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Discussion Starter #1
Being in Mass, I'll be putting DHG 2912 away in another 6 weeks or so, but I want to start thinking of some mods for the spring. The car is actually having a new stereo installed today (DNR876S | Navigation and Multimedia | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD USA) and I'm planning on new tires in the spring (most likely Continental Extreme Contact 255/45/18).

Not looking at any majors mods, just small change stuff for a seat of the pants feel:

1. Aluminum Drive Shaft (2005-2010 MUSTANG GT ONE-PIECE DRIVESHAFT)
2. Steeda Underdrive pulleys (Steeda Mustang Underdrive Pulleys (05-10 GT), 701 0005 A)
3. Steeda charge motion plates (Steeda Billet Mustang Charge Motion Control Plates (05-08), 555 3125 )
4. FRP rear lower control arms (2005-2014 MUSTANG REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM UPGRADE KIT)
5. Steeda Mustang Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace (Steeda Mustang Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace (05-14), 555 5551)

I know that the charge plates require a tune. Does anyone know if that comes with them as part of the purchase? Should I consider a custom tune for only the 2 engine mods I'm thinking of? Most likely I won't be doing any other engine mods other than what I listed above.

Any thoughts on what I'm planning? I'm trying to keep the stock look as much as possible but would like a little more power and a bit better handling.

Thanks
 

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sounds like a great start!!!!
 

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I'm also thinking about the same driveshaft and tires. The handling parts sound good as well. I'd expect to feel some difference - as I've done similar mods on other vehicles. Keep us posted on what you end up going with and how you like the results! I'm actually looking at similar NAV/stereo units and that Kenwood unit looks nice - please share your thoughts on that as well!
 

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Ok, the mod bug has bitten you. Not sure of what other mods your Bullitt has, and most important what is your goal in improving the Bullitt in what area- daily driver, fun weekend, canyon carver, auto cross or road course? Have a long term plan on mods!
You want to change the "seat of pants feel"? I am thinking your Bullitt is a fun weekend driver.

Yes, changing to tires in 255/45/18 is the first step. Wider contact patch, the size recommended by tire manufacturers for our Bullitt 8.5" rims. More pavement contact, good, better braking . The Ford Factory installed size was for 8" rims that bean counters had put on the Bullitt. If you still are running OEM tires, they aged out years ago. Tires age out at 6-8 year. And the 255/45/18 will keep the speedometer just a touch faster than actual speed, saving you in speed trap. Yeah to the 255/45/18 upgrade.

Yes to1 piece aluminum drive shaft. YES. Eliminates the Clunk. Reduces weight in the drivetrain and adds to acceleration. Look at Shaftmasters or Driveshaft Shop. Less $ than Ford. I run Shaftmasters. Just have a great mechanic get the pinion angle correct. And see below about RLCA and brackets installed at the same time. But a safety loop for track.

Yes to Steeda underdrive pulley. YES. Gives a few more HP. My Bullitt runs in hot FL, and there is no reduction with the A/C, with legal tinted windows. Is totally compatible with the factory tune.

NO to Steeda charge motion delete plates. NO! You will have to run tunes forever. You will only gain a few HP more. YOU WILL LOSE THE FACTORY TUNE THAT ENABLES YOU RUN A MIX OF OCTANES. The 08/09 Bullitt is unique with it's octane (knock) sensor. Going to tunes dependent only is when you have finally choosen a final path for Bullitt. And that will involve larger CAI, throttle body, manifold, cams swap, headers, exhaust, supercharged, to push the max out of the 4.6 Bullitt motor. Please stay on the OEM tune till then.

An alernative is the Steeda throttle body spacer. No tune, adds a few horse and is nice bling piece behind the throttle body. I run this.

YES to FRP Rear LCA or Steeda. YES for straight line accleration off of stop lights. Stops the hop. But HAS to be installed with the RLCA brackets to truly Stop The Hop. The Ford brackets are bolt in while the Steeda are welded on. Your OEM suspension would be good with the middle setting on the FRP brackets. With my minimally lowered lowered from Bullitt spec (1/4 inch), the middle setting is correct.
This plants the rear suspension for acceleration.
Planting the rear to stop the hop, but only with the FRP brackets installed, as they change the angle of the LCA to plant the rear for acceleration , AND THE PINION ANGLE OF THE 1 PIECE DRIVESHAFT.

NO to Steeda frame rail and torque box brace. NO for a fun weekend or daily driver. This is mod for serious road course or auto cross, doing lots of turns. Look instead at the Steeda jacking rails. Adds side structural support and so easy to to use 1 jack for 1 side tire and brake service, avoiding damage to pinch welds. Just block the other side tires when jacking.

A final mod suggestion is the shifter mod. The OEM is crap. I use the MGW, set at 3 turns. Tight and crisp. No more 2/3 miss. Others will suggest the Barton or Steeda. All good. Use the $ saved from above for the shifter mod.

My 08 BLLTT is modded as a smooth long hauler, road course driver. But be aware the unintended consequences of vehicle modification.

I hope this in your choices while your Bullitt winter slumbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you sir! This will be a weekend warrior only. This is what I was hoping to get for feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is it possible to maintain the stock ride height with the rear control arm relocation brackets?
 

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Yes.
The springs control the ride height.
The rear LCA's and relocation brackets direct acceletion force at a better angle to stop the hop. Are not involved in ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
An additional question...

What are folks thoughts on safety hoops for the one piece drive shaft if its a non-racing application. Car will be for the streets only. Is it needed (recommended)?

Thanks
 

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i am ASSuMEing that you are talking about driveshaft safety loops when you ask about safety hoops.

this is required if you drag race with slicks. it's actually only required in the front i actually have one in the front and one in the rear on my supercharged bullitt.
if you do a lot of high rpm launches with sticky street tires, tread rating of 200 or less, it wouldn't be a bad idea to install one.
if you do burnouts with regular street tires it isn't needed.
it wouldn't be a bad idea to install one in the rear of the driveshaft. if the rear U joint breaks, not to likely on a street car, a flying driveshaft can easily rip open the plastic gas tank and the potential for a fire would be likely.
 

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I respect mrt2you that driveshaft safety loops are not needed for street cars driven normally, not pushed with HP or tire traction mods. But the law of unintended consequences of vehicle modification will happen. Safety is a primary concern with any mod.
With the 1 piece driveshaft, proper installation is key, getting the rear pinion angle correct. My mechanic got the pinion angle correct without having to go to an adjustable upper 3rd link.
Then preventive maintenance inspections, looking for potential failure of a U-joint. After over 60k miles, mechanic detected potential failure of the rear U-joint, so we replaced both. Remember, I drive BLLTT HARD on road courses.
Had installed the Steeda safety 1 loop with the 1 piece driveshaft, before I got addicted to road course. Safety was my thinking. Control the law of unintended consequences of vehicle modification, <$200.
And the 1 piece driveshaft is a great mod. No more clunk with smoother shifts.
 

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i agree a DS loop is a good thing to have for racing.
as i posted i have one in the front AND one in the rear on my car. the rear brace is supposed to help add rigidity to the rear body also. i installed it to protect the gas tank if the rear should break loose.
on my car i make 650 rwhp on pump gas on a street tune. on race 110 no lead and race tune i am at 800+ rwhp and can run 9's in the 1/4 mile at 140 mph+.
a 1 piece DS is a nice addition. i went the high $$$ route and have a carbon fiber DS. this really smoothed out the drive line harmonics.

on a well maintained street car they aren't really needed, especially if you use high miles rated street tires. now if you run sticky street tires, tread wear rating of 200 or less, and do regular burnouts with them. you might start thinking about start thinking about one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info on the safety loops. As its just a weekend warrior (no track) I'll be skipping the loop.

I purchased the FRP drive shaft, rear lower control arms, and relocation brackets. Now I just need to wait another 6 weeks to get the Bullitt out of storage! That's gonna suck.
 

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Here's a thought - the Blowfish Racing shifter bracket allows you to mount your shifter to the transmission, instead of partially onto the chassis floor, and makes shift action a hundred times better. Also, due to its construction, it qualifies as an NHRA-certified drive shaft loop - at no extra cost.
 

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Consider the Michelin PS4 tires. They totally transformed the handling of my Bullitt. They are considered summer tires but I have driven them in the rain and at 30 degree F and have had no problems. I you still haven't done so, when you replace your tires, throw away the old band type TPMS sensors and go with the valve stem mounted ones. I did mine at Costco and it was easy inexpensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Getting the Bullitt out of storage this Friday and the car is going into the shop the following Monday to have the following installed:

1. FRP One piece aluminum driveshaft
2. FRP Rear lower control arm relocation brackets
3. FRP Rear lower control arms

From the look of the FRP relocation brackets, there are only 2 places to re-mount the control arms. Has anyone used the FRP brackets before, and which of the 2 holes did you use?

Thanks
 

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Getting the Bullitt out of storage this Friday and the car is going into the shop the following Monday to have the following installed:

1. FRP One piece aluminum driveshaft
2. FRP Rear lower control arm relocation brackets
3. FRP Rear lower control arms

From the look of the FRP relocation brackets, there are only 2 places to re-mount the control arms. Has anyone used the FRP brackets before, and which of the 2 holes did you use?

Thanks
The FRP relocation brackets are what I have on my car. I used the upper holes to compensate for the 1" drop I have and keep the geometry approximately the same as stock. If you want more weight transfer then you can put them in the lower holes. I've contemplated doing that for the drag strip, but have never taken the time to actually do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the reply Steve. Mine is still stock height. I’m guessing that doesn’t matter and that I should still go with the upper setting. Yes? No?
 

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Thanks for the reply Steve. Mine is still stock height. I’m guessing that doesn’t matter and that I should still go with the upper setting. Yes? No?
I'd stay in the upper holes if you're still at stock height. It should improve your traction off the line slightly because of the change in instant center. I don't know how much of a physics person you are, but there are numerous videos out there on how the instant center changes the suspension reaction (and weight transfer) depending on where it's set. One benefit of planting the tires better is that it tends to wheel hop less. Between the stiffer lower control arms and the slight change of geometry, you shouldn't have any issues with wheel hop.
 
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