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Discussion Starter #1
ok. here is a basic question and hopefully someone will be able to help me! Ok this is the second time I have attempted to do my rear brakes with my buddy who has done brakes on all his cars both disc and drum. The first time we couldn't get it so I had to have it installed at the dealer. I bought new rotors so I wanted to try again. . I should be able to do this!

Heres the problem. I can get the caliper off (but if I remove the top bolt that hold the caliper to the bracket the caliper can't swing all the way back because the brake hose is on the inside of the rear shock (is this normal?) So I took the whole caliper off and inserted the pads (lined up the holes too) and it is super tight when I put it back on. I actually beat it with a rubber mallet to get it on there. So it is now on the rotor, time for the next problem. I try to close the caliper and can't push the caliper all the way over the brake pads, it just does not want to close. Out of desperation I used a screw driver and a mallet to try and close it and it went down but it is not going any further at all to install the top screw and close the caliper. I have the right size pads but its just not happening! I know this is really long, but hopefully you can understand and give me some ideas of what is going on and if I am missing a step or something? Thanks guys!!

P.S. I have read most of the threads on the rear brakes and have not encountered this and it def. seems like something is not right with my brakes or what I am doing!
 

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Did you screw the caliper piston in first? The rear calipers have an integral parking brake assembly that mechanically screws out the piston to apply the parking brake. This requires you to screw it back in to compress the caliper piston during a brake job. It will not compress with force like a typical caliper. You can probably rent or buy the tool from the local parts store. I used to be a Ford Tech, so I have the special tool set in my garage and it makes it easy.
 

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Ok, first, inspect the pads now that you have probably screwed them up. Then, tomorrow, go to the auto parts store and get the brake tool that you need.

Looks like this:



Rear piston has to turn back into the caliper. You cannot correctly do the rear brakes without it. Just attach it to an extension and your ratchet and you should be able to get it back in further so you can put it back over the rotor. Never force it.
 

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MustangMarkus said:
Ok, first, inspect the pads now that you have probably screwed them up. Then, tomorrow, go to the auto parts store and get the brake tool that you need.

Looks like this:



Rear piston has to turn back into the caliper. You cannot correctly do the rear brakes without it. Just attach it to an extension and your ratchet and you should be able to get it back in further so you can put it back over the rotor. Never force it.
I got mine from an Auto store
Lisle 28600 - Disc Brake Piston Tool

I think it was about 10 bucks
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replies guys. . I did rent the rear brake tool and turned the piston back in until it wouldn't move. . should I just keep trying to turn it in even more. . I mean it is flush with the rubber seal. .i can attempt to use even more force and try to push it in (but it was not budgin when I kept tryin to push it back it. . it doesn't make sense to me tho. . but maybe I do just need to turn it more with a wrench or something, I don't have the nifty lookin tool that you posted a picture of. I rented the one that has all those round adapters and you twist that in. . I'll be out there again after work today, so I'll keep everyone posted! thanks again!
 

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If the piston is all the way in, you may have regular GT pads. The Bullitt and Cobra have vented rotors on the rear and are much thicker than the solid discs on the rear of a GT. This requires thinner pads. Check on it again to make sure the pistons are fully retracted and then look again at your pads. I'm not sure off hand what the thickness is supposed to be, but the GT pads are different from Bullitt/Cobra pads.
 

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The first time I bought rear pads for mine, I got the wrong pads. I asked for pads for a 2001 Cobra at Discount (now Advanced) and they gave me a set of Bendix pads that were for a GT. The computer was wrong. I have checked within the last year and have noticed several other places that give the same part number for the GT and Cobra. The Cobra rotor is slightly thicker and needs a slightly more narrow pad.

Post the brand and part number of the pads you have.
 

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I have found that opening the bleeder screw on the caliper when screwing the piston back in makes it easier. But if you do that, then you have to bleed the rear brakes when done, which is a pain on those systems.
 

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+1 on wrong pads! Happens all the time. You want Cobra Pads. I ordered mine online from "axxis" (spelling?) quick deliver, right part, minimal break dust and a decent improvement over stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
hey guys! THANKS for all the HELP!! I decided to go somewhere else and just ask for the Cobra pads and sure enuff these are definitely not as thick as the first ones I got!! I should have no problem installing them. I must have had the GT pads. I will be putting them on tomorrow if all goes right so I will let everyone know how I make out with the right pads! Thanks again, I was going to give up workin on the car because that was so frustrating. . now I can go and return these parts to auto zone and never go back there again since they never have what I need and give me the wrong parts!! I'll fill everyone in tomorrow!
 

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Can somebody post part numbers and / or the thickness of GT vs Bullitt rear pads

This might save us all some problems in the near future
and help us identify the right rear pads for the Bullitt
 

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Discussion Starter #16
WOW!! what an easy job when you have the right pads!! Just wanted to let you guys know that I got the new rotors and rear brake pads installed! I am glad that is straightened out, this was the second time I got the wrong pads from AutoZone! And I even asked the guy to confirm that these were not the GT pads and he said they weren't and they were for my car!! The first time I gave up and has the stealership do them. . this time I was determined. Well now I know what they look like and all and there will be no further problems (hopefully)! I'll post pics and part numbers this weekend when I get a chance to take some pics. Thanks again for all the help!!
 

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English Bob said:
Can somebody post part numbers and / or the thickness of GT vs Bullitt rear pads

This might save us all some problems in the near future
and help us identify the right rear pads for the Bullitt
I know that the part number on the Motorcraft rear pads are BR72B
 
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