REAR WHEEL H.P. READING ON MODIFIED BULLITT
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Hi Double J,
310.8 rw/hp at 5,500 rmps and 310.6 lbs/torque at 4,500 rmps. This is with present mods. Here in Denver, experienced speed shop guys whom I trust tell me that Bulllit 4009 is only getting 6 psi from the installed 8-9 lbs kit. So, I'm going with a smaller pulley (see below, sig.) I know it is a risk, but a big gain too. I would never do it at sea level.
I'm hoping for 350 rw/hp with compariable torque nos. with the mods I have planned, and then I'm off to the track like you. At this point, I'm pretty much done, expect for maybe new mufflers and a customized chip. I thought about higher gears, but feel I will have my hands full with the 3.27s that I got, plus I plan to do straights at the track only 4 or 5 times a year. No. 4009 is pretty much a part-time daily with some ocassional, spontaneous gun and run fun at red lights (i.e. camaro killer).
I will do another dynorun and post in the dyno forum in three or four weeks. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
310.8 rw/hp at 5,500 rmps and 310.6 lbs/torque at 4,500 rmps. This is with present mods. Here in Denver, experienced speed shop guys whom I trust tell me that Bulllit 4009 is only getting 6 psi from the installed 8-9 lbs kit. So, I'm going with a smaller pulley (see below, sig.) I know it is a risk, but a big gain too. I would never do it at sea level.
I'm hoping for 350 rw/hp with compariable torque nos. with the mods I have planned, and then I'm off to the track like you. At this point, I'm pretty much done, expect for maybe new mufflers and a customized chip. I thought about higher gears, but feel I will have my hands full with the 3.27s that I got, plus I plan to do straights at the track only 4 or 5 times a year. No. 4009 is pretty much a part-time daily with some ocassional, spontaneous gun and run fun at red lights (i.e. camaro killer).
I will do another dynorun and post in the dyno forum in three or four weeks. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Yeah, I got 404 r.w.h.p. on the race setting(octane boost req.d), 390r.w.h.p. in the street/strip setting and 376r.w.h.p. in the street setting.I actually was a little disappointed, I was hoping for 415 r.w.h.p. in the race setting(Oh well thats life).
Thanks Double J, I'm hoping for 3 to 4 more psi and 340-350 rwhp (street) with my latest planned mods. Figure, I'm only getting 6 psi here in Denver with 8-9 lb kit. I'll post my dynos in a few weeks. I was a little disappointed too, like you said thats life.
well, I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume "money is an object" on this discussion. If you like your stock block and have some sort of desire not to blow it:
quit worrying about what rwhp you're making and start worrying more about the a/f ratio the car is seeing.
The difference between 350rwhp and 365rwhp isn't really signifigant if the motor doesn't hold together with the higher figure. You ideally want to see 11.9 to 1 a/f ratio in the upper rpms. You can ping a car to death and never even hear audible detonation.
Tune for safety first, then power. It's hard to copmare two different cars because some will make more than others (even with identical setups).
quit worrying about what rwhp you're making and start worrying more about the a/f ratio the car is seeing.
The difference between 350rwhp and 365rwhp isn't really signifigant if the motor doesn't hold together with the higher figure. You ideally want to see 11.9 to 1 a/f ratio in the upper rpms. You can ping a car to death and never even hear audible detonation.
Tune for safety first, then power. It's hard to copmare two different cars because some will make more than others (even with identical setups).
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE> Well, I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume "money is an object" on this discussion. If you like your stock block and have some sort of desire not to blow it:
quit worrying about what rwhp you're making and start worrying more about the a/f ratio the car is seeing.
The difference between 350rwhp and 365rwhp isn't really signifigant if the motor doesn't hold together with the higher figure. You ideally want to see 11.9 to 1 a/f ratio in the upper rpms. You can ping a car to death and never even hear audible detonation.
Tune for safety first, then power. It's hard to copmare two different cars because some will make more than others (even with identical setups). </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
_________________
Thanks for your thoughts/comments. I'll look into the a/f ratio further. I thought my Vortech Chip accounted for this, but I could be wrong. You are right "money is an object" and I don't want to blow my engine. I'm pretty rusty at performance mods; last fast car was twenty years ago. I'm learning a lot from some of you.
_________________
Mike Rudy, DHG Bullitt, No. 04009
Vortech S Trim SQ with Custom SuperChip
Ford Motorsport Ceramic Coated Headers
Bassani X Pipe & CatBack
FRPP Alum. D/S & 3.73s
Steeda Tri-Ax, AutoMeter Gauges
Interior MGW Billet
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 1NastyFordGT on 2002-09-28 17:09 ]</font>
quit worrying about what rwhp you're making and start worrying more about the a/f ratio the car is seeing.
The difference between 350rwhp and 365rwhp isn't really signifigant if the motor doesn't hold together with the higher figure. You ideally want to see 11.9 to 1 a/f ratio in the upper rpms. You can ping a car to death and never even hear audible detonation.
Tune for safety first, then power. It's hard to copmare two different cars because some will make more than others (even with identical setups). </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
_________________
Thanks for your thoughts/comments. I'll look into the a/f ratio further. I thought my Vortech Chip accounted for this, but I could be wrong. You are right "money is an object" and I don't want to blow my engine. I'm pretty rusty at performance mods; last fast car was twenty years ago. I'm learning a lot from some of you.
_________________
Mike Rudy, DHG Bullitt, No. 04009
Vortech S Trim SQ with Custom SuperChip
Ford Motorsport Ceramic Coated Headers
Bassani X Pipe & CatBack
FRPP Alum. D/S & 3.73s
Steeda Tri-Ax, AutoMeter Gauges
Interior MGW Billet
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 1NastyFordGT on 2002-09-28 17:09 ]</font>
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks for your thoughts/comments. I'll look into the a/f ratio further. I thought my Vortech Chip accounted for this, but I could be wrong. You are right "money is an object" and I don't want to blow my engine. I'm pretty rusty at performance mods; last fast car was twenty years ago. I'm learning a lot from some of you.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
check out this thread over on the corral. Stock vortech chip used in this scenario:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26291
Thanks for your thoughts/comments. I'll look into the a/f ratio further. I thought my Vortech Chip accounted for this, but I could be wrong. You are right "money is an object" and I don't want to blow my engine. I'm pretty rusty at performance mods; last fast car was twenty years ago. I'm learning a lot from some of you.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
check out this thread over on the corral. Stock vortech chip used in this scenario:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26291
Joined
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76 Posts
How are the Dyno folks measuring the Air Fuel mixture? Are they welding a bung right behind the header flange or are they sticking a device up the exhaust? I am interested to know. Mine is good as far as the chart shows but I wonder where the reading is the absolute best so our cars do not ping unnoticeably. By the way, My car mage 362 at the rear wheels. Vortech has a great product and I am working with them to chase a surge out of the low RPM range.
Joined
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826 Posts
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2002-09-25 18:32, kpartchracing wrote:
How are the Dyno folks measuring the Air Fuel mixture? Are they welding a bung right behind the header flange or are they sticking a device up the exhaust? I am interested to know. Mine is good as far as the chart shows but I wonder where the reading is the absolute best so our cars do not ping unnoticeably. By the way, My car mage 362 at the rear wheels. Vortech has a great product and I am working with them to chase a surge out of the low RPM range.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
Houston Performance insisted on measuring the A/F ratio upstream of the cats. They had to replace the stock H pipe w/ 4 cats w/ a Bassini x pipe w/ 2 cats to get room to weld bungs. I guess the cats would react with a rich mixture and show a leaner A/F ratio downstream of the cats.
I watched HP do the final tweak & tune on my car, and the rwhp went from 362 to 345 when they richened the A/F 0.2 (12.1 to 11.9 I believe).
On 2002-09-25 18:32, kpartchracing wrote:
How are the Dyno folks measuring the Air Fuel mixture? Are they welding a bung right behind the header flange or are they sticking a device up the exhaust? I am interested to know. Mine is good as far as the chart shows but I wonder where the reading is the absolute best so our cars do not ping unnoticeably. By the way, My car mage 362 at the rear wheels. Vortech has a great product and I am working with them to chase a surge out of the low RPM range.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
Houston Performance insisted on measuring the A/F ratio upstream of the cats. They had to replace the stock H pipe w/ 4 cats w/ a Bassini x pipe w/ 2 cats to get room to weld bungs. I guess the cats would react with a rich mixture and show a leaner A/F ratio downstream of the cats.
I watched HP do the final tweak & tune on my car, and the rwhp went from 362 to 345 when they richened the A/F 0.2 (12.1 to 11.9 I believe).
Joined
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959 Posts
I would also recommend and insist that you have a wideband O2 sensor on your car for dyno pulls so you can see the a/f ratios. I hope to have #66 on the dyno in a week or 2 and get the fuela ratios ironed out with the turbo.
Did some tuning on the highway and added a blow off valve on Monday. Car will take full throttle and is pulling 6 psi for now. Still blowing lots of black smoke..still way rich, which is fine for now. Better safe than sorry until I can get some readings.
Protect those pistons!
Brian
Did some tuning on the highway and added a blow off valve on Monday. Car will take full throttle and is pulling 6 psi for now. Still blowing lots of black smoke..still way rich, which is fine for now. Better safe than sorry until I can get some readings.
Protect those pistons!
Brian
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2002-01-09 15:49, mrudy wrote:
Quote: well, I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume "money is an object" on this discussion. If you like your stock block and have some sort of desire not to blow it:
quit worrying about what rwhp you're making and start worrying more about the a/f ratio the car is seeing.
The difference between 350rwhp and 365rwhp isn't really signifigant if the motor doesn't hold together with the higher figure. You ideally want to see 11.9 to 1 a/f ratio in the upper rpms. You can ping a car to death and never even hear audible detonation.
Tune for safety first, then power. It's hard to copmare two different cars because some will make more than others (even with identical setups). </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
_________________
Thanks for your thoughts/comments. I'll look into the a/f ratio further. I thought my Vortech Chip accounted for this, but I could be wrong. You are right "money is an object" and I don't want to blow my engine. I'm pretty rusty at performance mods; last fast car was twenty years ago. I'm learning a lot from some of you.
[/quote]
On 2002-01-09 15:49, mrudy wrote:
Quote: well, I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume "money is an object" on this discussion. If you like your stock block and have some sort of desire not to blow it:
quit worrying about what rwhp you're making and start worrying more about the a/f ratio the car is seeing.
The difference between 350rwhp and 365rwhp isn't really signifigant if the motor doesn't hold together with the higher figure. You ideally want to see 11.9 to 1 a/f ratio in the upper rpms. You can ping a car to death and never even hear audible detonation.
Tune for safety first, then power. It's hard to copmare two different cars because some will make more than others (even with identical setups). </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
_________________
Thanks for your thoughts/comments. I'll look into the a/f ratio further. I thought my Vortech Chip accounted for this, but I could be wrong. You are right "money is an object" and I don't want to blow my engine. I'm pretty rusty at performance mods; last fast car was twenty years ago. I'm learning a lot from some of you.
[/quote]
Joined
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674 Posts
I just got back from a custom tune to replace what Vortech gave me. When the programming guru looked at the timing tables, he couldn't believe how aggressive vortech was on their chip. When all was done, the new chip burn gave me only 14 more hp/tq, (231hp/275tq stock, 336/338 Vortech, 349/350 NEDyno) but it eliminated all the knock I was getting previously.
Bottom line, I got the reburn to keep things safer, the extra hp was a bonus I really wasn't looking for. Keep it safe and get a custom tune, 'cause no two cars are the same.
Bottom line, I got the reburn to keep things safer, the extra hp was a bonus I really wasn't looking for. Keep it safe and get a custom tune, 'cause no two cars are the same.
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