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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess that's what I get for buying a car with 80k miles on it. So i've only had 0074 for a year, and now apparently i've spun a rod bearing, and I have to replace the engine. So now I have a car that has a failing engine, and due to the sudden depreciation i'm now flipped 8 grand on the car. I have no idea what the heck i'm going to do.
 

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Hate the bad luck! If I were closer I would offer to help you fix your engine! Hang in there get her fixed and continue to enjoy her if you can!
 

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Is the car stock? 80,000 miles seems to soon to have to replace the motor.
 

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8 Grand!?

Hell, isn't a complete crate-engine only like $5800-6500 or something?

I was just looking at them on the FRP website (I think that was the place).

Havin' grenaded a few engines, I certainly feel for you, though.
 

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hells bells....that ain't as bad as having only about 7k on a totally rebuilt FORGED engine sling a rod or spin a bearing!!!!!!!! (still don't know what it was)
And so 3230 sits until at least next spring for bonus/tax return $$$ to bring her back to life again......

Sorry for the bad luck....I know the pain....twice over!
Regardless, it is still cheaper to get it fixed up then to buy something new.
 

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Ebay and Craiglist is your friend. U should b able to find something out there for a good price.

I blew up my tranny 3 weeks ago and found another one rebuilt with a warrenty for $800. Matter of fact I think I know a website that sells low mileage egines for like $1k to $3k.
 

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Replace the engine for a spun bearing? That sounds a little extreme to me. At worst that's pull the engine, chuck on an engine stand, pull the pan, remove the crank and take it to a machine shop and have it turned .25mm under, and reassemble with fresh bearings...

That said, is it a difficult job to replace the rod bearings in chassis in the '01s?

I know guys in the SHO world do that all the time (known weakness with the 24 valve Yamaha Engines), as long as the crank journals aren't scored you should be good to go for the cost of a pan gasket and a set of bearings ($26 and $32 respectively at Rockauto).
 

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Lightning said:
Replace the engine for a spun bearing? That sounds a little extreme to me. At worst that's pull the engine, chuck on an engine stand, pull the pan, remove the crank and take it to a machine shop and have it turned .25mm under, and reassemble with fresh bearings...

That said, is it a difficult job to replace the rod bearings in chassis in the '01s?

I know guys in the SHO world do that all the time (known weakness with the 24 valve Yamaha Engines), as long as the crank journals aren't scored you should be good to go for the cost of a pan gasket and a set of bearings ($26 and $32 respectively at Rockauto).
Would that it were that simple - on the Modular engine, IIRC you've got to have the engine line-bored if you pull the crank out of it. So there's some machine-work to do (but not something insurmountable).

Also, if the rod-bearing is out, the rod is probably shot. I'd replace 'em with a complete balanced set of forged H-beams. And while you're in there, a set of forged pistons and a new........

Nevermind. :lol:

I was just pointing-out that, if one were to go the "Dealer rebuild" direction for ~$8000, a crate motor would be cheaper (and probably stronger).
 

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seems like low mileage to toss a rod. but you never know. if it were me, i would get a boneyard motor to slide into it while i took my time and fixed the B motor.
 

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Personally I see 4 options.

One, rebuild your existing engine and step it up a notch or two with better parts like pistons and rods.

Two, rebuild your existing engine doing the minimal work (but still no skimping anywhere, should it need to be done or recommended) such as fresh gaskets, and bearings only, and necessary machine work.

Three, buy a reman motor from a REPLICABLE vendor. DO RESEARCH!!!!!!! There are plenty of big Mustang advertisers that do complete **** work.

Four, find a junkyard GT, F Series, Crown Vic, etc motor with moderate mileage and swap out the longblock. Put your intake and stuff on it. Baring that engine is fine, you'll be back to exactly where you left off.
 

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Ezekial said:
Personally I see 4 options.

One, rebuild your existing engine and step it up a notch or two with better parts like pistons and rods.

Two, rebuild your existing engine doing the minimal work (but still no skimping anywhere, should it need to be done or recommended) such as fresh gaskets, and bearings only, and necessary machine work.

Three, buy a reman motor from a REPLICABLE vendor. DO RESEARCH!!!!!!! There are plenty of big Mustang advertisers that do complete **** work.

Four, find a junkyard GT, F Series, Crown Vic, etc motor with moderate mileage and swap out the longblock. Put your intake and stuff on it. Baring that engine is fine, you'll be back to exactly where you left off.
Ez is right on option 4. I see 4.6 romeos going for 3-400 all the time. Couple that with 100.00 worth of gaskets and your off!!!!
 

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DiZzyBonne said:
If it's broken, it's only an excuse to mod up ;). I know it sucks, but when you fix it, if you get a built motor, you WON'T regret it.

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_shortblocks.htm - Probably the best built shortblocks on the market, and they come at a GREAT price.

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_longblocks.htm - If you just wan't the complete engine, then there ya go.

Good luck!
I wouldnt buy from MMR I know a couple that got some bad engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I bought it at 80,000 but drove it a lot in a year so it has 100,640 on the odometer. And I don't even know why it happened, I revved it high but didn't red line it, and it had just got an oil change a few weeks prior.
 

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The oil change a few weeks prior could be your problem. Maybe they double-gasketed your filter and you were loosing oil for 2 weeks. Ended up with lack of lubrication at elevated rpm and spun the bearing.

It shouldn't cost that much to replace one rod and rod bearing set and have the crank turned. Check at a local mustang shop for prices and recomendations on repairs.

I've blown my motor twice (holes in 2 pistons the first time, and a hole in the passenger side head the second time) and took both mishaps as an opportunity to mod and improve. This might be a good time to go with a cobra crank (which is much stronger, but dimensionaly identical to ours) and forged rods / pistons to support a blower or nitrous down the road. Even going with all forged internals shouldn't be more than $4-$5K installed; maybe $3K if you do the work yourself.

I like the ideas about grabbing a junkyard engine and making it work for the short term. You could do yourself a favor and try and find a 99-04 GT that was in a rearend collision and buy that motor. That way most of the accessories, sensors, and wiring will be a direct bolt-on.
 

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OGBATMAN said:
I wouldnt buy from MMR I know a couple that got some bad engines.
Everybody I know that got an engine from MMR have had nothing but a great experience. You could always go with DSS Racing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm going to put a new crate engine from ford in it. At this point, it's just a matter of deciding between the regular engine and the 2001 Cobra engine (a 2000-ish dollar difference). Since the car isnt stock to begin with, what do you guys think about beefing up the engine at this point?
 
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