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Ok so When we went to the Texas shootout last year we left Gail's car in Texas for about 2 months. When we went to pick it up the battery was dead. No big deal to me Texas heat car sitting for about 2 months. I charged the battery and off to Virginia we went. When we got home we didn't have any problems with the car because it was driven everyday to work and back. Ok so I am making a short story long. Any time we let the car sit for more than 2 days it is dead when we get in. I replaced the battery thinking it just had a bad cell. Well the problem is still there I guess. Tonight I went out and started pulling fuses to find the drain. Turns out that with the radio fuse in, the car is drawing 1.89amps after I pull that fuse it drops to .17amps. So any ideas where I should go from there? I was thinking I would unplug the back deck and see if that fixes it. If it does I have a spare one of those. If not there any ideas where else to check or should I just get ready to replace the head unit:confused:

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.
 

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I have had that problem since the car was new. If I know that the car is going to be sitting longer than a few days then I just put it on the trickle charger. I never identified what was causing the problem.
 

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I just got a new battery before Nats last year, Before the meet last month I went out to start the Bullitt, because it had been sitting for a while, and the battery was dead. I thought maybe a defective battery but I charged it and no problem so far. Thanks for identifying the problem. I'll have to get a trickle charger.
 

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If Jeff figures out exactly what in the radio system is causing it I will post that. The problem is not Bullitt specific however. He did a lot digging on the internet last night and there are a lot of Mustangs with the exact same problem.
 

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Scenario 1.There is an electronic switch (it's a switchable diode or diode block) somewhere on the circuit that is supposed to go open when the line voltage on the circuit drops to 12vdc or less (ie the alterrnator isn't providing the electricity). It apparently is not doing that, and the battery is draining as a result. What else is on the circuit?

Scenario 2. If the alternater diode block has failed it can/will drain the battery for the reason stated above. It could still be this block, just isn't manifesting itself if there isn't enough drain.

IMHO, I'm an electronics tech, but not a auto tech, so I maybe totally off base about this. Whose our resident Ford auto elctronics tech?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is an update. I went out this afternoon and plugged the radio fuse back in. The car was drawing .97 amps (about half what it was using the last time) I have read a couple of post about the amps getting stuck on so I opened the trunk and pulled the plug on both amps. That dropped it to a .27 draw. I plugged the amps back in and the draw stayed the same. I think the back amps were stuck on and pulling the fuse reset one of them and then unplugging them reset the other one. I am going to leave them hooked up tonight and check the draw in the morning to see what happens. If that is what is going on I have no idea how I am going to know if it stick again or not.
 

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Hey bluebullitt -- any update on your electrical problems??

My battery light came on last summer shortly before the Norwalk (OH) FFW event... First replaced the battery (had orig battery in the car at the time), then alternator. Light went out for the rest of the summer and had no problems. Car sat in hibernation all winter (~ 6 months here) and has been out of storage for almost 3 weeks. Had battery on trickle charger all winter, car started right up and ran fine until Sunday when the battery light came back on...

Curious to know if your amplifier theory was right.
 
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