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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Buds....

Been a while since I posted my next cheapo mod! Well....here it is!

What I did was find some solid angle-iron and devise a way to use it to make seat supports (for those areas of the floor that are crack prone) and as well as a stability brace for the stock subframes. At this time I also decided to weld the subframes to the body in order to make the chassis stiffer.

To make a long story short, this little concoction of mine worked far better than I could have ever imagined!!!! The angle iron lined up perfectly with the subframe and with some simple drilling I was able to have it mount over the existing seat bolts and thus put a nut on that bolt as well. As I have said in the past, I do all of my work myself and I welded everything in this morning. It took me only about a 1/2 hour to fabricate the braces from the angle iron and then another hour to weld everything in.

Follow along with the pics as I explain what was done......

The first step was to measure everything up. I used a crude piece of cardboard box-corner and cut it out to the exact 90 degree shape of the angle iron. I then pressed it up to the bolt heads and pushed on the cardboard to have the bolt head make an impression on the cardboard. Then I was able to take this template and put it on the angle iron. I drilled the holes, checked everything for fit and I was ready to install.

The install pictures are as follows:

this first picture is one of a few angle shots that I took of the subframe and seat-cross brace.



This is a more prominent shot of it where you can see the sub running the length of the car and the brace attached on top of it via the welds and bolts.



Another angle shot from the front:


Lower off-angle shot:



This is the area that I do recommend you weld on the rear sub (both sides of it!):



This is a shot of the front of the subframe and the recommended area for welding as well:


Still don't believe this mod is worth it?
Well....take a look at this picture. Sometimes things need to be seen in order to be appreciated!!!! As you can see, the car is jacked up under the front control arm. Before I did this mod, I had to put a large block under the jack in order for it to even budge the rear tire off of the concrete as well. With this mod, I was shocked that I didn't have to go up nearly as high at all to get the same result and the rear tire came off of the ground about 2 inches!!!!! Nice and easy for those quicky tire rotations!

This mod made the car significantly more rigid as I noticed with my initial driving impressions.

As an added bonus, the bolts under the seats may prevent someone from stealing your seats as well. They would need to have a rachet and be able to get under your car as well as from the interior. Even if you don't do this mod, putting a nut on the bottom of that seat bolt with some loc-tite is an extra measure of security. Hey, any way you can slow them down is a bonus!

Enjoy and let me know what you think!!!
_________________
DHG Bullitt # 2181
Steeda Tri-AX, Aluminum D-shaft



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-09-28 14:14 ]</font>
 

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Great job. The more rigidity, the better. When I first got under the car, I was surprised by the length of the sub-frame connectors. Definitely longer than a Fox-body set. I was also surprised at how clean the underside of a car can be! :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow....figured I'd get a few more responses off of this one but I guess not. I figure that I won't post my next mod then.....

Thx for the reply Rancor...I appreciate it!

I gather though that with the welding involved that most people would shy away from this type of thing. I think it is one of those "ohhh.....I'm afraid that I will devalue my car if I do this....!) Well, you won't. Sorry. Besides, I saved myself a few $$ from having to buy another set of subs and braces.

In any case, the chassis is stiffer and since I don't intend on joining "the next best thing" bandwagon anytime soon and statistics will show many of us, unfortunately will. I might as well enjoy what I have for a longer period of time!!!!

Have fun out there!

Paul G.

_________________
DHG Bullitt # 2181
Steeda Tri-AX, Aluminum D-shaft

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PBGas on 2001-09-30 17:16 ]</font>
 

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Well I for one appreciate your knowledge and skill. I used your guide for the Driveshaft install this past weekend, made it very easy. As far as the brace, I would be more inclined to buy the premade ones as I do not weld. Keep up the work, I'm not afraid to make changes to my Bullitt to make it better.
 

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The pictures are broken and I can't view them. Can you email them to me when you get the time. Working in Army Aviation, I could get something like this done.

 

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thx for the good chasis stiffen mod!! I plan on doing this soon. I probably will be e-mailing you for some tips. Thanx again.

WES
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No probs! Anytime you need info...just let me know.

Last night, my ISP had a bit of a cough, so that is why they appeared broken...sorry bout that Buds.....

They should be up and working now...

Paul G.
 

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Nice mod looks good and inexpensive. Do not be shy about posting any other good ideas.

jjrocks
Blk Bullitt #2754
Jim

P.S. where in ontario are you?
 

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What size on angle iron did you use? 1inch? Sorry for the late reply, I'm new here :smile: It is very interesting, and looks well worthwile to do.. I just don't have a welder, and after buying 3002, I may not have the money for one for a while :sad:..
Please post your next low cost mod..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
YUp....it is 1 inch angle iron.

Thx for the replies friends!

Paul G.
 

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Paul, where did you learn how to wield like that? Those wields are perfect!

John
 

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Did you have to drop the subs first in order to get the angle iron in there? Also.. did you just weld the subs in place where they are to where-ever they meet the undercarriage or someplace specific?

My father in law builds experimental aircraft (kit planes) from tube steel so I have my welding person locked in. :smile:
 

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Paul,

Keep posting your mods! Most of us probably don't have a welder or access to one or don't know how to weld but the idea is great. Even if you paid someone to do the welding, it would be cheaper than buying new subs and still paying someone to do the work. I wasn't excited to see the subs just bolted in so welding them in is the right thing to do.

Hank, DHG No. 2634
 

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Discussion Starter #14
John......My father grew up as a mechanic and welding on the side was a hobby for him. He then became an operating engineer for mobile cranes and started using his welder even more. He taught me at a very young age and I do it now as a hobby once in a while. Thx for the compliment!

BlakWing.....I had actually marked and ground off the paint and tacked on the angle iron to the sub to help locate it. The angle iron fit right up into that area with the subs still attached...which saved a lot of time. I then marked the subs and unibody underneath at the strongest areas, removed the subs and used a small die-grinder to clean the paint off on all of the areas that were to be welded. I then bolted the subs back up and welded them.

If you don't have access to a welder, just go to a reputable muffler shop. Chance are they will also do an excellent job. Make sure you disconnect or isolate the battery before the welding starts!

Paul G.
 

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nice job Paul!
(looks more like 3/8" x 1" x 1 1/2"-LOL)
 
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