[agray56]

I seem to have a hum in the rear end that has been very consistent since this spring, my mechanic thinks it is just wear on the gears, so since I have been contemplating going to 3:73's, I'm going to go ahead with them and hope it will get rid of the hum.

- I assume I will also need the Ring & Pinion install kit to go along with the FRPP gear set?
- What about a traction lock rebuild kit? Is it necessary?

Also, I am going to order the H&R Super Sports and Bilstiens....will I require the C/C plates with this combo? Also, what are the thoughts on Steeda X2 balljoints? Are they necessary, and if not what extra will they give me.

My Bullitt is used mainly for autoslalom and solosprints, not a daily driver. I already have full length SF connectors, panhard bar, K-frame brace and poly bushings.

Thanks for any feedback!

Alan

 

[Bullitt 736]

I seem to have a hum in the rear end that has been very consistent since this spring, my mechanic thinks it is just wear on the gears, so since I have been contemplating going to 3:73's, I'm going to go ahead with them and hope it will get rid of the hum.

- I assume I will also need the Ring & Pinion install kit to go along with the FRPP gear set?
- What about a traction lock rebuild kit? Is it necessary?

Also, I am going to order the H&R Super Sports and Bilstiens....will I require the C/C plates with this combo? Also, what are the thoughts on Steeda X2 balljoints? Are they necessary, and if not what extra will they give me.

My Bullitt is used mainly for autoslalom and solosprints, not a daily driver. I already have full length SF connectors, panhard bar, K-frame brace and poly bushings.

Thanks for any feedback!

Alan

How many miles on your car. You may want to het the entire bearing kit with axle bearings as well ($100).

Maybe, maybe not on the CC plates with the Supersports. It will allow for better aligment specs for track use if you do get them.

Can't say for sure on the X2 ball joints but I don't think they're required. Mine is fine without them. No track use though.

 

[Graves]

If you lower the car any further than stock, I would get the CC plates. Those H&R's lower the car a lot. I had the Race springs before I switched my setup. I have Maximum Motorsport CC plates. I'd go ahead and get them if I were you. Better to be safe than sorry.

I have no experience on the Steeda parts. Curious about them also.

 

[agray56]

My car has 65,000KM, and I will plan on getting the full bearing kit to go with the gears. Someone on another forum suggested a new differential cover also, says it will allow for easier maintenance in the future...any thoughts?

 

[DiZzyBonne]

I recommend you get the full bearing kit. Think of it as a small investment to protect your asset. Is $100 worth making sure nothing goes wrong during the install? Also, you don't need a traction lock rebuild kit.

As for your suspension question, yes, you do need C/C plates, BUT you can get away without them for a while. What you definitely DO need after the install though is an alignment.

On to your Steeda X2 ball joints, I don't know.

 

[agray56]

This deal is on E-bay, has anyone taken advantage of it...it looks like a super deal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...20303031916&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123

 

[Bullitt 736]

^^^^ That's a steal. Frankenstang has the Vogtland springs. The stance looks nice.

 

[Bullitt 736]

If you think you may be ready to replace ball joints take a look at the 03/04 Cobra front A arms. Low friction ball joints, stiffer bushings, and better turning radius. Late Model Restoration has them for $160 plus shipping. Easy to replace while the struts and springs are out.

 

[luke partridge]

if you're autocrossing the car you may as well go straight to the super race springs. the 4.6 lump up front is heavy enough to make the car roll and dive a hell of a lot with just basic lowering springs as they don't have much difference in spring rates compared to the stock bullitt rates. the super race springs will control roll and dive much better. i've tried both, and the ride isn't any difference by my butt-meter, but the handling is. you should be using camber plates either way because you can dial in a lot more negative camber and positive caster. most guys in mustangs try run as much negative camber as possible, but numbers tend to be around:

-3+º camber
4.5º caster
1/8 - 3/16 toe out

also, the steeda ball joints will get your front roll center back to a stock or close to position. sometimes when you lower a car too much, the roll center goes beneath the surface of the ground, which make the car harder to turn under load than if you'd done nothing. i've done everything above other than the ball joints, but that's next on my list because of the roll center.

also, best bang for the buck in the autocross (or autoslalom, i'm assuming it's the same thing) is a torsen T2R. it'll help with both understeer and putting the power down out of corners. but the main thing it's amazing at is rotating the car mid-corner. if you plan on replacing the ring and pinion, add the T2R. it's a must have.

 

[agray56]

Well, I bit the "Bullitt" and ordered some parts. I decided to go with the MM Starter Box which includes their "Street Performance Springs" based on the H&R Race springs and HD Bilsteins. It also includes all the other parts necessary such as CC Plates, etc.

Also ordered the FRPP 3:73 gear set and the full bearing kit.

Would have loved to order the Torsen, but not this time.

Can't wait until next autocross season now.....:smile:

Edit

After talking with Chris Phelps I changed the order. Now going with H&R Super Race/MM Sport Valved Bilsteins and a Torque Arm along with CC Plates, etc. I hope it's all he suggested it would be....!