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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, evidently I have some body flex from the dig. I just fit some New BFGoodrich T/A KDW g-force tires all around and they are definitely making this worse.

I just graduated and ran into some money, and I have already been looking around for sus. mods.

Id like to have these:
-full-length subframe connectors
-rear shock tower brace
-strut tower brace

SO if anyone has tried any of these chime in please!!!!!!!!!!
Prices, links, brands, benefits, and opinions would be greatly appreciated:wink: :wink:

THANKS
-aaron
 

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Sub-frame connectors: yes, do it first. They don`t even have to be full length.
The strut tower braces are really not necessary.
If you are going to do any motor cross, CC plates are a good idea.
If you are just into the 1/4 mile in a straight line you pobably should consider Lower Control Arms (LCAs).
Maximum Motor Sports is about the best. Check out their web site and you might even phone them and talk to them about your goals. They are very knowledgeable and helpful.
 

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there's a million things you can do to the suspension, but don't waste you cash on the strut tower or shock tower braces.
 

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+1 to everything that Doc said, but I would do full length subframes. I would also stick to Steeda FL SF's. You will see why when you take them out of the box. Man, they are monstrous!

'monstrous'? Is that a word? Well, you know what I meant! :bigguns:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can someone tell me whether steeda full-length sub-frame connectors are better(stronger, lighter, etc.) than Maximum Motorsports XL SFCs.
that would help extremely lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ALSO: my bullitt seems to scrape almost everywhere now, even when theres just a slight incline when going 25-40... I really need to raise it atleast 1/2-1 inch despite how good it looks... The front end rubs on the outer wheel well, and today as i was slowing down quickly my front lip was skimming the ground...
The owner before me said he took the isolators off the front struts making it sit a little lower, so should i try that first???
 

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aaron3536 said:
Can someone tell me whether steeda full-length sub-frame connectors are better(stronger, lighter, etc.) than Maximum Motorsports XL SFCs.
that would help extremely lol
My reading indicates the opposite. MM is beefier, BUT the Steedas are easier to install (zinc coated + fewer pieces). You have someone lined up for the installation? Let me know how it turns out, always looking for another Beta-Bullitt....
:wink:
Jeff
 

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I don't know about the MM "XL" SFC's, but 2-3 years ago when I did my SFC's, the Steeda's were beefier, which is why I went that way...

A local speedshop did the welding on my SFC's, torque boxes, drive shaft safety loop, and axle tubes. They had one of their cars up on the lift and I saw the MM ones in person. They looked much more flimsy in person back then compared to the Steeda's. But again, I know nothing about the "XL" ones from MM. They may be different.
 

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aaron3536 said:
where do i buy the isolators?
cuz 1/2" is all i need

www.speedconcepts.net

By the way I have the MM XL Subframes. Granted they came with alot of peices but u have to understand these things r trying to support the whole car from flexing, so the more parts holding on to the unibody the better my $.02
 

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luke partridge said:
there's a million things you can do to the suspension, but don't waste you cash on the strut tower or shock tower braces.
Absolutely Right! Griggs Racing has excellent suspension products also - http://www.griggsracing.com
 

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luke partridge said:
there's a million things you can do to the suspension, but don't waste you cash on the strut tower or shock tower braces.

I understand not using the strut tower brace, but physically, the shock tower brace gets the rear around faster in the corners. I have one, and that was the first thing that I noticed on the twisty road I used to live on. I have to recommend it, and it's not that heavy. It took a lot of slop out of slightly fishtailing without it.
 

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MustangMarkus said:
I understand not using the strut tower brace, but physically, the shock tower brace gets the rear around faster in the corners. I have one, and that was the first thing that I noticed on the twisty road I used to live on. I have to recommend it, and it's not that heavy. It took a lot of slop out of slightly fishtailing without it.
the tower braces do a make a difference, it's just either small, or not quite in the right place. a panhard bar and torque arm tie the entire rear axle to the frame and also lower the center of gravity. sure, a shock tower brace stops a small amount of lateral movement, but if you just add a panhard bar, you've eliminated all, side-to-side movement while also putting the weight of the axle lower.

hey, it's you money, but the heavier panhard bar works wonders, and a torque arm completely transforms the car. all of the current champs in the american iron series use that set-up from either grigg's, maximum motorsports, or steeda. nascar uses a similar setup, but obviously more sophisticated and on a longer wheelbase in a tube frame car. it works very, very well. the trouble is, all your money is in a place that nobody can see it. unless, of course, your on their ass on a road course with them wondering how the hell a crap old mustang is chasing down their porsche (either that or you take really nice shots on a rack, ala bullitt 1005).

i know absolute **** about drag racing, but i'd imagine the ol' 4-link is better for that.

that being said, sell the brace and get a panhard bar. trust me.
 

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I understand. You are speaking more toward a road-racing car. I feel the way about road-racing as you do about drag racing. I have no need for the panhard bar nor the weight of it for drag racing. The shock tower brace took some of the flex of the off-the-line away for me. It's all in what you want to do... But good info nonetheless.

It's been said on here before from some of the die-hard road-racers that the strut tower brace does nothing, and is a waste of money. I would trust their experience.
 

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sure, sounds reasonable. i've never drag raced, so i know nadda. however, i do wonder what just the panhard bar would do for your stock set-up in drag racing. i could totally be wrong, but wouldn't that extra weight low and in the back, and the torsional rigidity of the rear axle work better? i'm just thinking about my limited knowledge of physics. it's still a 4-link, just stronger and tighter. hey, might be worth calling a maximum motorsports or grigg's.

i'll admit though, i bought both the strut tower and shock tower braces. just didn't do it for me.
 
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