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So now that i've got 40,000 on the Bullitt i think its time to get into some engine mods. I really dont want to fork over so much for a supercharger when cams are 1/5 the price. I've got a friend that will install everything for free. So im asking you opinion on cams. The car is my daily driver but i am a college student but i commute (40 minute drive 3 times a week). So i really dont want to kill my gas mileage but it already sucks so im sure it will even out after the cams because of the exhaust and intake. So here is what i was thinking:

Comp Cams Extreme Energy Stage III Cams: $549.95 Option 2:(VT N/A cams)
Comp Cams Beehive Valve Springs: $184.95
C&L 80mm mass air kit with trueflow inlet pipe: $339.95
Magnaflow Magnapack catback exhaust: $469.00
Headers ( i've been looking on ebay for a good deal then i will find a midpipe afterwords)
FRPP 373 gears: 189.99
Tune: ??? ( any guessers)

Im reading another thread on here where somebody wanted some cams also. If your getting the stage II cams why not just get the stage III ones? The idle is more aggresive correct? I do not want to buy new heads, that will put me back alot. If i used the VT stage II cams could i just buy new vavle springs and upgrade the intake and exhaust along with a tune and everything be ok? I've had a thread on this before but i've been stackin paper so in the next 30 days i could have these set up
 

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Anything above a stage 1 u will need to replace the springs. But Stage 3 will kill u on gase cuz its more of a top end came. I would go wit a stage 2 or 1. Just make sure after u have it done u get the car tuned to get the most out of it.

But I tell u now u will get bored really quick wit the power they make and then u will b looking for more.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OGBATMAN said:
Anything above a stage 1 u will need to replace the springs. But Stage 3 will kill u on gase cuz its more of a top end came. I would go wit a stage 2 or 1. Just make sure after u have it done u get the car tuned to get the most out of it.

But I tell u now u will get bored really quick wit the power they make and then u will b looking for more.
How much do you think a tune would cost? Do i need it dynotuned or done by a professional or do i just need a handheld tuner?
 

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Cuderbeast said:
How much do you think a tune would cost? Do i need it dynotuned or done by a professional or do i just need a handheld tuner?
"Can" aka Handheld tuneers r garbage. Dyno tunes r the best cuz they can see what your Air fuel ratio is and get you the most bang for your buck.

Me I have a friend who does a street tune which is alittle better cuz its tuned while on the streets not on rollers. But to find a person who tunes like that is far and end between. If u can find a good dyno tuner have him look at it.:wink:
 

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Some might disagree...but why not go all out when you get in there to do the cams? Comp Camps Xe274bh would be awsome to have, crazy top end and will surely kill your gas mileage. You'll need new valve springs, custom tune, and 3.73+ gears to go along with this cam. Not sure this is a good daily driver cam tho. It'll do great on the highway with all that top end for sure!
 

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Cuderbeast said:
Im reading another thread on here where somebody wanted some cams also. If your getting the stage II cams why not just get the stage III ones? The idle is more aggresive correct? I do not want to buy new heads, that will put me back alot. If i used the VT stage II cams could i just buy new vavle springs and upgrade the intake and exhaust along with a tune and everything be ok? I've had a thread on this before but i've been stackin paper so in the next 30 days i could have these set up
The problem you run into with going with a more agressive cam is (even with all of the needed mods) you wear the engine out quicker. The sicker the cam, the quicker you're going to tear it up. Cam intensity is inversely related to engine longevity...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the input. How much would a dyno tune be? I know at the closest place near me it costs $75 for three dyno runs. When i install everything should i tow it to the dyno before i start it or what? ( just making sure ) so the vt stage II cams seem to be the consensus for me..... ? I DO NOT want to blow my engine or have any problems
 

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Here I go again, if you want cams call the cam maker. Give them all the info you can about how you drive, weight of the car, any mods now or in the future, tire size, gear ratio, etc. They will know what cams you need for your application. I will say this however, I would never do cams without doing complete head work, the stock heads will only allow so much air in and out, trick cams or stock. If you are going to spend the money do it right. From you post you are spending around $1,700.00 plus a dyno tune witch will be another few hundred. You are not that far away from a Vortech, it will make you much happier. Do as you like, the above statement is how I feel I would do it. But remember cams are just cams, and for them to operate at maximum other work needs to be done to the engine. Kinda like tying your shoe laces and not pulling the knot tight.
 

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Cams

Best cams for the street are comp 262AH if your NA and the 270AH if you have a blower on the car.They did a big shootout with cams in one of the mustang mags and these two cams came out on top.Keep in mind you should port the heads to take full advantage of the cams and upgrade the valve springs. GREG
 

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Discussion Starter #10
rblack4405 said:
Here I go again, if you want cams call the cam maker. Give them all the info you can about how you drive, weight of the car, any mods now or in the future, tire size, gear ratio, etc. They will know what cams you need for your application. I will say this however, I would never do cams without doing complete head work, the stock heads will only allow so much air in and out, trick cams or stock. If you are going to spend the money do it right. From you post you are spending around $1,700.00 plus a dyno tune witch will be another few hundred. You are not that far away from a Vortech, it will make you much happier. Do as you like, the above statement is how I feel I would do it. But remember cams are just cams, and for them to operate at maximum other work needs to be done to the engine. Kinda like tying your shoe laces and not pulling the knot tight.
Thanks man for the honest info but a vortech is 3900 and i dont have that now and dont want to keep doin that, POWER is not even my main concern.... i want muscle, the sound of cams are what im really looking for. I can add more later but to me the difference between 1700 and 3900 is BIG in terms of one item. I feel like im getting more buying 10 things and spending 1700 instead of buying 1 item for 3900.
 

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You cant go wrong with the 262AH comps and ported heads.Thats what i would have done had i not put a blower on the car.Head work and cams and a forged bottom end are on my things to do list when i have the cash to do so. GREG
 
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