would take forever to do any serious damage.
Oh, but what about vacume? Hows that created in an engine? Where's that air coming from? Geez, there is so much I don't have a clue about!!
OK, starting to ramble and deffenetly not helping DHG 2766. Sorry. Bye.
Well for the most part....ever take a look at a piston sleeve that has been pitted by particles getting into the oil from a poor air filter? It can happen. It isn't a pretty sight. An oil filter can trap it but chances are they have already circulated through the motor before they hit the filter. Those same particles can get into the rod bearings, cam lobes, etc and it can do some pretty nasty things.
Paul G.
_________________
DHG Bullitt # 2181
Steeda Tri-AX, Aluminum D-shaft
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-08-18 00:51 ]</font>
Paul G.
_________________
DHG Bullitt # 2181
Steeda Tri-AX, Aluminum D-shaft
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-08-18 00:51 ]</font>
I'm afraid people are going to start thinking I'm an Amsoil rep, but I saw pics online recently (will try to find them) of airflow graphs of paper/k&n/and amsoil filters combined with photos of the material each of these let pass in X hours of running. I discovered these while looking up info on their 5W20, which I now use.
Amsoil flow was as good or better than K&N at all points, it took more time to clog the filter, and to test the particles let by by the filter they just had some kind of cloth on the other side of it. Only the amsoil cloth was clean, and the k&n was pretty dirty (as was standard paper). I'm still running the stock filter, but I plan to switch to an amsoil soon unless someone can refute this. Later this weekend I'll try and dig up the test pics again.
Joe
Amsoil flow was as good or better than K&N at all points, it took more time to clog the filter, and to test the particles let by by the filter they just had some kind of cloth on the other side of it. Only the amsoil cloth was clean, and the k&n was pretty dirty (as was standard paper). I'm still running the stock filter, but I plan to switch to an amsoil soon unless someone can refute this. Later this weekend I'll try and dig up the test pics again.
Joe
I can't refute the proof of successfully running an Amsoil filter. I had one in my 95 LT-1 Z28 and it was superb. There was no clogging or crap that got by it. I did the same test with it as I did with the K/N test below:
My simple test was this. I had the oil analyzed 3 times by a company in my city called Wear Check. The first initial test was to drain a small amount of oil into one of their sterile containers to determine that everything was alright and it was normal. There was a lot of dust in the area from the construction all the way until the end of October. My area was basically a new housing developement at that time. I ran the stock paper filter for 2 months starting in the spring. I checked the area behind the filter (air tube) which is in front of the Maf on the Z28. I drained the oil at this time to start fresh. I also checked the area inside the plastic tube and it was clean, just as it was before I started the test. After 2 months I then installed a K/N filter. After a couple more months (into July) I drained an oil sample for them and they tested it as well. This time, the sample had more silicon particulate in it than before....actually about 20% more. They suggested that something was wrong. I hadn't told them that I had changed the air filter. So, I proceeded to check the area in front of the MAF again and it was coated with a fine layer of this white dust-like material which is when I realized something was wrong. I figured, perhaps it was a defective filter? I borrowed a friends K/N from a car club that we were both part of, cleaned things up and ran it for another 2 weeks. Same problem! I checked all connections and things were tight. I then proceed to drain the oil and put the stock paper filter back in. After a couple of months (end of Sept.) I drained an oil sample and their reading came back as NORMAL again. I also checked the tube area and it was clean as well.
This was my simple test. Not scientific by any means, but still, it proved to me without a doubt that a K/N will flow more air and more dirt as well....to me at least! The only saving grace was that I tried a similar test again with my 99 Lightning. I purchased a PSP ramair kit for it that came with a Powerstack K/N style filter. It also came with a really neat product called an "Outerwears" pre-filter. This was a small nylon jacket that surrounded the filter. The tube test came up negative when the jacket was around the filter and positive when the jacket was off. So, in essence, I would not have a problem running a K/N if I had that pre-filter on it.
Sorry for the long post...but I don't have a lot of faith in the filtering ability of a K/N over a stock paper unit.
Paul G.
My simple test was this. I had the oil analyzed 3 times by a company in my city called Wear Check. The first initial test was to drain a small amount of oil into one of their sterile containers to determine that everything was alright and it was normal. There was a lot of dust in the area from the construction all the way until the end of October. My area was basically a new housing developement at that time. I ran the stock paper filter for 2 months starting in the spring. I checked the area behind the filter (air tube) which is in front of the Maf on the Z28. I drained the oil at this time to start fresh. I also checked the area inside the plastic tube and it was clean, just as it was before I started the test. After 2 months I then installed a K/N filter. After a couple more months (into July) I drained an oil sample for them and they tested it as well. This time, the sample had more silicon particulate in it than before....actually about 20% more. They suggested that something was wrong. I hadn't told them that I had changed the air filter. So, I proceeded to check the area in front of the MAF again and it was coated with a fine layer of this white dust-like material which is when I realized something was wrong. I figured, perhaps it was a defective filter? I borrowed a friends K/N from a car club that we were both part of, cleaned things up and ran it for another 2 weeks. Same problem! I checked all connections and things were tight. I then proceed to drain the oil and put the stock paper filter back in. After a couple of months (end of Sept.) I drained an oil sample and their reading came back as NORMAL again. I also checked the tube area and it was clean as well.
This was my simple test. Not scientific by any means, but still, it proved to me without a doubt that a K/N will flow more air and more dirt as well....to me at least! The only saving grace was that I tried a similar test again with my 99 Lightning. I purchased a PSP ramair kit for it that came with a Powerstack K/N style filter. It also came with a really neat product called an "Outerwears" pre-filter. This was a small nylon jacket that surrounded the filter. The tube test came up negative when the jacket was around the filter and positive when the jacket was off. So, in essence, I would not have a problem running a K/N if I had that pre-filter on it.
Sorry for the long post...but I don't have a lot of faith in the filtering ability of a K/N over a stock paper unit.
Paul G.
Paul
I was browsing the SLP ENGINEERING site forums, and the LT1 and LS1 owners had similar problems. Most users on that site stated that the k&n filter didn't quite fit properly and had to use a gasket of sorts to accommodate for their air lids. So that being said, i wonder if our set up would be a little more forgiving!!
However, until i hear different i'll just keep using the standard paper filter.
thanks again,
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG 2766 on 2001-08-19 00:19 ]</font>
I was browsing the SLP ENGINEERING site forums, and the LT1 and LS1 owners had similar problems. Most users on that site stated that the k&n filter didn't quite fit properly and had to use a gasket of sorts to accommodate for their air lids. So that being said, i wonder if our set up would be a little more forgiving!!
However, until i hear different i'll just keep using the standard paper filter.
thanks again,
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG 2766 on 2001-08-19 00:19 ]</font>
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100 Posts
This 5-20 oil thing is starting to drive me crazy! I know Ford went so far as to imprint this on the top of our oil caps, but I honestly don't believe that Ford has the long term best interests of our engines at heart. Thinner oil, less resistance, perhaps "slightly" better fuel mileage, but only a smidgen at best. All the car makers are trying everything they can to grab a mpg here and there and the engineers came up with this silly notion. I'm afraid those of us who drive in hot climates may pay a price in excessive engine wear, but only after our cars are slightly out of warranty. Gas mileage was the ONLY reason that GM cooked up that stupid "Skip Shift" 1st to 4th feature I hated so badly on my previous Camaro SS 6 Speed. The manufacturers will try all kinds of squirrelly things to be either politically correct or meet a specific fuel goal. It won't be at the expense of my engine by using 5-20 oil! I switched to Mobil 1 at 3k and plan to stick with it.
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4,120 Posts
In order to ensure that lighter viscosity 5W-20 oils don’t sacrifice engine durability, Ford created its own oil specification known as the WSS-M2C153-H, which includes all ILSAC (GF-3) requirements, as well as an additional ASTM Sequence III Test.
Lots of links on the 5W-20 specs
http://www.quicksurf.com/ths/Bullitt/BUPG5/
Honda went to it and is recomending it for some of their older cars, (Certain models back to 99 I think) No incentive for Honda to recomend it for older vehicles.
Lots of links on the 5W-20 specs
http://www.quicksurf.com/ths/Bullitt/BUPG5/
Honda went to it and is recomending it for some of their older cars, (Certain models back to 99 I think) No incentive for Honda to recomend it for older vehicles.
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1,169 Posts
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-08-17 23:18, LesnTea wrote:
I'm a Castrol Syntec user too. I put in 6 quarts, along wiht a Fram oil filter, at 1000 miles. Next change will be at 5K and then every 5K after that. 5, 10, 15...now that's easy to remember! Using 5W30 for now until they come out with a 5W20.
I've still got my paper filter in and will probably leave it until it actually needs changed. How important is filtering the air anyway?? Of course big gooy bugs and sand would be bad but anything smaller is just sucked in, blown up, and blasted out right? I suppose over time the valves and valve seats might suffer but anything a K & N might let in would take forever to do any serious damage.
Oh, but what about vacume? Hows that created in an engine? Where's that air coming from? Geez, there is so much I don't have a clue about!!
OK, starting to ramble and deffenetly not helping DHG 2766. Sorry. Bye.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>Did you put the 6 quarts in your Bullitt?
On 2001-08-17 23:18, LesnTea wrote:
I'm a Castrol Syntec user too. I put in 6 quarts, along wiht a Fram oil filter, at 1000 miles. Next change will be at 5K and then every 5K after that. 5, 10, 15...now that's easy to remember! Using 5W30 for now until they come out with a 5W20.
I've still got my paper filter in and will probably leave it until it actually needs changed. How important is filtering the air anyway?? Of course big gooy bugs and sand would be bad but anything smaller is just sucked in, blown up, and blasted out right? I suppose over time the valves and valve seats might suffer but anything a K & N might let in would take forever to do any serious damage.
Oh, but what about vacume? Hows that created in an engine? Where's that air coming from? Geez, there is so much I don't have a clue about!!
OK, starting to ramble and deffenetly not helping DHG 2766. Sorry. Bye.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>Did you put the 6 quarts in your Bullitt?
5 quarts are required.....that includes filter change....
(Boy I miss that spell check function)_________________
Jim
It's all about the passion.
2001 Mustang GT Bullitt...dark highland green...#1302
1999 Mustang GT...black...4.6...5 speed
19641/2 Mustang blue...289...automatic
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG #1302 on 2001-08-20 13:57 ]</font>
(Boy I miss that spell check function)_________________
Jim
It's all about the passion.
2001 Mustang GT Bullitt...dark highland green...#1302
1999 Mustang GT...black...4.6...5 speed
19641/2 Mustang blue...289...automatic
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG #1302 on 2001-08-20 13:57 ]</font>
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