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Charles
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Discussion Starter #1
As previously posted I had the pilot bearuing, TOB, clutch fork and ball stud replaced in my car as the bearings were squealing. The pilot bearing was essentially in pieces. This work took care of the squeal, took away some looseness in the parts, and got rid of a vibration the car had.

Two weeks later now. The vibration is starting again ever so slightly and the squeal is back. I talked to Houston Performance again today. They reiterated that the input shaft on the tranny did not have any slop in it. I thought a bad input shaft or bearing could have been causing the problem originally. There were going to discuss it and get back to me.

I talked to D&D and Promotion this afternoon. Walt at Promotion said the input shaft could be twisted just the slightest amount and that would cause pilot bearing failure. D&D essentially agreed to the same thing. I know Walt is in a position to sell a transmission but he also is very reputable from what I've read. Although I have never dumped the clutch at 5000 rpm or ran the car with slicks, he said a twisted shaft was still very plausible if I've power shifted the thing. Guilty.

Short of pulling it out and dissecting the tranny I can only speculate but I would be willing to bet this is it. The pilot bearing was originally installed in April and lasted less than six months. Now I'm getting the same symptons. Not good.

I will update when I know more.
 

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Repairing our Bullitt transmissions is probably not a good idea. Scott Hoag (MRT) has a deal on a better Tremec and the price/peace of mind seem to be worth it.
 

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Have you priced one out at a J/Y? I know what that sounds like. Getting someone else's issues. After a wreck did who knows what to it. But some J/Y do offer warranties. I put one in my son's ZX2 five years and over 100K ago. The original should have lasted so long. I bought the warranty. It was a waste of money. No problems. Just what I would do with 1152 should the need arise. I'll be open to all solutions. And $ make sense. I wouldn't do it on the cheap. But then again, I'd sure do a cost benefit ratio of what sounds better in the long run.:neutral:
 

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Bullitt 736 said:
Assuming that mine is trash, I have the choice of having it rebuilt, buying a rebuilt unit from Promotion with all the TSB items covered, buying a rebuilt unit from Promotion that's built, or converting to T-56. I'm not 100% sold on the TKO tranny. Something to think about. None of the options are inexpensive.

Have you got some cost figures for say...a T-56(5 or 6 speed) compared to the rebuild of ur tranny?

Thanks
 

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Charles
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Discussion Starter #6
DavidMidgley said:
Have you priced one out at a J/Y? I know what that sounds like. Getting someone else's issues. After a wreck did who knows what to it. But some J/Y do offer warranties. I put one in my son's ZX2 five years and over 100K ago. The original should have lasted so long. I bought the warranty. It was a waste of money. No problems. Just what I would do with 1152 should the need arise. I'll be open to all solutions. And $ make sense. I wouldn't do it on the cheap. But then again, I'd sure do a cost benefit ratio of what sounds better in the long run.:neutral:
I'm going to check with the mechanic that got a tranny for my son's car and see what kind of deal he can work out.
 

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Memo for the record:

1. I have been told that installing a T-56 six speed requires a "slight modification" of the driveshaft tunnel due to clearance problems. I do not know how credible this is ... (???)

2. When asked, they said they did theirs with a "small sledge hammer" and a "little bit was all it took".

3. I asked if this mod was necessary if installing in 2003-2004 models (due to the Cobra those years having the T-56 factory-installed). The individuals I spoke to said they did not know this one way or the other as they were installing one in a 2000 or 2001 ... (???)

They also said they did not know if the trans tunnel was modified by Ford in 2003 for just such a factory install, nor did they know if the factory mod (if such exists) applied to the Cobra package alone or if all 2003-2004 model Mustangs had this mod ... (???)

4. They insisted this mod was "absolutely necessary".

Just thought it might give Yall something extra to think about if contemplating this type of swap.
 

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Bullitt 736 said:
I've heard the same. Some cars have needed it and some have not. I'm good at hammering stuff. :wink:
For all the right reasons I'd like to caution further that the sheet metal used to form the unitized chasis (car body to include the floorpans, etc.) supposedly is much thinner gauge than it used to be back in the 60's and 70's. If this is the case then the factory spot welds stand to be somewhat weaker. I don't know which years would need the "custom massaging" of the trans tunnel or not but it might not take too much to bust a spot weld you wouldn't really want to bust if you have to modify that particular area ... (???)

You might want to measure for any interference(s)/differences by checking your BULLITT measurements with the current trans with a T-56 after maybe by finding a nice, patient 2003-2004 Cobra owner who would let you crawl around and take a good look, measurements, etc,. If the T-56 interference is at a panel seam (on the floor, floor-to-firewall, etc,.) you might want to consider a "cut-and-paste-and-weld" as opposed to a "panel massage", etc, ... (???)

Not trying to tell you how to take care of your business but I'd just hate to see someone make a small mistake that may make them sick as a dog about afterwards.
 

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Bullitt 736 said:
I've heard the same. Some cars have needed it and some have not. I'm good at hammering stuff. :wink:
For all the right reasons I'd like to caution further that the sheet metal used to form the unitized chasis (car body to include the floorpans, etc.) supposedly is much thinner gauge than it used to be back in the 60's and 70's. If this is the case then the factory spot welds stand to be somewhat weaker. I don't know which years would need the "custom massaging" of the trans tunnel or not but it might not take too much to bust a spot weld you wouldn't really want to bust if you have to modify that particular area ... (???)

You might want to measure for any interference(s)/differences by checking your BULLITT measurements with the current trans with a T-56 after maybe by finding a nice, patient 2003-2004 Cobra owner who would let you crawl around and take a good look, measurements, etc,. If the T-56 interference is at a panel seam (on the floor, floor-to-firewall, etc,.) you might want to consider a "cut-and-paste-and-weld" as opposed to a "panel massage", etc, ... (???)

Not trying to tell you how to take care of your business but I'd just hate to see someone make a small mistake that may make them sick as a dog about afterwards.
 

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I believe some Bullitt owner/s have done this install
 

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DavidMidgley said:
Ask them to use a block of wood between the panel being massaged and the hammer.:rolleyes:
I'm not necessarily referring to the hammer busting/tearing thru a flat sheet metal panel as much as the hammering seperating to panels joined at a seam. I guess the best thing to do would be to see where the interference might be (if any) and go from there.

A T-56 would be a nice mod, especially if the original tranny is shot and it has to be replaced anyway.
 

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rblack4405 said:
I believe some Bullitt owner/s have done this install
Yes, I remember seeing that discussed on here and with no references to interference problems. I did hear (from sources elsewhere) of some problems though and thought it might be worth posting on here for reference purposes.

Sounds like a great idea to me. The more gears the better !!!
 

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TXBLUOVAL said:
Yes, I remember seeing that discussed on here and with no references to interference problems. I did hear (from sources elsewhere) of some problems though and thought it might be worth posting on here for reference purposes.

Sounds like a great idea to me. The more gears the better !!!

Talk to Mainebullitt. I asked him the same question because I knew his car has the T56. He sent me the link from Mraburn's write up on #0005 when they did the T56 swap. He makes mention of the "minor massaging" of the tunnel.
 

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TXBLUOVAL said:
I'm not necessarily referring to the hammer busting/tearing thru a flat sheet metal panel as much as the hammering seperating to panels joined at a seam. I guess the best thing to do would be to see where the interference might be (if any) and go from there.

A T-56 would be a nice mod, especially if the original tranny is shot and it has to be replaced anyway.
You are correct. And I understood what your concerns with the hammer massage is, and I am sure the others did as well.

I was just kidding around.

IMHO, I don't know that I would want another gear. Living in the Metromess of DFW isn't exactly conducive to using the second OD (sixth) gear.
 

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DavidMidgley said:
You are correct. And I understood what your concerns with the hammer massage is, and I am sure the others did as well.

I was just kidding around.

IMHO, I don't know that I would want another gear. Living in the Metromess of DFW isn't exactly conducive to using the second OD (sixth) gear.
"METROMESS" ... outstanding term. Absolutely applies to Houston, too ... (ROFLMAO)

By the way ... If and when using the block of wood, think I should be left up there just to make sure there is clearance under any conditions, or what???
 

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Bullitt 736 said:
Alan (P-51) had SWT install a T-56 and he seemed to really like it. The good news about the T-56 is it is a closer ratio than the 3650. When you bang thru the first four gears the RPM range is more consistent.

If there is a clearance issue I don't think it takes very much massaging at all.
Just curious ... Isn't the T-56 available with more than one gear ratio? I'm thinking I read about that somewhere a couple of years ago.
 
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