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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. Now that I have my new to me Bullitt I am thinking of setting my goals going forward. The car has 100k+ miles on it so I am not necessarily bent on keeping everything original. Even if Bullitts appreciate at some point, my will be worth less due to the high miles. But I think my goals going forward will be to go at least full bolt on. So far, I have an off road x pipe, aftermarket catback, and xCal2. I am thinking that in the near future I would like to add a JLT CAI, long tube headers, and possibly an after market underdrive pulley. The main question that I had about the pulleys is I thought that Bullitt's already had underdrive pulleys (compared to a stock gt). If that is the case are new pullies worth it? Are there gains to be had vs.the stock bullitt pullies? Once I have all of these items I think that would put me about as good as it gets without opening the engine, cams, ported head etc. Once the bolt ons are done, I would like to have my car dyno tuned to make the most of the bolt ons. With that, I expect to hit over 300hp at the crank. I would love to push 300 at the wheels, but I don't think that will happen w/o ported heads and cams but that is beside the point.

Do these goals seem realistic? I'm thinking that once I go full bolt on, I can make the decision to go S/C or to start looking for a termi.

With the bolt ons mentioned above and a custom dyno tune, what numbers should I expect to put down?
 

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With what you'll have done after you're finished I can't see you not hitting 300 engine hp depending on how tight the motor still is. However, I think with 100k miles on it I would suggest you save your bolt on money, save up a bit ... ok a lot more and build the motor from the ground up with bullet proof parts so that later on when you go the sc route you're not building everything twice. Either way have fun with it.
 

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kaylan1521 said:
With what you'll have done after you're finished I can't see you not hitting 300 engine hp depending on how tight the motor still is. However, I think with 100k miles on it I would suggest you save your bolt on money, save up a bit ... ok a lot more and build the motor from the ground up with bullet proof parts so that later on when you go the sc route you're not building everything twice. Either way have fun with it.
bullet proof parts? Do you mean forged internals like he could do more than 6# of boost?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking that once I get the bolt ons done, I will wait until I decide what my plans are after that before doing any engine work. If I am going to by a termi then there won't be any reason to sink more money into another S/C. There may not be a S/C in the bullitt's future
 

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Either way you go I think it would be awsome, but I do strongly agree with kaylan1521. If you do plan on keeping the car and still having it as a daily driver re-building the engine would be the best way to go. I believe it would save you money in the long run. If your budget allows it I'd say put a Navi engine between them shock towers!! 5.4 :drool2:
 

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I did the full bolt-on route first. I had BBK Longtube headers, Dr. Gas O/R X-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, MAC CAI, Denso plugs, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, and a tune. The car only made 262rwhp and I spent over $2000. It really is not worth it to do bolt-ons. If it were me the only bolt-on I'd do is an O/R midpipe and whatever catback you like. I'd leave everything else off and save the money for a power adder or built engine. If you don't already have them, seriously consider upgrading to 3.73 or 4.10 gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
That sounds about right. 260 to the wheels looks like around 300-310 at the crank with a 12-15% drivetrain loss. That is about what I am expecting. Once I get to that point I would most likely rebuild the motor.

By bulet proof parts do you mean forged pistons? I've read that the cast crank can handle up to 600 hp w/o problems. I don't think I will have the money to exceed that mark so I don't think it would be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I guess this is my point. I want to get to full bolt on status before I consider doing any engine work. Once I get to that point I will have a better idea of my goals going forward. With that said, I'm wondering if the Steeda UD pullies will show any gains on the Bullitt. I'm thinking the JLT real CAI and pullies would be a good start. After that, maybe LT headers if I can keep my current midpipe and just have the exhaust shop fab up some flanges further down. So.....
CAI
UD Pullies
Headers
and a new dyno tune...

Am I leaving anything else on the table?
 

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if you decide to do engine work and get heads, cams, might as well do crank. also the long tubes will provide some good sound for the stage two cams and heads. a good company is vt. patriot heads i heard are good too. this will cost you some big bucks. probably better money wise vs horsepower to add supercharger now and not waste money on engine. your stock internals are good for around 400-450 but not passed that. of course someone has blown their engine up at like 400 but for the most part ure fine. if you ever think of going passed that forge your internals, valve springs too. i have the same idea as you. i wanna get all bolts on first just because i like the sound. its not for hp gains. after that i will save for heads and then cams and crank and springs. the sound you will get is awesome, it just takes time. since my bullitt won't be a daily driver i don't mind having it out of commission for some time. good luck. i had slp catted x pipe and their catback loudmouth system. that is so loud. i also had an offroad h pipe and the catback and that was the loudest system i have ever heard. everything else was stock, engine stock, not even cai. k&n filter, air silencer gone, stock headers, o/r h pipe and loudmouth = headache eventually but fun. this was on my 04 gt that i sold a couple months back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
VT is going out of business and not in the clearance sale way either. I would not suggest doing any business with them until this situation is resolved. On modularfords.com, there are some threads discussing this topic. Seems like a lot of people are having to work with their credit card companies to get their money back.

Pretty much I want to get to full bolt on status, then I can decide if I want to go further or if I can go futher budget wise. To be honest, I probably will not go S/C. I just can't see dropping that kind of coin. At the most, I'll have to get the engine rebuilt due to the mileage. At that point I would probably drop in some higher compression forged pistons and new cams during the rebuild, then call it done. Once again, I am getting a head of myself. I think my next purchase will be the CAI and pullies.
 

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VT as in Jim, Scott and Chris are going down.....

VTCED = The source and engine builders are still there in the same shop putting out the same quality motors as they always have......

And yes, pick up some nice used bolt-ons, save your $$$ and have fun in the meantime.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So how are VT and VTCED different? One is the builder and one is the reseller?
 

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here is my setup i have bbk LT's bassani catted mid pipe and borla catback. With JLT CAI BBK throttle body no pullie gearheads said a waste of money. I do have a forged bottom end cobra crank p&p heads comp blower cams I dynoed at 267hp and 307tq to the wheels. The compression from it being built with blower cams is what held me back thats why i ordered a procharger D1. If you have 260 to the wheels you have 300 at the flywheel but if i were you build your motor then supercharge it the just put a better throttle body on and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did you say no pullie?
 
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