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On 2001-10-30 14:09, Barnaby wrote:
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On 2001-10-30 13:48, cmezip wrote:
I have upgraded my mach 460 system in order to actually get some bass and be able to turn it up above half way with out the speakers freaking out. I hooked up a sub to the rear amp and put a passive crossover on the fronts (220 mf)
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What frequency were you targeting for your x-over point. I think the factory drivers are either 3 ohm or 6. So that puts a 220mf cap somewhere between 150 and 350. Sounds pretty safe. Did you lose an appreciable amount of midbass up front?
Actually they are 7 ohm each and they are wired in parallel (fronts one amp rear another) I wasn't going for any "point" I went with what sounds best, I have a large variety of caps and coils at the house and I work for a Stereo shop part time, I have been installing for 12 years. I lost no midbass because it is a 3.5 ohm load across the speaker so the crossover point is below 200 and the sub in the rear is crossed over a bit high. I would recommend trying a couple of different 100V caps in the 150-300 mfd range. I used high quality caps and they do make a difference from "bass blockers"
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So far I have seen no easy mods for replacing the tweeter mid combos in front. So I crossed them over so they could actually reproduce frequencies they were capable of. (You could replace with a better midbass but you would need to match the efficiency of the stock ones.)
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The strange thing here are the tweeters(if you can call them that) have a separate amp from the door speakers.
No they do not, this is different from the previous stereo systems ford has installed in mustangs. There is no amp under the radio any longer. The speakers are feed directly from the head unit and crossed over in the head unit. I have not 100% confirmed this (crossover in radio) but I am 99% sure that is how they did it
Might be an interesting project to replace all the door speakers with good mids and tweets wired to the factory amps. Anyone want to try?
Good luck with that
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I am going to look into tapping off the factory "rca" input to see what voltage and how the signal is sent to the amps.
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The signal from the head unit is speaker level, albeit low power. When I put amps and speakers in my 99 I went right into speaker level inputs on the amps(which happened to be RCA, PPI go figure). Line level converters are probably your best bet.
Actually I read a peak of just over 6 volts on the audio signal going into the amp. Lets face it line level converters suck. My point of writing this is for people who do not need to be blasted out of their cars, they simply want their factory stereo to look factory but sound good. I didn't get a chance to let anyone listen to my car at the St. Louis G2G but it is pretty impressive for what it started out as. Most of the people at the G2G weren't worried about how the factory sounded only the exhaust. If you are interested in upgrading the door speakers like I said Originally, replace it all! But if you don't then this one option of doing an upgrade
The biggest problem that I encountered with a factory HU and aftermarket amps was that there is no delayed turn on for the amps. So occasionally you would get a turn-on/off thump. The sounds was fine, but you end up slipping the HU pretty quick. To compensate I had the gains on the amps turned up pretty high and just couldn't use all of the volume control on the deck(1/2 way was about it).
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