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i need to know if you guys think i'm dreaming?
after i changed my shifter saturday, i went ahead and put my K & N air filter in. while i had the cannister off, i also went ahead and removed my air silencer and left it off the vehicle!! i might be crazy BUT i feel like i REALLY made a difference by doing those 2 tiny things.
the car is a little louder at idle, that's nice. but at FULL throttle acceleration thru 4th gear , i hear a BIG difference and also feel a difference. the engine has a MUCH throaty and louder sound at mid to high RPM's and i SWEAR that i feel a very noticable "Seat Of The Pants" difference at 2500 to 5000 RPM's!!
am i nuts??????????

i'd really like someone else's feedback that has installed a K & N AND removed their air silencer!!!

maybe it's just wishful thinking on my part but i KNOW it's faster and pulls stronger above 2500 RPMs!!!!! i'm very surprised that it feels so noticable!! i expected very little from this
brian or Mus408 or others,...am i crazy????

_________________
mystang99 - (Marty)
2001 Bullitt DHG #648
Ford Racing Alum. Driveshaft(on order)
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, K & N Filter,
Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar Brake Pads(on order)
MGWLTD-All custom Satin Bullitt Bits & Pieces

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mystang99 on 2001-08-27 12:39 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mystang99 on 2001-08-27 14:19 ]</font>
 

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oh, 2nd thing....maybe someone can explain this too!
ever since i put the K & N filter in and removed the air silencer,...my "SERVICE ENGINE" light has been on. then at lunch time today it's now off and has stayed off!!!

i ASSUME that the engine computer was sensing increased air flow and was notifying me that something was wrong. But now that the light went out, i assume that the computer has "learned" to accept the increased air flow and adjusted to it!

any thoughts???
 

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I thought I felt a noticeable difference when I did the same to mine. However, I disconnected the battery for a couple of hours prior to starting it up again and then took it out for a hard ride so it could relearn everything again. My engine light has not come on at all. I notice the difference right around 4,000 when the engine really starts to get throaty. If you pop the hood, go over to your filter and place your hand down there then give your engine a quick rev, you will feel how much more air is accessible to the engine now. Now imagine what it was like trying to breath through that silencer! As an after thought, don't stick your hands by any moving parts!! :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks cooler, i'm glad i'm not the only one!
 

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there is no signifigance difference. I've made runs at the track with the stock setup, k&n setup, silencer in/silencer out, and I've run very similiar times. Nothing earth shattering to indicate one was better than the other.

My bud Steve Drier at Houston Performance has indicated similair results from dyno runs. Assuming exact same cool down times, k&n filters and silencer in/out showed almost identical power/tq outputs SAE corrected.

I run a k&n and trimmed silencer because I like the way it sounds. The exhaust note is definitely noticeable :grin: That's probably the placebo effect on most everyones butt-o-meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i thought that might have something to do with it JB
man, tough crowd tonight(Cam & Eric), bunch of comedians!!(Cam, don't quit that day job for you new career in comedy!!-LOL)
 

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you know, this subject is kinda ironic because I just received my new MMFF(10/01). They tested a 01 Cobra 'Vert and claimed a mph and a .1 in the 1/4 by removing the silencer. This was by Evan Smith.

So I guess maybe different cars react differently. It did not help mine. Of course, it's a cheap experiment so probably worth it to at least try different ways. The track does not lie if the cool down periods are the same and the weather is the same.
 

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Hey, even if it REALLY doesn't make any big gains at least it sounds good! :smile: IMHO
 

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Does anyone have the part number for a K&N filter? Last night I removed that screen/silencer. This morning I will give it a test and see if I can feel any difference. Love my Bullitt! :grin:
 

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I don't remember the part number off the top of my head, but let me know how the screen removal goes. I'd be interested in hearing if it made any improvements.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
cooler is correct. it fits 99 and up GT's
 

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Well it would be hard to see a 1 to 3 HP difference at the track. I question some of these drag tests. Takes more than 3 HP at rearwheels to get 1 MPH gain. I ran my Bullitt with the KN and a ram-air setup at the fog light opening,and ran 14.10 at only 99.7. About average for a Bullitt. Of coures my track is really bad for good traction. Next outing will be running the Densecharger 4 inch CAI setup.
 

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Thank you guys!

After I removed the screen I noticed a slight performance improvement. It pulls stronger between 3500-4000up. Now I am going out today and purchase a K&N filter. I am also going to call SuperChips. Need MORE ponies!!!:D

Thanks again guys for all your help. :smile:
 

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Am I crazy or should more people be checking out Cold Air Induction from Densecharger. Everyone runs out and buys a K&N (I couldn't find one for less than 50 bucks, plus tax is 54). But the Densecharger with filter with shipping comes to 94. Considering there is on tax on interstate purchases, that's 40 bucks for Cold Air Induction--an even cheaper mod than the K&N, with probably more benefits.

I bought a K&N yesterday, then saw all the stuff about the Densechager, so now i'm gonna take back the filter and buy the CAI. Any thoughts on this?
 

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As a Mustang enthusiast my original idea of purchasing the K&Ns in mass quantity enabled me to pass on the savings by incorporating the induction system as a package. As the systems have evolved my subsequent testing with different K&Ns has also shown definate performance differences with their racing filterchargers compared to their emissions filters. The racing filterchargers are what made K&N famous! The standard RU3530 racing filtercharger in the 3" system flows 643 CFM. The 4.6 requires 525 CFM, making the RU3530 118 CFM more than is necessary. You can go too small or just what is required but oversizing with the filterchargers adds more and more performance. You can go too long and begin to affect idle. I've discovered that the bigger the diameter the better the filters' performance. The new 100MM system utilizes a RU3480 6" K&N. I've had several inquiries as to why I would go shorter with the new system. It's the diameter difference which matters more than length. This K&N is 112MM at the air entryway. It's the same type filtercharger used in blower applications needing more intake volume. It's also a little easier to locate this filter in different positions with it a little shorter. I installed one on my 5.0 to compare to the 9" with an 80MM entryway diameter, thinking there was no way this would outflow the 9", but it did! The new K&N 3480 retails at $57.00, with the current 3530 retailing at $46.00. All of the factory emissions filters diminish performance when compared to the racing filterchargers to meet more stringent emissions levels. The "E" designation in their part number refers to "emissions" with "RU" equalling "racing universal filtercharger". If there wasn't a difference in airflow there wouldn't be any reason for the different designations. A racing filtercharger located in a colder, isolated location delivers the most performance possible with draw through meters.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: JP DEMOLET on 2001-09-22 18:29 ]</font>
 

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On 2001-08-27 14:06, mystang99 wrote:
oh, 2nd thing....maybe someone can explain this too!
ever since i put the K & N filter in and removed the air silencer,...my "SERVICE ENGINE" light has been on. then at lunch time today it's now off and has stayed off!!!

i ASSUME that the engine computer was sensing increased air flow and was notifying me that something was wrong. But now that the light went out, i assume that the computer has "learned" to accept the increased air flow and adjusted to it!

any thoughts???

Check the Mass Air Connection.
The light came on when I put on a ram-air kit on my 98 GT.
Had to replace Mass Air!!!!
 

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Anytime you do an intake mod and get the "check engine light" it's because you've affected the MAF calibration. I worried about this and waited for about 2 months on the R&D Mustangs, with switching the filters, before releasing the system to market. I still worried until there were a couple hundred systems in service with no check engine lights. I've had this problem with aftermarket meters and won't combo my system. The ram air somehow affected the calibration, possibly ingesting some debris which could block enough airflow to make the meter go "rich".
 
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