Would definetley like some photos of the car when finished, and a ride report on how you think everything improved the drive. I really wish there were more options for me to hit some curvy roads but sadly its more stop light to stoplight with the occasional twisty bit.
Last round of mods for this car
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Got it done. Lot of work. Took about 8hrs start to finish. Radiator core support went in easy. K-member is bit more involved but went in without any issues. Had to make some holes and made some brackets for OEM stuff to fit nicely since I don’t like too many zip ties. Also made some tabs and weld them on to rear brace so I could re-use the torque links. Both of rear Koni’s were blown so went with front and rear Bilsteins this time. Also I think my steering rack is shot. Alignment tomorrow.
Attachments
Installed a trinity oil pan and wanted to update.
Parts you need:
Trinity cast aluminum oil pan DR3Z-6675-A
8 quarts of oil & oil filter
05-2012 4.6/5.2/5.4 3L3Z-6710-AA or trinity oil pan gasket BR3Z-6710-B
Clean and reuse factory oil pan bolts(they are plenty long enough)
You can either use trinity oil pan gasket with built in plastic windage tray or use oem 4.6 oil pan gasket. I decided to use 4.6 gasket since this engine already comes with nice metal windage tray from factory. If you decide to use the newer design trinity oil pan gasket, you will need to remove the factory metal windage tray, oil pick up and trim, clearance the plastic windage tray in certain areas to fit properly (quick and easy with dremel).
Aftermarket k-member helps a lot here and offers plenty of clearance to remove the oem oil pan. However if you are working with factory k-member, you will need to remove the engine mount nuts, support the engine and lower the k-member considerably. You will also need to remove factory thread locked steering rack bolts from the top side(this is important: don’t try to remove the welded nuts on the bottom side), disconnect the steering shaft from the rack to have enough clearance to remove the oil pan, this also means you may need to get the car realigned afterwards if you are critical.
Trinity GT500 oil pan is stepped design with very thick flange unlike factory or aftermarket oil pans such as canton or moroso. Even with this aftermarket k-member, the engine needed to be raised approx 1/2” inch or so for pan to clear the mm k-member. Steering shaft also had to be disconnected and the rack had to be freed so you can move it forward and backwards to create more space. The new pan and the gasket will clear the factory oil pick up and slide in easily afterwards.
This job took me about 3 hours from start to finish with the mm k-member, If you have a factory k-member, this job will take an additional hour or more. It was very straight forward and easy to do.
My final thoughts: if I were to do this again, just get the aftermarket t-pan from moroso or canton with trap doors for the same price or less
Parts you need:
Trinity cast aluminum oil pan DR3Z-6675-A
8 quarts of oil & oil filter
05-2012 4.6/5.2/5.4 3L3Z-6710-AA or trinity oil pan gasket BR3Z-6710-B
Clean and reuse factory oil pan bolts(they are plenty long enough)
You can either use trinity oil pan gasket with built in plastic windage tray or use oem 4.6 oil pan gasket. I decided to use 4.6 gasket since this engine already comes with nice metal windage tray from factory. If you decide to use the newer design trinity oil pan gasket, you will need to remove the factory metal windage tray, oil pick up and trim, clearance the plastic windage tray in certain areas to fit properly (quick and easy with dremel).
Aftermarket k-member helps a lot here and offers plenty of clearance to remove the oem oil pan. However if you are working with factory k-member, you will need to remove the engine mount nuts, support the engine and lower the k-member considerably. You will also need to remove factory thread locked steering rack bolts from the top side(this is important: don’t try to remove the welded nuts on the bottom side), disconnect the steering shaft from the rack to have enough clearance to remove the oil pan, this also means you may need to get the car realigned afterwards if you are critical.
Trinity GT500 oil pan is stepped design with very thick flange unlike factory or aftermarket oil pans such as canton or moroso. Even with this aftermarket k-member, the engine needed to be raised approx 1/2” inch or so for pan to clear the mm k-member. Steering shaft also had to be disconnected and the rack had to be freed so you can move it forward and backwards to create more space. The new pan and the gasket will clear the factory oil pick up and slide in easily afterwards.
This job took me about 3 hours from start to finish with the mm k-member, If you have a factory k-member, this job will take an additional hour or more. It was very straight forward and easy to do.
My final thoughts: if I were to do this again, just get the aftermarket t-pan from moroso or canton with trap doors for the same price or less
Attachments
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
