[BULLITT #1042 (Ray Ackerman)]

I'm considering a Super Charger but I've heard 4.10's is not a good gear I sould go with something like 3.56???
Is this ture? Anyone?

Thanks....

 

[Barnaby]

What do you want out of your car? Drag racer, road racer, cruiser?

If you are building a strip type car 4.10s are the way to go. With sticky tires you'll be much better off at the track. They will put you at about redline at the end of the track.

For road racing I would put in 3.73s(I had these in my Vortech'd Saleen). They keep the revs down a little for longer running.

I think for a cruiser I would probably go 4.10s if highway miles are minimal. If your car sees highway miles regularly 3.73s might be a better choice.

Hope that helps.

 

[01GTB]

If you are thinking supercharger pretty soon stick with the 3.27's for a while. Then you can get a good idea of how much gear you might like. My guess is a 4.10 in a supercharger car is gonna make first gear realllly short.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 01GTB on 2001-11-13 22:16 ]</font>

 

[Barnaby]

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-11-13 22:11, 01GTB wrote:
My guess is a 4.10 in a supercharger car is gonna make first gear realllly short.
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REALLY short. I find myself starting in second more than not.

 

[JB VOBRA]

heres a cool link Ray, check it out:

http://www.corral.net/tech/gearcalc.html

I did a little figuring, and here's what you get at redline(6000) in 4th on the stock tires:

4.10 gear
111.8mph

3.73 gear
122.8mph

I'd say the 111.8 trap max on the 4.10s is going to be questionable if you're making 375rwhp. I've seen plenty of blown 2Vs trapping 112+ on pretty simple setups. The 3.73s might be a necessity unless you want a shift to 5th on the drag strip :grin:

 

[Barnaby]

I forgot, I live at a mile high. Not many cars trap at 112, or 110 for that matter. Even then, 375rwhp is a strong running car. 320-330 would be more easily and safely acheivable.

 

[BULLITT #1042 (Ray Ackerman)]

Thanks for the inf. everone. I'm not concerned with street driving just drag racing.

I think i may work on weight transfer with the stock setup first.

Does anyone have any tips on weight transfer on our Bullitts?

Thanks.....

 

[Barnaby]

I would approach it like any other Mustang; Drag struts/shocks, softer springs F&R, remove front sway bar, slicks, better sub frame connectors, remove weight. All of those things combined would probably equate to .5-.8 seconds off your time. Once again the slicks being the biggest advantage here. You should be able to get into the high 12s with some aggressive driving and good weather.

 

[BULLITT #1042 (Ray Ackerman)]

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On 2001-11-14 18:39, Barnaby wrote:
I would approach it like any other Mustang; Drag struts/shocks, softer springs F&R, remove front sway bar, slicks, better sub frame connectors, remove weight. All of those things combined would probably equate to .5-.8 seconds off your time. Once again the slicks being the biggest advantage here. You should be able to get into the high 12s with some aggressive driving and good weather.

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Thanks Tim! I would like to keep the stock look of the Bullitt, do you have any recommendations for removing weight along with keeping the stock look?

 

[Barnaby]

There's not much you can do without altering the look/function of your car. Easy stuff like removing the spare/jack/passenger seat is easy. Lightweight hood and removal of AC and PS are always worth a little. Tubular K-member/a-arms and coil overs won't look any different, but your car and wallet will be lighter. You can figure about 100lbs removed is worth about a 1/10th at the strip. I know that's not much help, but weight reduction is usually made up of sacrifices in amenities.

 

[BULLITT #1042 (Ray Ackerman)]

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-11-14 20:25, Barnaby wrote:
There's not much you can do without altering the look/function of your car. Easy stuff like removing the spare/jack/passenger seat is easy. Lightweight hood and removal of AC and PS are always worth a little. Tubular K-member/a-arms and coil overs won't look any different, but your car and wallet will be lighter. You can figure about 100lbs removed is worth about a 1/10th at the strip. I know that's not much help, but weight reduction is usually made up of sacrifices in amenities.

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I was looking at the car tonight,I would really have to remove alot of parts to lighten it up.I really would like to keep the stock look. I know i can't have my cake and eat it to... LOL