What are your thoughts about removing the MAF screen. Will the engine run better? Some say removing it allows for more air flow causing the engine to run better. Others say leave it in as it keeps the turbulence down across the sensor allowing for a more accurate reading and better running engine. Leave in? Remove?
MAF screen removal
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Most manufacturers use some form of screen in front of the MAF. They are there to act as debris screens, for induction noise or as flow straighteners. I think ours are there just as a debris screen. Typically, they are restrictive to airflow so we all remove them. A K&N does a great job of flow straightening which addresses that concern so I have mine removed. :smile:
Brian
I think
Brian
I think
When I had my 98 LS-1 Camaro, I removed the MAF screen and removed the aluminum bar through the middle of the MAF sensor. This really made a difference that you could feel via SOTP. Would I do it again on this car, maybe. I have to take a look at what is in there.
I probably would buy a second stock one and swap it in as a spare in case the dealer had an issue with it when you brought it in for warranty work.
It does work, I am just not sure as the extent of it's effectiveness on these cars because I haven't tried it yet.
Paul G.
I probably would buy a second stock one and swap it in as a spare in case the dealer had an issue with it when you brought it in for warranty work.
It does work, I am just not sure as the extent of it's effectiveness on these cars because I haven't tried it yet.
Paul G.
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I removed mine and no problems. Seems to sound a little meaner. My PI crown vic does not have a screen on it, so I assumed that it would no problem removing it.
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Be carefull about removing the center support. I modified one on a cnc mill and am having it tested for flow. According to the other parties involved it probably will require a reburning in of the sensor since it will increase or alter the flow. Something about fluid dynamics they said???Outa my league. Anyway if you would modify it the air must go thru the little port in which the sensor is in. Do not block this off. If you take it off and look on the rear of the center support its like a tunnel that brings the air from the sensor port sown with a back baffle plate, this is the part I,m saying do not block off. I removed that whole plate and its just a straight shot thru the sensor port. Will let you all know about the results when I get them.
Don't mess w/ the center post on your MAF. I spent a great deal of time discussing this with MAF sensor designer/engineer. The sensor relies on the sampled air to flow through the post to get an accurate reading.
Sometimes people can get away cutting the post, but more often than not there are serious driveability issues, and require replacing the MAFS.
If you really feel that you need more flow through your MAF, go buy an aftermarket one, my experience is that Pro-M is one of the better ones, though I am sure there are many good ones out there.
Sometimes people can get away cutting the post, but more often than not there are serious driveability issues, and require replacing the MAFS.
If you really feel that you need more flow through your MAF, go buy an aftermarket one, my experience is that Pro-M is one of the better ones, though I am sure there are many good ones out there.
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You are right Rara, but I modify these often for SVO. They burn in a new sensor because the air flow has been changed. This is what is being done hopefully today. I didn't modify my original though.
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The C & L 80mm unit works very well in my 96 Cobra. Uses the stock electronics and flows twice as well. No driveability problems yet.
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Well I installed the modified MAF unit with its recalibrated sensor along with a K&N stock replacement filter. Can't really notice that much of a change by the seat of my pants but she seems to respond a little quicker. I eventually want to fabricate some kind of ram air type set-up to the fog lamp opening. I'll need a screen in front there to keep those GM's from getting sucked up.
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