Great basic mods for having more fun with accleration, reducing rear wheel hop.
The Ford FRP rear LCA and relocation brackets are designed for the GT stock ride height. The S197 Bullitt springs gives the Bullitt a 6mm drop from the stock GT. With the FRP 1 piece driveshaft install, the key is the pinion angle front and rear.
My Bullitt has the GT500KR springs which drop another .25" lower than Bullitt spec. My mechanic found that the middle setting on the FRP relocation brackets gave the best pinion angle with the 1 piece driveshaft, with a fixed upper 3rd control link. Have the mechanic dial the pinion angle in.
it depends on what you are looking for on what you need.
those lower control arms are just GT500 parts with different part #'s. the re location brackets use out dated designs. and the spherical bearing control arms will drive you crazy if you plan on driving the car a lot.
now if you want to just improve traction on a lowered street car at a decent price. i would suggest a pair of whiteline adjustable lower control arms. Rear Control arm - lower arm or the non adjustable ones Rear Control arm - lower arm.
they have regular rubber bushings so noise and vibration transfer is much lower than other arms with urethane bushings or solid spherical ones. you can use the relocation bracket you have with these arms. i would also suggest getting a adjustable upper arm also....https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kta204-control-arm
these will help REDUCE wheel hop from the stock parts.
the down side of these parts is they use rubber bushings and will still flex a fair amount and you still will get some wheel hop.
also the whiteline parts are better than stock parts but there are much better made parts on the market.
now if you really want to upgrade your suspension and almost eliminate wheel hop.
buy some BMR suspension parts with POLY bushings. also replace the stock rubber bushing in the rear end housing with a urethane one. the link is for a couple of different packages that could help you.
Leader in High Performance Suspension and Chassis Products For American Muscle Vehicles.
on my car that runs low 10's. with mid to high 1.3's 60' times.
i have a complete ADJUSTABLE rear BMR suspension.both the upper arm and the lower arms are adjustable. the lower arms have solid spherical bushings on the rear end part of the arms. i also replaced my rear end bushing with a poly one. i also added a drag race specific rear sway bar with $$$ rear shocks and springs.
i install the springs, shocks and rear sway bar before i go to the strip and remove them when i am done.
i think if i replaced ALL of the poly bushings with spherical bushings. also raise my starting line RPM to 5K i might hit 1.2's for 60' times.
it all boils down to WHAT DO YOU REALLY WANT your car to do. and how you plan on using your car. there are many ways to skin a car. you have to decide what you really want and how you hope to accomplish it.
whiteline parts will have some reasonably priced parts for a DAILY DRIVER. they work pretty good for that. once you start abusing them the failure rate goes up.
BMR makes basically the industry standard hard core suspension parts. they are NOT CHEAP. but they work well without to many failures. i know of 25+ GT500 owners who abuse them on a regular basis, probably 3000+ runs over the years, at the drag strip without any failures.
i am sure their are several other suspension part manufacturers. i am only familiar with the 2 i have listed.
Sorry to hear they didn't fit. My Steeda billet control arms fit without incident, so that never hit my radar. Since you're not lowered, it's not a huge deal to not have the lower relocation bracket. There are several others that make similar kits, like BMR, Maximum Motorsports and Steeda. If you don't get a good answer here then you might check with some of the retailers. I'm sure you're not the first one to find out the hard way.
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