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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I am going to need your expert help. I am stock btw.

I am planing a trip to the US to get me some mods. I have saved up for the last year and have some money to spend, thanks to the low dollar and our currency is very high I am getting quite a few mods.

I am not going to supercharge in the next future.
I am soon going to have gears.

I am going to need new tires and also want 18" wheel. That is a must.

then I was thinking about longtubes. I guess BBK. ($500)

CAI- dont know wich brand. JLT or /(denscharger?) (220)

Then I was thinking about short throw shifter-tri ax. (200)

Under drive pullies? worth it?

I can not have O/R pipes due to the regulations here, does it help to have h-pipe w/cats??

Anything els? What do you tink I should get first and do you think I should skip any of those items?

thanks alot and regards from Iceland.

269 Posts
Icebullitt, you are lucky to have some cash to throw around! Let me comment on a few of your choices:

Wheels: 18" is a great choice for traction, but you will pay big for good tires. check out bfgoodrich hi performance, and also nitto 555s.

Gears: go with 4.10 or 3.90, you'll not regret this decision

Headers: BBK is about the best you can buy. the only thing is you will have to find a short h-pipe or x-pipe with cats to go with the longtubes. they are also pretty hard to install yourself especially if you dont have a lift to drop the k-member.

CAI: your best choice is JLT (not the short ram). the jlt pipe will give you a nice gain. if you want some underhood candy then check out the bbk cai for our bullitts, its chrome and compliments the engine bay very nicely

Shifter: yes definately go with the tri-ax, you'll have smoother shifts and you
wont ever miss third again. well worth the money

Pullies: dont waste your time with them, the're esentially worthless since the bullitt already has factory underdrive pullies. they wont give you much of a gain for the cash you will pay for them

If you have any extra cash after all this, you might want to consider the following options:

SLP Loudmouth II catback exhaust
H&R supersport springs
Maximum Motorsports XL Subframe connectors
Steeda clutch quadrant and firewall adjustor
Port and Polish?
New clutch/lightweight flywheel?
Misc. MM suspension parts

All this really depends on how much you have to spend and what you want to do with the bullitt. Is your car an everyday driver? Or are you building it up for the track only? If so, which track road race or drag strip? The bullitt has a lot of room for potential and there are a lot of ways you can go with this, but in my opinion supercharging is about the ultimate mod you can do!

13,300 Posts
Dragon Bullitt has a Triax for sale. $80 I think. Needs handle.

Since Sumitomo is not making 315-35-17's anymore, big 17's or 18's are going to be expensive. I bought 18x9 and 18x10 wheels with 265-35-18 and 295-35-18 tires. They are Firestones in the rear and Bridgestones in front. They are the same tire however. I am very happy with them. The rears were $200 each. Thta's the least expensive of the 295-35-18 available.

I don't have one but JLT is highly regarded.

4.10 gears

I have mixed emotions whether LT headers are worth the money and effort for a stocker. You alos have to buy a catted X or H pipe specific to your header selection. Install is not easy and is expensive if you have someone do it for you. Depending on the brand you may not be able to remove the tranny without removing a header. I would seek the opinion of people that have them and really ask a lot of questions.

See my sig for suspension mods. I have a very basic set up but have what I feel are some of the best parts available for a daily driven vehicle. I do need full length subframe connectors though.

Underdrive pulleys not worth it for our car.

Since you're getting gears, get and SCT Xcal 2, Xcal 3, or Daiblo Predator. You can use that to correct the speedo. Then go get a dyno tune.

You need to tell us what you like to do and what you expect from your car after the mods are done. This will help with the suggestions people make for you.

967 Posts
17 and 18 inch wheels both look great. if you plan to get fat tires plan on spending some major cash. there isn't too much of a selection above 295's but i think 315's are the only way to go on the back of the bullitt. if you dont go bigger than 295's i recomend nitto 555's. great tire. i wish they made them bigger. I have 17 inch wheels by the way. i have heard lots of good things about the tri-ax shifter but i have a pro-5.0 shifter and i love it. not everyone likes the feel to it but its a good shifter. It does what it is supposed to do extremely well in my opinion. and if you do any suspension mods i recomend H&R super sports.

77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
My car is my every day driver. I might go few times to the drag strip every summer.
I want the B too look even better than it already does, hence a 18". I want also to be able to hang in with the STI´s and the EVO´s everybody got here and beat other mustang gt´s.

my number one priority is new tires. The old ones are crap. so tires 265/35/18 and
295/35/18 I was thinking about with antarchite 9" and 10".

ok if I get LT, will I then have to get new x/h-pipe? Can I not just use my old one?

Should I get tuner(diablo etc etc.) before LT or CAI? and should I get Diablo rather than sct?

I am getting myself a shifter (tri ax/pro 5.0).

I can not have o/r - pipe here, but are x/h-pipes w/cats worth it?

About dyno tune what will I gain from that and is it nessasery?

What I was thinking what I should get first to the last, please tell me your opinion.
I have gears

1) tires
2) wheels
3) LT
4) CAI
5) short throw shifter
6) tuner

any other order or should I forget the LT?

thanks alot folks

4,271 Posts
Check my sig. Here is the order I followed:

1. MRT's CAI
2. MRT SS H-pipe and SS Max Thunder exhausts with brushed rolled tips ($$$)
3. Tires/Wheels ($$$...went with Chrome Bullitt 18x9s on front (275/35ZR-18s), and DD 18x10s on rear (295/35ZR-18s)....Toyo T1R Proxes
4. MRT Street Performance Springs, CC plates, Lower Adjustable Control Arms
5. MRT Short throw Shifter
6. Ford Performance 3.73 Gears...Oct '07
7. Tuner...Spring of '08

798 Posts
Here is what I have so far:

BBK ceramic coated LT's
Dr. Gas o/r x-pipe
Bassani catback
MGW short shifter (shifts like butter)

I had my CAI, LT's, and x-pipe all installed at the same time and then bought an SCT Xcal2 tuner and had a 93 octane tune put on my car. It made a world of difference on my car.

BTW, your stock h-pipe won't work with LT's...

152 Posts
It is always said to get the bolt on things first then go and get a tuner so that all the bolt on parts can be accounted for and thus tuned for. If you get any bolt ons after you re-flash you computer with a tuner, it could actualy hurt your rwhp output.
Long tubes are great, they have a great sound, good broad hp/tq curve,and are effective at what they do... IF you have a power adder, or are going to get a power adder. Not to say that they wont give you an increase in HP/TQ, but with out the power adder they are just not an effective HP gain for the money spent and not to mention that they are a pain in the ass they to install. My suggestiong is to go with equal lenght or shorty headers. And don't skimp out on the ceramic coating either, it is worth the cost.
When it comes to the CAI, the JLT comes highly recomended, besides it is installed in the fender well (great cold air source) and the tube is High grade plastic ( highly heat resistant, and good at dissapating heat to)and it can be painted to match your car!
I'm not sure on the short throw.
But if you have a shop that does dyno tunning (localy or withing driving distance), it is MY recomendation to get a tunner (be it SCT, Hypertech or Preditor) that THEY have software for. It dosen't make any sence to buy a tunner and not be able to get the most RWHP/RWTQ out of your car from the local shop because you don't have the tunner that they have the software for. Thats my opinion any way.
Great to have you on the Bullitt Team!!

64 Posts
I don't post here often, but I've tried dang near every bolt-on, suspension combo, and engine (currently on #4) before finally figuring out what I like. This progression involved lots of time and lots of money. If I had to do it over again, these are the mods I'd go with....which sounds like what you are looking for as well.

1. Wheels/tires - I put this first only because you've made up your mind on these already.

2. aftermarket shifter (steeda, pro 5.0 ...) - Huge difference over stock.

3. 4.10 gears - Best mod I've ever done. I daily drive mine and still get over 21mpg (with current combo making 540+rwhp).

4. Diablosport predator (or SCT). Using this handheld you will be able to correct your speedo for the gears and pick up a noticable boost in midrange power. Btw, there is no need for you to get a custom dyno-tune for the mods you're looking at.

5. Aftermarket "welded in" subframe connectors ! It's hard to convey what a difference this made in overall handling.

Personally, I wish I would have stopped there. The above mentioned mods will give you the most noticable change. However, if you still have cash to spend, then read on...

These are in no particular order...

6. CAI - Most are decent, JLT is a very nice unit. Just make sure it draws from the fender for your application.

7. Catback exhaust - nominal power gains, but mainly done for the sound. Our stock catback is better than average, sot the choice is yours. If you get this, save your stock tips and have em welded back on!

8. Long tube headers (BBK) - These were one of my first mods, and actually give a noticable boost in power, but if this is your first time installing them, they can be tricky... BBK LT's with our stock catback makes for a very nice exhaust tone...I wish I still had my stock catback. Also, like mentioned earlier, you will need a new catted H or X pipe with the LT's due to the length difference over the stock exhaust manifolds. Unless you're creative with a torch, there's no way to easily use your stock midpipe.

9. Lowering springs - I went with H&R sportlines at one time...I liked em.

10. Bilstien shocks/struts - nice units, but spendy.

11. Aftermarket brake pads and stainless steel brake lines - Our cars are blessed with fantastic calipers from the factory, but the brake shoes leave much to be desired. After swapping out to a good aftermarket set, you'll instantly notice that you stop quicker and clean your wheels less (horrible dust from the stockers).

12. Exterior mods - These are subjective, but I went with the grill delete kit and antenna delete. These two minor mods really clean up the outside looks without going overboard (in my opinion).

That's about it. If I could go back in time 6 years and kick myself, my car would have mods 1-5 and 12 and that's about it....

DHG Bullitt #4681 545rwhp/540tq stock sun-visors

90 Posts
I'm some where in the same stage right now... with the exception of the cash flow. But I do have a few upgrades in mind... gear's, o/r h-pipe and CIA, I already have the predator. And not to mention that my bullitt's suspension and shifter were modded by Kenny Brown, so I'm ok on that department.

Thansk for all the info!!

BTW, I do have one question about gears... my bullitt is my daily driver unfortunately. And my main concern is the gear's.... I can't decide if 4.10's or 3.73's??? Can anyone give me your input? I keep hearing a lil from both sides. But I just want to make the best decision w/o regrets!!

1,004 Posts
I think HPBTmatch has it right.
1:wheel/tires Toyo also makes a good pretty cheap big tire.
2:shifter (don't forget about MGW's shifter)
3:Gears:I went with 4.10s on my daily driver and have no regrets (I love it!!)

I think LTs are worth the effort (even on a NA car, but it is a significant investment of $$ and time). You probably will not see a whole lot of return from a CAI, but it doesn't cost much and is easy to install so overall why not go for it. A good handheld tuner or dyno tune after these mods will maximize performance and allow for you to correct for different tire sizes. Although a 295/35/18 tire is just a fraction bigger than stock tire height so does not mess up the speedo much.

70 Posts
Check out, they have the Sumitomo HTR Z (315/35/17) in stock for $98 each. They just started making them again from what I hear.


591 Posts
MGW does have the best shifter. Their design is completely different than any of the others (which are all similar). It provides the same or shorter shifts than the other aftermarket units and eliminates all of the transmission noise associated with the other aftermarket shifters. I have had the steada tri-ax on the bullitt since I bought it new, and I went with the MGW on my '92 coupe when I bought it in 2005. The MGW is a much better piece.

Sounds like you are on the right track with your other mods.

And one more thing, I used 315-35-17 nitto drag radials on my Bullitt for about a year when it was still my daily driver. It actually worked really well. They do wear out faster than regular street tires (you'll get 12,000 - 15,000 miles out of them). But the traction advantage is HUGE! If you are driving it in the winter on snow/ice you may not want to go this route.
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